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Double Breasted Style.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., May 29, 2008.

  1. Isolation

    Isolation Distinguished Member

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    Hey guys, I've got a few questions for a friend, hope you can help.

    My friend is quite a small stature and would like something that can help achieve a more masculine look and avoid looking like a schoolboy. I suggested peak lapels and double breasted suits/blazers. Good ideas?

    Additionally they're thinking of getting some suits in glenplaid but they're also just starting to expand their wardrobe. Do you think glen plaid db suit jackets in dark blue and light gray/dark gray are appropriate to wear as separates.

    The general idea is that glenplaid is conservative enough for suits but also patterned in a way that I think allows a suit jacket to be worn as a sportscoat, but I'm not sure if this extends to double breasted ones. Perhaps it's best to go with sb suit worn as separate?
     


  2. Classic Car

    Classic Car Senior Member

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    I think db are not suitable for small size people. It may help to go with lighter colour especially for pants.
     


  3. Isolation

    Isolation Distinguished Member

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    Is glenplaid suitable for a db blazer?
     


  4. Classic Car

    Classic Car Senior Member

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    It depsens on the colour and fabric, some of them are really nice.
     


  5. add911_11

    add911_11 Distinguished Member

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    It sounds like your friend has limited knowledge on classic men's clothing, is that right?

    I personally think that a balanced cut (e.g. adequate lapel size and coat i.e. front and back length) is very important and unique to each individual build.

    I also think that the eligibility of odd items shall rest on the composition and the texture of the fabric. What you mentioned (dark blue glenplaid, light grey, dark grey) are all suitable for odd trouser and blazer, but probably you have to suggest the right fabric composition to your friend.

    Example:

    Wool/Linen/SIlk is usually good for odd jacketing only; Woolen (not Worsted) Flannels are usually good for both odd jacket and trouser; All wool worsted is usually good for suits only.

    If he does not have >5 suits, I will suggest him to have all the basics covered first. Such as blue/charcoal/chalkstripe/POW/Mid Grey
     


  6. Isolation

    Isolation Distinguished Member

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    Thanks. They have or will have all the basics. We're fairly new to the whole thing specifically db jackets as they aren't quite as common.

    We're about to get a high twist/fresco, dugdalebros new fine worsted specifically. I suppose that would be inappropriate?

    But basically so the rules for which fabrics are suitable for suits/blazers/both basically same as single breasted, or harsher?

    I'm getting a lightish navy hopsack similar to claghorn's in cut and I think that'd be a good pick for a blazer suit.
     


  7. dasai

    dasai Senior Member

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    Saw this thread and thought I'd chime in with a question. (Haven't posted in years; been busy elsewhere, child-rearing and slowly building out my wardrobe.)

    I'm thinking of going double-breasted for my next suit. I'm in education, so I rely more on sport jackets in general (a wool and a linen blazer, a tweed jacket, a camelhair jacket, and a couple others), and I reserve suits for meetings, ceremonies and seminars. My current stock of (non-funeral) suits consists of the basic three: worsted solid charcoal, navy, and mid-grey, all single-breasted and three-piece.

    I'm looking to avoid stripes, both since I'm not in business and since I don't want to get too close to the '30s gangster archetype (though I do admire the ease with which they pulled off the look). Visiting the local department store's made-to-measure section, I rather liked the look of a solid greyish-blue worsted, but I'm concerned that I'm still hewing too closely to what I've done. Should I go for a lighter blue? A windowpane or Prince of Wales check? Even a chalkstripe?

    I need some solid guidance here. I'm not concerned about becoming "the double-breasted suit guy" at work since suits are relatively infrequent anyways, but I don't want to stick out too much either. I'm weird like that.
     


  8. Concordia

    Concordia Distinguished Member Dubiously Honored

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    If you won't wear it a lot, you could go for a flannel. Mid-grey for the daytime, navy or darker grey for evening. Chalk stripes are always good, although not usually the best for evenings. RAF blue or French blue (petrol?) worsted, maybe pick-and-pick, would add to the repertoire and be dressy but not as solemn as your other choices. Another option would be a discreet pattern like a herringbone. That has the advantage of emphasizing the diagonal aspect of the lapels-- if you're large enough to worry about looking like a monolith.
     


  9. dasai

    dasai Senior Member

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    Well, I don't need to worry about being too large. I was a 37S the last time I measured, but my workplace recently changed and I've been cycling every day, which has knocked at least 3 kilos off my weight and left me scrawnier than usual. Should probably eat more and hit the gym to balance things out a bit.

    I've thought about the flannel, but I'm not sure I want to limit myself, since something heavy is only going to be good for midwinter in Osaka. (The tweed jacket gets a lot of use from December to March, for instance.) I've also contemplated some texture in the weave itself, but don't know if I like the look. I did note that the salesperson seemed to be actively steering me towards a lighter shade of blue than the one I picked out, though, so perhaps I'll take your advice, go back and give that a second look.

    Choices, choices... I'm so bad at this. Last year, I was finally ready to get a batch of Donegal tweed to have made into a jacket locally, so naturally the business went into bankruptcy just before I finally made my decision, and of course Magee themselves don't seem to have one with that particular makeup of flecks, so all I've got is my little swatch to show for it.
     
    Last edited: May 5, 2014


  10. The_Foxx

    The_Foxx Distinguished Member

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    Another great example--- really like the fit and cut, especially on the sides!
    [​IMG]
     


  11. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior Member

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    [​IMG]

    One of my clients
     


  12. carpu65

    carpu65 Senior Member

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    Well,is too tight,too short and too showy with these pink buttonholes...
    But the cut is great!
    A double breast like this but with classic proportions could be the perfect double breasted.
    Im very impressed.
     


  13. Cleav

    Cleav Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored Moderator

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  14. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior Member

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    Well let's not forget its the client's interest in fashion that you see on display there.
     


  15. Cleav

    Cleav Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored Moderator

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    OC, I get you there. Though if that's fashion then it's not for me. More importantly yer man likes it snug and short, fair play.
     


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