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Double-stitching + Fresco = Disaster?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Mar 16, 2011.

  1. mth

    mth Well-Known Member

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    Hmm, that's right. I dunno. They seem to sometimes assert "rules" that aren't very consistent. They insisted on putting same-color lining in my sleeves rather than the regular striped stuff because they "always" use same-color lining when working with hopsack. Of course, that's patently not true as well.

    Ah, Italians.


    The tailor in question has made a spring/summer house fresco coat for me with patch pockets and double stitching. I do admit though, because my coat is a mini houndstooth the double stitching does look a little odd at times. I wouldn't recommend it with a heavily patterned cloth.
     
  2. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I have a Rubinacci RTW jacket which I though was linen at first, but the tag says 100% wool. It's a very loose weave and much softer and pliable than Fresco. Probably just for jackets, but thought I'd mention it. I thought it might be a R house specialty fabric. I'm sure double stitching would be fine on it.

    Also, don't freak out that it's a very anti-CBD shade of coral. Probably comes in other colors.

    [​IMG]
     
  3. kcc

    kcc Senior member

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    Seems they're offering MTM now.
     
  4. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    The one fresco jacket I have has it, machine stitched like Slewfoot's.
    For good reason. The lightest Minnis fresco wears very poorly by comparision. The heavier range is a lot better but is too heavy for really hot weather...
    Interesting. By "wears poorly" do you mean isn't as durable?

    I ordered a suit in light gray Crispaire yesterday, because the H&S was a little bit heavier, I think. But due entirely to your previous posts preferring Minnis though, I have been second guessing myself.
     
  5. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I hangs more limply, wrinkels more easily, and doesn't hold a crease. It's marvelously cool though.
     
  6. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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    Am I the only person who doesn't like swelled edges? It seems quite popular around these parts, but I can't imagine ordering something with it. Patch pockets, which I quite like, are informal enough for me. The double stitching just sticks out too much for my taste.
     
  7. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    I hangs more limply, wrinkels more easily, and doesn't hold a crease. It's marvelously cool though.

    Which is why at some point I plan on making it up as a 3-piece suit. I have a length of the 0500 light-medium gray. The coolness outweighs the negative for me. Nothing's ever going to be even near perfect in NYC summers, but I just want it to be wearable.

    Am I the only person who doesn't like swelled edges? It seems quite popular around these parts, but I can't imagine ordering something with it. Patch pockets, which I quite like, are informal enough for me. The double stitching just sticks out too much for my taste.

    I like them on tweeds more than potential suiting fabrics.
     
  8. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Am I the only person who doesn't like swelled edges? It seems quite popular around these parts, but I can't imagine ordering something with it. Patch pockets, which I quite like, are informal enough for me. The double stitching just sticks out too much for my taste.

    Yes. You may go now. There's the door.
     
  9. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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    Yes. You may go now. There's the door.

    Can you at least provide airfare to NK?
     
  10. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Can you at least provide airfare to NK?

    You're a federal employee. You can afford it.
     
  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Am I the only person who doesn't like swelled edges? It seems quite popular around these parts, but I can't imagine ordering something with it. Patch pockets, which I quite like, are informal enough for me. The double stitching just sticks out too much for my taste.

    For what it's worth, Rubinacci does not swell the edges when double-stitching is employed.

    But patch pockets without double-stitching? That's blasphemous.
     
  12. Manton

    Manton Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A double stitch tends to swell the gap in between whether you are aiming for that or not, especially at the edges, where it highlights the tape.
     
  13. mafoofan

    mafoofan Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    A double stitch tends to swell the gap in between whether you are aiming for that or not, especially at the edges, where it highlights the tape.

    I don't know how they do things internally--just that my edges ain't 'swelled'.
     
  14. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Double stitching is a swell idea!
     
  15. zalb916

    zalb916 Senior member

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    To me, double-stitching brings attention to the stitching in the same manner that very visible pick stitching brings attention to the stitching. It just feels a bit try hard to me, as if you're trying to bring attention to the uniqueness of the stitching. I understand that's not the intent of the stitching. It's just how it comes across to me.
     
  16. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mr. Mafoo,
    Being an avid reader of the Styleforum, there are a couple things I have learned just this very week that may assist you in your situation. You may be dealing with a "stubborn tailor" or your request may have been "lost in translation". Hope this is helpful.
     
  17. emptym

    emptym Senior member Moderator

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    I hangs more limply, wrinkels more easily, and doesn't hold a crease. It's marvelously cool though.
    Thank you. Have you had anything made in the Crispaire? Dopey posted once that it wears very well in the sense that the Minnis seems to wear poorly.
    Which is why at some point I plan on making it up as a 3-piece suit. I have a length of the 0500 light-medium gray. The coolness outweighs the negative for me. Nothing's ever going to be even near perfect in NYC summers, but I just want it to be wearable.
    You had something made in Crispaire, didn't you D? Would you mind comparing the fabrics for me?
    To me, double-stitching brings attention to the stitching in the same manner that very visible pick stitching brings attention to the stitching. It just feels a bit try hard to me, as if you're trying to bring attention to the uniqueness of the stitching. I understand that's not the intent of the stitching. It's just how it comes across to me.
    To me, the double stitching seems like reinforcement and therefore rugged.
     
  18. Mr Herbert

    Mr Herbert Senior member

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    slewfoot, im struggling to figure out the point of a 3 peice fresco? unless you want it to be a 3 season suit?
     
  19. Mr Herbert

    Mr Herbert Senior member

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    To me, the double stitching seems like reinforcement and therefore rugged.

    which is why i only like it on odd jackets for winter. and i only get patches on odd jackets - although its not a rule i refuse to break in the future.

    foo could overcome his problem by not having patches?
     
  20. maomao1980

    maomao1980 Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Your tailor is being lazy.
     

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