Double vents question

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Stu, Sep 25, 2003.

  1. Stu

    Stu Senior member

    Messages:
    2,351
    Likes Received:
    12
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2002
    Location:
    Princeton
    I have a new Canali houndstooth sport coat that I took to the tailor for alterations. I always find sport coats and suit jackets too long, by about 1 inch. I like to have them shortened so that they arrive to my middle knuckle. They usually come almost to the fingertip when I buy them, and that is too long for my tastes.

    This coat is double-vented and my tailor blanched when I asked him to shorten it. He said the double vents would look funny if he shortened the coat because the vent openings won't be long enough.

    I told him to go ahead and shorten it. I figure I would rather have the coat be the right length and the vents an inch shorter than have nice long flapping vents and a too-long coat. One of the things to be said for bespoke, I guess.
     


  2. DandySF

    DandySF Senior member

    Messages:
    853
    Likes Received:
    34
    Joined:
    Sep 24, 2003
    Location:
    San Francisco
    I imagine you're looking for feedback on your decision to shorten the length of the coat. A coat that extends to the fingertips always looks too long, to my eye. However, shortening the length of the coat will change its overall proportions. For instance, the distance between the top button of the jacket and the bottom of the coat will be somewhat reduced. Your alteration should be fine just as long as it doesn't throw the proportions off. The length of the vents does not seem so critical to me. More important is whether the vents will lie perfectly flat and prevent any of the inner lining from peaking into view.
     


  3. Stu

    Stu Senior member

    Messages:
    2,351
    Likes Received:
    12
    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2002
    Location:
    Princeton
    Thanks. Yeah, I realized later that I never actually asked a question. I was looking for feedback, and thanks for providing some. I'm OK with changing the proportion and have done it with other coats and it's not a big deal.
     


  4. matadorpoeta

    matadorpoeta Senior member

    Messages:
    4,458
    Likes Received:
    1
    Joined:
    Jul 28, 2003
    stu,
    i'm straying off the subject but i've never judged a jacket's length according to how it lines up with my hands. i know many people do this, but to me the most important issue is whether or not the thing covers my rear. if it does, then its long enough. i'm not concerned with it being too long because i don't want to throw off the proprtions intended by the patternmaker. if you shorten a coat, the distance from the pockets to the bottom hem will also be shortened, etc... why not just try a shorter size? i know a guy who's 5'10'' and wears a 42 short because he likes the look. this may be for you.
     


  5. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

    Messages:
    3,903
    Likes Received:
    1,910
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2002
    Location:
    Northern VA, USA
    i had a similar problem with Oxxford jackets, which are cut a little longer in the gibbons model. I'm 5'10, so I can be between 42R and 42S most of the time....I like to have a shorter jacket in sportcoats, to make sure my legs don't look even shorter than they are. i had a tailor suggest shortening a jacket once, but i really think it will throw off the 'fulcrum' provided by the button-stance, which the designers intended.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by