1. Styleforum Gives - Holiday Charity Auction 11: Any Three (3) Customized Ties from Vanda Fine Clothing

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Double Breasted Style.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., May 29, 2008.

  1. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Distinguished Member

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    I like it a lot @MZhammer
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2014


  2. Isolation

    Isolation Distinguished Member

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    First fitting of the burgundy DB jacket I talked about earlier:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Asked to have the lapel wider (as pinned on the left one) and button stance made slightly wider and lower (chalk marks), gorge lower. Thoughts?
     


  3. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Distinguished Member

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    The back looks real messy, Isolation.
     


  4. Isolation

    Isolation Distinguished Member

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    Yeah literally all the suits I wear start like that first fitting. It'll hopefully be fixed by the end. :S Don't know what's wrong, haven't been able to find a tailor that completely fixes it, I wonder if it's the high drop?
     


  5. OTM

    OTM Senior Member

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    See!? I told you it would be great!

    The back issues stem from the shoulders, yeh?
     


  6. Isolation

    Isolation Distinguished Member

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    I believe so, every tailor I've worked with has had some trouble with it. I also think my stance, quite erect, makes it hard, especially as I like waist suppression. I think it looks okay from the front at least.

    I think the color looks just fine, fwiw. Don't regret that part really.
     


  7. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Distinguished Member

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    Still a good tailor should get it right. Color looks cool, tho.
     


  8. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior Member

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    Shoulders are way too wide and not sloped enough. Back is too long. It is falling down off the backs of your shoulders (thus the pinning) and the whole back balance is contacting your hips. It is typical of the erect posture to have this happen. I fix this all the time....with MTM.
     


  9. chocsosa

    chocsosa Distinguished Member

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  10. Isolation

    Isolation Distinguished Member

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    Hi, can I have some opinions specifically on the lapels and roping please? What do you think of the width and shape/angle? How can I get it to be more angled as opposed to horizontal? Lower gorge?

    [​IMG]
     


  11. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    I would worry more about that buckling right above the button. It probably has something to do with your dropped shoulder, so it might be kind of inevitable in some respects, but I would ask if that's something that can be improved.
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2014


  12. Isolation

    Isolation Distinguished Member

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    Thanks. I'll have a look at it. I am hoping it's because the button hasn't been set in properly and it wasn't pinned perfectly. If I recall correctly the tailor did take in length from below the armhole so it should match up okay at the quarters.
     


  13. Concordia

    Concordia Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    You're talking about the next jacket, right? Because this one is almost completely baked. Doesn't look at all bad, BTW, even if one might prefer small changes of the kind you're talking about.
     


  14. Isolation

    Isolation Distinguished Member

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    Yeah yeah, I'm pretty happy with it as it is. I might get more from this tailor in the future as I enjoy working with him and price is reasonable, so I want to see if there are changes I should look out for in the future as these two were my first db jacket with him. Just wanted to get them made before I leave HK, don't get that many chances after all.
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2014


  15. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    It might be just me, or the fact that I'm looking at a still photo instead of a moving person, but I think the horizontal line of the lapels accentuates your dropped shoulder. Especially combined with the horizontal line of the skirt on a DB jacket.
     


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