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double breasted suit: out of style?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by rox, Jan 2, 2007.

  1. rox

    rox Active Member

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    I was considering having a double breasted suit made, since I'm very tall and skinny. However, you don't really see them much these days. The ones I do see seem to be worn by brits. Are they considered out of style?
     
  2. medwards

    medwards Senior member Dubiously Honored

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  3. Leslierc

    Leslierc Senior member

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    No, DBs are still very "dress formal" and much in style.
     
  4. Sator

    Sator Senior member

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    Out of fashion (that's why I wear them) but out of style? - never!
     
  5. Curious_George

    Curious_George Senior member

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    I hope not. But imo, If Brits are still wearing them they're not out of style.
     
  6. Master Shake

    Master Shake Senior member

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    If anything, I thought DBs were making a comeback with the fashion designers and their votaries? Since I am not in that crowd, I'm not sure, nor do I really care. I intend for either my next suit purchase or the one right after to be a double breasted suit.
     
  7. Vintage Gent

    Vintage Gent Senior member

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    If they're out, you wouldn't be able to tell by me. I've hade two made over the past year and a half.
     
  8. Dormouse

    Dormouse Senior member

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    Speaking of, doesn't Humphrey Bogart look great in one?

    [​IMG]

    Courtest of FNB.

    [​IMG]
     
  9. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    Out of fashion (that's why I wear them) but out of style? - never!

    Bingo!
     
  10. Sator

    Sator Senior member

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    If anything, I thought DBs were making a comeback...

    When I was in Rome last autumn I noticed that 1/2 of the coats at the Brioni flagship store were DBs. At the Brioni store in New York during the summer I found not one DB on the rack. I inquired why that might be and was told (by the Italian fellow in the store) that Americans were a bit behind but slowly catching up. He proceeded to go into the storeroom and pull out a couple of rather nice DBs to show me in my size.

    I certainly hope he was wrong. I would have to get some SB coats if everyone started wearing DBs.
     
  11. edmorel

    edmorel Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Speaking of, doesn't Humphrey Bogart look great in one?

    [​IMG]

    Courtest of FNB.

    [​IMG]


    Actually, I don't think Bogey looks great. The length of the jacket is awfully small which becomes more pronounced in light of the tad long sleeves. The length makes the buttons look wrong, almost as if the jacket was shortened by quite a bit. The guy next to him looks good in that coat, although my preference would be to button the bottom button of the 6x2 configuration. The third gentleman looks great although again, I'd only button the bottom button
     
  12. Ed13

    Ed13 Senior member

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    I only have one double breasted suit but I get more compliments on it when worn than any others I have. More db suits to come for me.
     
  13. Dragon

    Dragon Senior member

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    They have always been in style, and it happens to be that they are currently in fashion as well (actually they have been for several seasons now)
     
  14. Jovan

    Jovan Senior member

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    Double breasteds and three piece suits tend to come in and out of fashion, but certainly never out of style.
    Why only the bottom button? I would only button the top myself if I had a 6x2. My only experiment into DBs was a 6x1, however.
     
  15. RoyalTuxedo

    RoyalTuxedo Member

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    As others note here, they're back in fashion of late, if anything. Even non-cutting edge mags like Cigar Aficionado are featuring them in their fashion spreads now, and I've seen them more and more on the bankers and lawyers of downtown Poughkeepsie lately. (Check out the December issue of Cigar Aficionado for the spread I mentioned.)

    cheers,
    RT
     
  16. epa

    epa Senior member

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    Speaking of, doesn't Humphrey Bogart look great in one?

    [​IMG]

    Courtest of FNB.

