Double-stitching + Fresco = Disaster?

[TheFoo]

My tailor is advising me against double-stitching on a fresco suit (which would include patch pockets) because the open weave of the cloth makes the stitching look highly irregular. The thread will sometimes goes through open holes, sometimes split the cloth threads.

Has anyone had issues with this before? Any examples of double-stitching on fresco?

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

My tailor is advising me against double-stitching on a fresco suit (which would include patch pockets) because the open weave of the cloth makes the stitching look highly irregular. Has anyone had issues with this before? Any examples of double-stitching on fresco?

I have one, looks fine with me, the tailor didn't raise any objection. But if yours does, do what he says.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Manton

But if yours does, do what he says.

Sigh, that would be the wisest course of action. It just makes me sad because I envisioned doing all my summer suits with patch pockets, which won't look right without double-stitching.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Sigh, that would be the wisest course of action. It just makes me sad because I envisioned doing all my summer suits with patch pockets, which won't look right without double-stitching.

Go ahead and tell them to do it. Chances are they will just do what they want anyway.

I don't know why this is but on mine the second stitch is more visible on the edges than on the pockets. It's hard to see the latter.

 

[Slewfoot]

When you say double-stitching do you mean swelled edges along the pockets and lapels and then pick-stitching along both sides of the swell?

 

[Blackhood]

I'm not a bespoke regular, but if you have a good relationship with your tailor coulnd't you ask him to single stich a small peice of cloth and then double and compare the outcome? You could use it as a pocket square for the GQ-2008 look?

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

When you say double-stitching do you mean swelled edges along the pockets and lapels and then pick-stitching along both sides of the swell?

Yes.

 

[TheFoo]

Maybe I'll just ask them to do it anyway. I want patch pockets.

My real trouble is coming up with a cloth that will pass muster in a business evironment, but is as summery and sporty as possible. I hate tropical worsteds--to slick and smooth. Love linen, but I think it would be far too casual for my purposes. Don't like solaro. Don't like cotton. Does that leave just fresco?

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Maybe I'll just ask them to do it anyway. I want patch pockets.

My real trouble is coming up with a cloth that will pass muster in a business evironment, but is as summery and sporty as possible. I hate tropical worsteds--to slick and smooth. Love linen, but I think it would be far too casual for my purposes. Don't like solaro. Don't like cotton. Does that leave just fresco?

Yes.

You should at least look at tropical worsted. It's no slicker or smoother than any other worsted and some of it is a lot drier.

 

[Slewfoot]

Here's a photo of a Minnis Fresco I have in wheat. Clearly done by machine, but it doesn't seem irregular to my eye.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Manton

Yes.

You should at least look at tropical worsted. It's no slicker or smoother than any other worsted and some of it is a lot drier.

I've never seen a tropical worsted I like, including the much vaunted Lesser variety.

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

Here's a photo of a Minnis Fresco I have in wheat. Clearly done by machine, but it doesn't seem irregular to my eye.

Yeah, that looks fine to me. I think my tailor does double-stitching by hand--not that I can fathom why that would make a difference in this case.

 

[TRINI]

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

Here's a photo of a Minnis Fresco I have in wheat. Clearly done by machine, but it doesn't seem irregular to my eye.

David - full length shot of this suit/jacket?

 

[Manton]

To call the Lesser "slick" is an indication that you didn't really look at it. It's about the driest worsted out there, of any weight.

 

[whnay.]

Originally Posted by mafoofan

Sigh, that would be the wisest course of action. It just makes me sad because I envisioned doing all my summer suits with patch pockets, which won't look right without double-stitching.

??? Mine has the double.

 

[TheFoo]

Originally Posted by Manton

To call the Lesser "slick" is an indication that you didn't really look at it. It's about the driest worsted out there, of any weight.

I didn't say it was slick. I said tropical worsteds in general are too slick for what I want in a summer suit.

I don't like Lesser's tropical worsteds because I don't want a smooth, fine worsted--not because it is any more or less slick than others. I only mentioned them because they are held in such high regard.