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Double reverse pleats to flat fronts

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by k4lnamja, Feb 22, 2011.

  1. k4lnamja

    k4lnamja Senior member

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    cost $175!!

    Does this seem a little high? My tailor said he would not do it, plus I wouldn't trust him with my higher end items. However, I was quoted by a very well-known and popular LA based tailor and he said $175.

    Does this sound normal? I love RL suits but now I'm considering never buying them again if it's going to cost this much.

    Opinions please.

    Cheers
     
  2. rebel222

    rebel222 Senior member

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    Polo Ralph Lauren makes suits without pleats. Buy those instead.
     
  3. k4lnamja

    k4lnamja Senior member

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    I've never seen them before [​IMG]
     
  4. ter1413

    ter1413 Senior member

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  5. EBugatti

    EBugatti Senior member

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    WAY too high!

    +1. Should cost around $75-$80 max. And it's readily done--I don't know why a tailor would refuse to do it.
     
  6. GusW

    GusW Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Has a week gone by already? This topic again?

    Answer don't do it, buy FF pants.
     
  7. k4lnamja

    k4lnamja Senior member

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    WAY too high!

    My thoughts exactly.

    +1. Should cost around $75-$80 max. And it's readily done--I don't know why a tailor would refuse to do it.

    Well, I spoke to another tailor and he said $90. Maybe LA prices are abnormally high?!

    Has a week gone by already? This topic again?

    Answer don't do it, buy FF pants.


    Sorry if this topic came up. I didnt see the other and yes, I should've purchased FF's.

    [​IMG]
     
  8. SirGrotius

    SirGrotius Senior member

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    Wow, sounds really high.

    FF or die.
     
  9. Matt S

    Matt S Senior member

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    If the trousers are from Polo Ralph Lauren or Purple Label, the pleats would be forward pleats, not reverse pleats, which are much harder to convert to flat front. Reverse pleats are the standard pleats most other brands sell and are much easier to convert to flat front. That would typically cost $50. Which direction do the pleats face?
     
  10. Benjamin E.

    Benjamin E. Well-Known Member

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    If the trousers are from Polo Ralph Lauren or Purple Label, the pleats would be forward pleats, not reverse pleats, which are much harder to convert to flat front. Reverse pleats are the standard pleats most other brands sell and are much easier to convert to flat front. That would typically cost $50. Which direction do the pleats face?

    Why would forward pleats be harder? The direction of the pleat can easily be changed and thus its direction shouldn't have any bearing on the difficulty of this operation. If you mean that it's harder to bring oneself to ruin a pair of forward pleated pants like that, then I'm in total agreement.
     
  11. k4lnamja

    k4lnamja Senior member

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    If the trousers are from Polo Ralph Lauren or Purple Label, the pleats would be forward pleats, not reverse pleats, which are much harder to convert to flat front. Reverse pleats are the standard pleats most other brands sell and are much easier to convert to flat front. That would typically cost $50. Which direction do the pleats face?

    My apologies as I confused fwd vs reverse. My pleats point forward therefore double fwd pleats. I hope it costs less than 50 but if it doesn't then Im going to kick myselffir thinking the conversion was supposed to be "economical." lol

    thank you

    cheers
     
  12. CYstyle

    CYstyle Senior member

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    Removing forward pleats is quite a bit of work. It requires him to recut the pants, so removing the waistband, creating a new pattern, it could take a good tailor 3+ hours to do
     
  13. Matt S

    Matt S Senior member

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    Why would forward pleats be harder? The direction of the pleat can easily be changed and thus its direction shouldn't have any bearing on the difficulty of this operation. If you mean that it's harder to bring oneself to ruin a pair of forward pleated pants like that, then I'm in total agreement.
    The trousers are cut differently. With reverse pleat the trousers the extra fabric is taken from the back. With forward pleats the extra fabric is taken from the front. Pleats cannot effectively change direction. The grain will be off and the trousers won't hang properly. I've tried converting reverse pleats to forward pleats and couldn't get it to work properly.
     
