Double cuff overlap?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Kent Wang, Apr 25, 2006.

  1. Kent Wang

    Kent Wang Affiliate Vendor Dubiously Honored Affiliate Vendor

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    The way a double cuff folds, should the outside half be slightly longer than the inside half (the half next to your wrist)? The holes in my Jantzen shirt cuffs are cut so that when folded the halves are equal, which sometimes requires some fiddling to make sure that the outside half covers up the inside half completely -- otherwise the exposed inside half is rather unsightly. The Chan shirt that I just tried on today, however, has a slightly longer outside half so that no fiddling is required. I feel that this is optimal. Are there any disadvantages to this arrangement that I have not considered? What is the standard practice amongst RTW and other custom shirtmakers?
     
  2. demeis

    demeis Senior member

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    Yes it should be. All of my better shirts (finamore, loreznini, etc.) have a little more length on the top part. This to not show the sleeve attached to the gauntlet i believe. On some of my cheaper BB shirts they do not do this and both sides are equally as long. It is something i expect from a FC shirt and would not buy one with out it because i find it makes the shirt look a lot better.
     
  3. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

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    Same with my Chan shirts, Kent. No fiddling necessary.
     
  4. Jovan

    Jovan Banned for Good

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    I have a cheap Dillard's shirt ($30, tent-like in fit) that has both the locker loop outside (what the hell is that about?) and needs like five minutes of fiddling to get the cuffs right. I only bought it because I desperately needed a double cuff shirt for an event.
     
  5. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    The way a double cuff folds, should the outside half be slightly longer than the inside half (the half next to your wrist)?

    Absolutely!
     
  6. Alexander Kabbaz

    Alexander Kabbaz Senior member

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    The outside flap of a French, English, or French Hex double cuff should be longer than the inside flap by 1/4". The undercuff (inside flap) should not be exposed where it joins the sleeve. The only exceptions to this absolute are at the upper corners of the English and French Hex cuffs where exposing just a bit of the corner happens due to the design. (See diagram below)

    Additionally, folding cuffs of all types are not rectangles, they are trapezoids. The sides of the cuff should slant outward roughly 1/4". This is because the circumference of the outside flap is greater than the inside flap (think - simple physics) and the additional size is needed to cover the edges of the inside flap.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Margaret

    Margaret Senior member

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    While checking my double-cuffed shirts to make sure they have the appropriate overlap, I uncovered a long-forgotten inexpensive formal shirt with a cuff like this, that gives you two alternative positionings...

    [​IMG]

    my 'better' FC shirts don't have this feature.
     

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