    [​IMG]

    I do not really follow this "6x2" and "6x1" discussions above, but that may be because I am quite ignorant of sartorial terminology.
    Now, as far as I understand, the DB suits (isn't one an overcoat?) have a 3x2 button arrangement, that is, three rows with two buttons.
    Now, row 1 (counted from the top) appears to be merely decorative. The "functional" buttons appear to be the left-hand ones (from where we look at the photos) in rows 2 and 3 (counted from the top). On SB suits, you only button button 2 (and, maybe, 1). Now, here it looks like the button to button is button 3 (the lowest one) and, maybe, button 2.
    That is, are buttoning rules different for DB suits than for SB suits?
    Please, accept my apologies for my ignorance.
    I am concerned about this matter because I have no DB suits (I hade some cheap ones years ago, with Pierre Cardin labels and with cloth mostly comprising pol---ter, and I also had a really badly fitted woolen one, but I got rid a long time ago, because of their bad fit and quality) and I really like the way DB suits look. Here in Madrid I almost never see DB suits, but I will definitely get one, maybe next autumn. I am tall and (a bit too) slim, so I guess that I am the kind of person they are supposed to fit. Maybe I will get a flannel chalk-stripe one.
     
  17. Nantucket Red

    Nantucket Red Senior member

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    I love the look of DBs. They impart to the wearer a certain gravitas.
     
  18. Sator

    Sator Senior member

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    6x2 means there are 6 buttons and 2 of these are used to close the coat. All of the pictures above are of 6x2 coats (plus one ovecoat).

    6x1 would mean there are 6 buttons and only 1 of these would be used to close the coat. The guy standing next to Bogart has buttoned his overcoat up in a 6x1 fashion. On a true 6x1 coat this would be the only way of buttoning up the coat. This would be unusual and much less common than 4x1 coats.

    4x1 coats have a lower point of closure and a longer lapel.
     
  19. epa

    epa Senior member

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    Thanks, Sator.
    What kind of arrangement (6x2, 6x1, 4x1) is considered to look best on a tall guy?
    Also, in a 6x1 arrangmente, are you always supposed to button the lowest button (like the guy in the overcoat), or could it also be the middle button?
    In a 6x2 button arrangement, could you leave the middle button or the lower button unbuttoned?
    Actually, is there a difference between a 6x1 and 6x2 arrangement, or can the same suit be worn both ways (I mean, like in a 3 button SB suit where you can chose whether to button the top button). Basically, I wonder whether the guy in the overcoat could button the middle button INSTEAD OF the lower button...
     
  20. Sator

    Sator Senior member

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    Thanks, Sator.
    What kind of arrangement (6x2, 6x1, 4x1) is considered to look best on a tall guy?
    Also, in a 6x1 arrangmente, are you always supposed to button the lowest button (like the guy in the overcoat), or could it also be the middle button?
    In a 6x2 button arrangement, could you leave the middle button or the lower button unbuttoned?
    Actually, is there a difference between a 6x1 and 6x2 arrangement, or can the same suit be worn both ways (I mean, like in a 3 button SB suit where you can chose whether to button the top button). Basically, I wonder whether the guy in the overcoat could button the middle button INSTEAD OF the lower button...


    If you are tall and slender then you have the ideal physique for a DB as they have a widening effect.

    The tailor will cut the coat so the lapel length etc are meant to be worn 4x1 or 6x2. I have never seen a 6x1 coat - that would be most odd (I think in the photo you have a 6x2 overcoat where the top button has come undone accidentally). 6x3 was seen in the Edwardian era and is still found on military uniforms. It looks rather columnar - or like a straight up-and-down chimney. Not something I am fond of on a lounge coat.

    6x2 is the safest for all concerned. It is said that 4x1 has an elongating effect due to the longer lapel line. However any benefit is offset by a lower button stance which can drop lower than the altitude of the waist suppression. 6x2 means the button stance and the altitude of waist suppression match. The higher button stance also pushes up the eye level to make you look taller.

    Unlike a SB coat I think it is fine to do up the bottom button on a DB coat. Otherwise the coat flaps around and looks untidy. However, it is also correct to leave the bottom button undone. It is never correct to wear the coat open (except on sitting down).
     

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