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Double reverse pleats to flat fronts

cbbuff

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Originally Posted by rs232
Wrong. And they say blokes have spatial intelligence!

You want your pleat edges to end up at a certain location at the waistband. If you flip the pleat over, it will be way too far to one side. Lets say you have a pair with single forward pleats. The extra needs to come from the fly side. However, the crease has to stay in the same place relative to the waistband on the altered trousers. Therefore, the steps are:

Unpick the waistband.
Unpick the fly construction.
Recut the front at the fly.
Possibly recut the front fork, depending on how much room you want to remove.
Sew it all up again. I.e. redo all the original work

But if you have a pair with double pleats, then you have another pleat on the other side of the crease! Therefore, you also need to:

Unpick the outside seam and pocket,
Recut the outside edge,
Put the pocket back in
Put the waist band back on.

If I had to do it, it would take me a whole day, because you have to undo the work, and then redo it all. Seriously, if you're ever in doubt as to how much time an alteration will take, attempt it yourself, and you'll understand the cost.


If $90 will make the suit one that you like, do it before your tailor reads this post and raises your price.l
 

k4lnamja

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Originally Posted by DandySF
I've come to the conclusion that certain alterations simply aren't worth the cost. I'd rather purchase something new than try to renovate something old.

sigh. I'm regretting this purchase now.

Originally Posted by cbbuff
If $90 will make the suit one that you like, do it before your tailor reads this post and raises your price.l

90 is ver pricey compared to the $30 I thought it would be. Unfortu
ately, I've already altered the jacket so I've to go all in. Thanks again.

Now I've to decide do I go to the best tailor in LA and pay 175 or do I go to a good but recommended by a few SF members that will charge me 90?!

Cheers
 

Despos

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Originally Posted by Matt S
The trousers are cut differently. With reverse pleat the trousers the extra fabric is taken from the back. With forward pleats the extra fabric is taken from the front. Pleats cannot effectively change direction. The grain will be off and the trousers won't hang properly. I've tried converting reverse pleats to forward pleats and couldn't get it to work properly.

Converting reverse to regular pleats is a different issue than removing pleats, what you are saying about removing pleats is not true.
 

JTA

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Originally Posted by DandySF
I've come to the conclusion that certain alterations simply aren't worth the cost. I'd rather purchase something new than try to renovate something old.

Originally Posted by Despos
Converting reverse to regular pleats is a different issue than removing pleats, what you are saying about removing pleats is not true.

These are sound advices. Bottom line, better buy flat front trousers.
 

Jermyn

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To echo what others are saying: this is quite a difficult operation.

My tailor has said that he can do this but that it not only involves unpicking the waistband but also creating new pockets, as they are moved by the procedure as well.

Make sure that the cheap option doesn't leave your pockets out of alignment.

Ultimately I had the seat taken in and the legs narrowed, whilst keeping the forward pleats. This definitely made the trousers less 'extreme'. The suit in question is a staple navy RLPL (Chester Barrie).
 

Kiwi Man

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Originally Posted by DandySF
I've come to the conclusion that certain alterations simply aren't worth the cost. I'd rather purchase something new than try to renovate something old.

Great idea.

I wouldn't do it unless it is something that you are absolutely love!
 

k4lnamja

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Do I love the suit? No

Do I like it a lot? Yes.

I want to wear it but I won't be enthusiastic w the dbl fwd pleats. If I don't alter them to flats then I'd probably wouldn't wear the suit at all. Argh. I'm such an idiot.
 

Matt S

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Originally Posted by rs232
Wrong. And they say blokes have spatial intelligence!

You want your pleat edges to end up at a certain location at the waistband. If you flip the pleat over, it will be way too far to one side. Lets say you have a pair with single forward pleats. The extra needs to come from the fly side. However, the crease has to stay in the same place relative to the waistband on the altered trousers. Therefore, the steps are:

Unpick the waistband.
Unpick the fly construction.
Recut the front at the fly.
Possibly recut the front fork, depending on how much room you want to remove.
Sew it all up again. I.e. redo all the original work

But if you have a pair with double pleats, then you have another pleat on the other side of the crease! Therefore, you also need to:

Unpick the outside seam and pocket,
Recut the outside edge,
Put the pocket back in
Put the waist band back on.

If I had to do it, it would take me a whole day, because you have to undo the work, and then redo it all. Seriously, if you're ever in doubt as to how much time an alteration will take, attempt it yourself, and you'll understand the cost.


This is what I tried to write, but you explain it much better. I believe this is consistent from what I read from atailor on AAAC a few years ago. But Despos disagrees. I'm not a tailor, but from examining patterns it shows that forward pleats and reverse pleats are cut differently, and this is consistent from what I've seen. I love forward pleats so I'd never consider reversing them or removing them.
 

k4lnamja

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I decided to take my double forward pleated pants to the RL store in beverly hills. My tailor quoted me $100, Wilshire Tailors quoted me $175, and RL quoted me $75 but both sounded apprehensive in doing it. I probably would be to as they are essentially re-cutting the suit.

Anyway. I hope the RL store does its job and makes them look good. I can't justify paying $75 to alter one thing on a clothing item, however, I've already invested X $'s into it. If I put it up on B&S or ebay I think the most I would get for a RL Blue Label would be $100 at most.

ffffuuuu.gif
 

TheEdwardian

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Originally Posted by Despos
Converting reverse to regular pleats is a different issue than removing pleats, what you are saying about removing pleats is not true.
If it doesn't violate the tailors' code, I would be interested to hear from one of our most respected members what the feasibility of the various forms of pleat conversion are, and the relative costs ought to be. Can't say i'd do it myself; I'm far to risk averse to spend a bit of cash on something where the alterations would cost more than the original purchase when I'm not knowledgable enough to know if i'd appreciate the final result.
 

a tailor

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for an explanation with illustrations. go to advanced search function on ask andy.
ask for "removing trouser pleats" dated 5-16-05.
 

Despos

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Removing pleats isn't so challenging and doesn't require the skill of working on sleeves or collars or shoulders of a jacket. You do have to remake or move the front pockets. Have to find a tailor who wants to do the job. Cost will vary.

Changing regular pleats to reverse and vice versa changes the crease from being straight on the grain line of the cloth to being on the bias.
 

a tailor

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for an explanation with illustrations. go to advanced search function on ask andy.
ask for "removing trouser pleats" dated 5-16-05.
 

comrade

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Originally Posted by k4lnamja
cost $175!!

Does this seem a little high? My tailor said he would not do it, plus I wouldn't trust him with my higher end items. However, I was quoted by a very well-known and popular LA based tailor and he said $175.

Does this sound normal? I love RL suits but now I'm considering never buying them again if it's going to cost this much.

Opinions please.

Cheers


More than I little high. I had it done three years ago and it was much less. I forget
the exact price. I also live in a very high-price area.
 

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