  14. rs232

    rs232 Senior member

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    Why would forward pleats be harder? The direction of the pleat can easily be changed and thus its direction shouldn't have any bearing on the difficulty of this operation. If you mean that it's harder to bring oneself to ruin a pair of forward pleated pants like that, then I'm in total agreement.
    Wrong. And they say blokes have spatial intelligence! You want your pleat edges to end up at a certain location at the waistband. If you flip the pleat over, it will be way too far to one side. Lets say you have a pair with single forward pleats. The extra needs to come from the fly side. However, the crease has to stay in the same place relative to the waistband on the altered trousers. Therefore, the steps are: Unpick the waistband. Unpick the fly construction. Recut the front at the fly. Possibly recut the front fork, depending on how much room you want to remove. Sew it all up again. I.e. redo all the original work But if you have a pair with double pleats, then you have another pleat on the other side of the crease! Therefore, you also need to: Unpick the outside seam and pocket, Recut the outside edge, Put the pocket back in Put the waist band back on. If I had to do it, it would take me a whole day, because you have to undo the work, and then redo it all. Seriously, if you're ever in doubt as to how much time an alteration will take, attempt it yourself, and you'll understand the cost.
     
  15. DandySF

    DandySF Senior member

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    I've come to the conclusion that certain alterations simply aren't worth the cost. I'd rather purchase something new than try to renovate something old.
     
  16. cbbuff

    cbbuff Senior member

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    Wrong. And they say blokes have spatial intelligence!

    You want your pleat edges to end up at a certain location at the waistband. If you flip the pleat over, it will be way too far to one side. Lets say you have a pair with single forward pleats. The extra needs to come from the fly side. However, the crease has to stay in the same place relative to the waistband on the altered trousers. Therefore, the steps are:

    Unpick the waistband.
    Unpick the fly construction.
    Recut the front at the fly.
    Possibly recut the front fork, depending on how much room you want to remove.
    Sew it all up again. I.e. redo all the original work

    But if you have a pair with double pleats, then you have another pleat on the other side of the crease! Therefore, you also need to:

    Unpick the outside seam and pocket,
    Recut the outside edge,
    Put the pocket back in
    Put the waist band back on.

    If I had to do it, it would take me a whole day, because you have to undo the work, and then redo it all. Seriously, if you're ever in doubt as to how much time an alteration will take, attempt it yourself, and you'll understand the cost.


    If $90 will make the suit one that you like, do it before your tailor reads this post and raises your price.l
     
  17. k4lnamja

    k4lnamja Senior member

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    I've come to the conclusion that certain alterations simply aren't worth the cost. I'd rather purchase something new than try to renovate something old.

    sigh. I'm regretting this purchase now.

    If $90 will make the suit one that you like, do it before your tailor reads this post and raises your price.l

    90 is ver pricey compared to the $30 I thought it would be. Unfortu
    ately, I've already altered the jacket so I've to go all in. Thanks again.

    Now I've to decide do I go to the best tailor in LA and pay 175 or do I go to a good but recommended by a few SF members that will charge me 90?!

    Cheers
     
  18. NORE

    NORE Senior member

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    Which RL suit is it?
     
  19. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The trousers are cut differently. With reverse pleat the trousers the extra fabric is taken from the back. With forward pleats the extra fabric is taken from the front. Pleats cannot effectively change direction. The grain will be off and the trousers won't hang properly. I've tried converting reverse pleats to forward pleats and couldn't get it to work properly.

    Converting reverse to regular pleats is a different issue than removing pleats, what you are saying about removing pleats is not true.
     
  20. JTA

    JTA Senior member

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    I've come to the conclusion that certain alterations simply aren't worth the cost. I'd rather purchase something new than try to renovate something old.

    Converting reverse to regular pleats is a different issue than removing pleats, what you are saying about removing pleats is not true.

    These are sound advices. Bottom line, better buy flat front trousers.
     

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