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This is a real gentleman. One of nicest, most genuine person I've me in this trade. This is a very old picture.
STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.
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This is a real gentleman. One of nicest, most genuine person I've me in this trade. This is a very old picture.
It's my gift , I can't explain it.This is fascinating to me! And it has me wondering, though I'm not sure if you'd be able to quantify it, what it is that your eye is looking for. In other words, why would one person be better with, say, a jacket that fully covered the seat but another better with something different. Or are there just too many variables invovled?
think it can be said there is sloppy sewing in any country or any city in any country. Every shop has a skill set and some are more refined than others.I agree with @ChasingStyle that it's too strong to conclude something like, they are carefree thus their work is sloppy. I am not yet at the 11th level of relationship with either of the 2 Neapolitan (traveling) tailors I've worked with, but I found both to be diligent and passionate about their craft. For example, with 1 of them, he mentioned during the first fitting that the balance was off and asked me whether I wanted a second fitting or the jacket straight away.
Having said that, as a non-Neapolitan outsider, I think there is some truth to "their work is sloppy," but it depends on both the tailor and the client. If you watch O'Mast, there is a sense that Neapolitan tailors don't like clients who they perceive as ignorant. So for these clients, their attitude may be, "you can't tell what's good or bad, so I don't have to do my best."
This is awesome -- thank you so much for the insights. I especially love the notion of the jacket length being invisible as it blends with the trouser. Do you find any meaningful difference at all when we're talking about sportcoats and odd trousers? I'm guessing that the 'ideal' could vary a bit from trouser to trouser, actually, given the variables you mention (about how the trousers fit).It's my gift , I can't explain it.
You want to balance girth and height with the length.
Have stocky built clients who want short jackets and it looks terrible. The short length makes the hips look wider and feminine.
Balance the length with the waist position, how the trouser fits and drapes, relation of torso and leg. Idea is to create proportions that make sense and doesn't create an imbalance of line. There is a desirable point where the jacket length is invisible because it just looks right and blends the jacket and the trouser. It doesn't draw attention by being too short or long or disruptive to the overall look. No formula can work with so many variables to consider.
Choose a jacket length a few thousand times and you develop a sense when it's right and you know when it's not.
Best suits or jacket/trouser fits are cohesive and balanced Not one element draws more attention than another. Bad proportions draw attention in a negative way, cause a distraction. If the length is right you don’t notice it and that’s good.This is awesome -- thank you so much for the insights. I especially love the notion of the jacket length being invisible as it blends with the trouser. Do you find any meaningful difference at all when we're talking about sportcoats and odd trousers? I'm guessing that the 'ideal' could vary a bit from trouser to trouser, actually, given the variables you mention (about how the trousers fit).
I'll have to look for some of this other DBs. We're in agreement about the SBs. I hope that one day he decides to commission a SB jacket or suit from @Despos!The DB jackets he commissions have always been spot on. It's the single breasted jackets that are off in my eye.
@lordsuperbMaybe its just a bad sample set that have shaped my opinion. I love my Neapolitan jackets but they still have problems after making multiple orders. I've also received numerous emails from posters complaining about the tailors they've used from the area. I have no desire to test out multiple tailors from naples so I'll be sticking with my perfect imperfections. My jackets from my tailor make me happy and I enjoy seeing him when he comes state side.
Naples was a blast but i travel light and didn't have room for extra baggage.
18 days worth of clothing in two bags.
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I'll have to look for some of this other DBs. We're in agreement about the SBs. I hope that one day he decides to commission a SB jacket or suit from @Despos!
@Mr. Six @lordsuperb
What do you guys see in the SB’s you would change?
Have never cut a jacket for anyone with his shoulders and shoulder blades. I’m more adept at high, square shoulders than extreme sloping shoulders.
Would be a challenge
@Mr. Six @lordsuperb
What do you guys see in the SB’s you would change?
Have never cut a jacket for anyone with his shoulders and shoulder blades. I’m more adept at high, square shoulders than extreme sloping shoulders.
Would be a challenge
@lordsuperbThe Good.........
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The side profile shows the small of the back falling straight and not accentuating Simon's seat. The fuller trousers are congruent with the overall shape of the jacket.
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The amount of fullness in the chest, subtle waist suppression, and slight hip flair make the two jackets work.
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The Bad and The Ugly-
Anderson Sheppard
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Ciardi
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Chittleborough & Morgan
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Cifonelli
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Dalcuore
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Kathryn Sargent
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Richard Anderson is average at best and looks like RTW.
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@Encathol EpistemiaI'm pretty well served by my tailors, but reading this almost makes me wonder if there's a system for referrals to a specialist, as though some kind of sartorial analogue to an HMO. I apparently have very square shoulders. At my first slip on fitting with Joseph Genuardi, we found that the shoulders weren't cut square enough, which prompted him to muse, "when I was drafting the pattern, I thought, "wow, these are really square,"" and yet, alas not. It's one of the principle excu... *achem* reasons that I've had for seeking bespoke clothing; decades of discontent around the shoulders can be motivating.
The Good.........
View attachment 1568890
The side profile shows the small of the back falling straight and not accentuating Simon's seat. The fuller trousers are congruent with the overall shape of the jacket.
View attachment 1568891
View attachment 1568892
The amount of fullness in the chest, subtle waist suppression, and slight hip flair make the two jackets work.
View attachment 1568902
View attachment 1568904
View attachment 1568905
The Bad and The Ugly-
Anderson Sheppard
View attachment 1568909
Ciardi
View attachment 1568910
Chittleborough & Morgan
View attachment 1568911
View attachment 1568912
Cifonelli
View attachment 1568913
Dalcuore
View attachment 1568914
View attachment 1568921
Kathryn Sargent
View attachment 1568915
Richard Anderson is average at best and looks like RTW.
View attachment 1568916