Double-stitching + Fresco = Disaster?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Mar 16, 2011.

  1. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    My tailor is advising me against double-stitching on a fresco suit (which would include patch pockets) because the open weave of the cloth makes the stitching look highly irregular. The thread will sometimes goes through open holes, sometimes split the cloth threads.

    Has anyone had issues with this before? Any examples of double-stitching on fresco?
     


  2. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    My tailor is advising me against double-stitching on a fresco suit (which would include patch pockets) because the open weave of the cloth makes the stitching look highly irregular. Has anyone had issues with this before? Any examples of double-stitching on fresco?

    I have one, looks fine with me, the tailor didn't raise any objection. But if yours does, do what he says.
     


  3. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    But if yours does, do what he says.

    Sigh, that would be the wisest course of action. It just makes me sad because I envisioned doing all my summer suits with patch pockets, which won't look right without double-stitching.
     


  4. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Sigh, that would be the wisest course of action. It just makes me sad because I envisioned doing all my summer suits with patch pockets, which won't look right without double-stitching.

    Go ahead and tell them to do it. Chances are they will just do what they want anyway.

    I don't know why this is but on mine the second stitch is more visible on the edges than on the pockets. It's hard to see the latter.
     


  5. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    When you say double-stitching do you mean swelled edges along the pockets and lapels and then pick-stitching along both sides of the swell?
     


  6. Blackhood

    Blackhood Senior member

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    I'm not a bespoke regular, but if you have a good relationship with your tailor coulnd't you ask him to single stich a small peice of cloth and then double and compare the outcome? You could use it as a pocket square for the GQ-2008 look?
     


  7. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    When you say double-stitching do you mean swelled edges along the pockets and lapels and then pick-stitching along both sides of the swell?

    Yes.
     


  8. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Maybe I'll just ask them to do it anyway. I want patch pockets.

    My real trouble is coming up with a cloth that will pass muster in a business evironment, but is as summery and sporty as possible. I hate tropical worsteds--to slick and smooth. Love linen, but I think it would be far too casual for my purposes. Don't like solaro. Don't like cotton. Does that leave just fresco?
     


  9. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    Maybe I'll just ask them to do it anyway. I want patch pockets.

    My real trouble is coming up with a cloth that will pass muster in a business evironment, but is as summery and sporty as possible. I hate tropical worsteds--to slick and smooth. Love linen, but I think it would be far too casual for my purposes. Don't like solaro. Don't like cotton. Does that leave just fresco?


    Yes.

    You should at least look at tropical worsted. It's no slicker or smoother than any other worsted and some of it is a lot drier.
     


  10. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Here's a photo of a Minnis Fresco I have in wheat. Clearly done by machine, but it doesn't seem irregular to my eye.

    [​IMG]
     


  11. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Yes.

    You should at least look at tropical worsted. It's no slicker or smoother than any other worsted and some of it is a lot drier.


    I've never seen a tropical worsted I like, including the much vaunted Lesser variety.

    Here's a photo of a Minnis Fresco I have in wheat. Clearly done by machine, but it doesn't seem irregular to my eye.

    [​IMG]


    Yeah, that looks fine to me. I think my tailor does double-stitching by hand--not that I can fathom why that would make a difference in this case.
     


  12. TRINI

    TRINI Senior member

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    Here's a photo of a Minnis Fresco I have in wheat. Clearly done by machine, but it doesn't seem irregular to my eye.

    [​IMG]


    David - full length shot of this suit/jacket?
     


  13. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    To call the Lesser "slick" is an indication that you didn't really look at it. It's about the driest worsted out there, of any weight.
     


  14. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Sigh, that would be the wisest course of action. It just makes me sad because I envisioned doing all my summer suits with patch pockets, which won't look right without double-stitching.

    ??? Mine has the double.
     


  15. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    To call the Lesser "slick" is an indication that you didn't really look at it. It's about the driest worsted out there, of any weight.

    I didn't say it was slick. I said tropical worsteds in general are too slick for what I want in a summer suit.

    I don't like Lesser's tropical worsteds because I don't want a smooth, fine worsted--not because it is any more or less slick than others. I only mentioned them because they are held in such high regard.
     


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