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Double breasted suits

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by The_Foxx, Feb 29, 2004.

  1. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Senior member

    Messages:
    3,902
    Joined:
    Apr 11, 2002
    Location:
    Northern VA, USA
    The topic of DB has come up a few times, thought I'd put my two cents in on the subject. Goes without saying that a "real" double breasted is 6 on 2 buttons, which give the option of which button is fastened....there are many a cheap (and even some well-made older models) suit that are 6 to 1, which always manage to look terrible. I recently bought a wonderful DB in glen plaid, and realized it isn't easy to find this style of suit that looks....just right. Maybe it's button placement, shape of lapels, and the all-important space between the peaked lapel and the collar (as Flusser also points out....Kiton DBs often have a large gap between the lapel and collar, but I'm sure it is intentional). My votes for the top of their game-- Brioni (regardless of model name; shoulder shapes differ but all look great in 6 on 2) and very possibly Sartoria Attolini. With the exception of custom made, not sure Oxxford pulls off the bladed/ slightly extended shoulders like the italians do so well. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws....ry=3001 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws....ry=3001
     
  2. rayk

    rayk Senior member

    Messages:
    167
    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2003
    Location:
    Inferno: Circle 5
    I'm in complete agreement that the proper double-breasted suit ought to be 6 x 2; however, I do posses a couple of MTM suits of the 4 x 1 configuration that are also terrific. I've seen many quality-tailored DB suits, some bespoke, that have a considerable space between the collar and the lapel. This I personally find unattractive.  A kissing collar and lapel on a DB suit screams well made, although I know that many extraordinary suits have been tailored to, some intetionally, emphasize this gap.  Brioni creates a fantastic jacket, and I simply love the few that I have in my wardrobe; but what I lust for, and believe to be the quintessential cut in a jacket, is that of Attonlini.  Who can deny that this cut tastefully and stylishly emphasizes and defines masculinity.  These jackets are, while demanding a slim figure to emphasize their finest qualities, the most attractive available. I'm considering the purchase of a  Sartoria Attolini sports jacket (single-breasted) that I've always desired.  I once saw a photo of David Niven in a similar jacket combined with trousers in winter white, solid colored shirt, and Spitalsfield tie: the effect was stunning. The cut of the Attolini jacket is, hands down, my favorite.
     

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