Dismiss Notice

STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Double Breasted Style.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., May 29, 2008.

  1. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    3,122
    Likes Received:
    2,077
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2009
    Location:
    New York


  2. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

    Messages:
    3,282
    Likes Received:
    1,350
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2012


  3. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

    Messages:
    4,505
    Likes Received:
    557
    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2008
    Location:
    New York
    

    I have DB's from Chan and Peter Lee. The Chan is a step up in elegance, but Peter Lee makes great "workhorse" type clothes that you can wear guilt free. There is a noticeable big step up then to Steed. The combination of balance, comfort and panache is touch to beat from Edwin and Matthew.
     


  4. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    5,954
    Likes Received:
    653
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    I've recently had a few things made by WW Chan. They started by copying the first DB suit I had made at A&S, some 15 years ago.

    In spite of that, the suits could not be confused with each other. Chan likes square-ish shoulders; even after I had them take out half of the padding, it's still a much less relaxed look. And while they do a very elegant peak lapel on morning coats, etc., for DB they insist on straight edges and more or less horizontal notches. No idea why. The SB jacket looks fantastic in a somewhat generic American/International sort of way. Excellent proportions. In both cases, good results if not especially English.

    For fit, they are excellent in parts. They copied the belted trousers from London, but snipped in about one inch of girth from the thighs. The end result is both comfortable and elegant. On jackets, they like clean. I need a lot of drape in the back to have enough room to move, and might just get almost enough next round, but it has meant some negotiations. Anyway, I've had the first SB jacket altered and it nearly fits well. I have a subsequent suit that needs a trip to the same alterations shop, and might do even better as they did add a little more cloth at my insistence. Oddly, the original DB suit jacket fits much better-- perhaps the buttoned front keeps the arm scye in the correct spot, where SB jackets need a bit more help in moving it forward. I had a dinner suit made, and found it very comfortable to use while playing a concert last summer. No small feat for a fully buttoned, ventless, DB jacket while seated.

    The construction is an interesting paradox. Light weight canvas, but a little stiffer, and crumples less gracefully than its London counterparts. I wore a light-weight SB sport jacket around on a trip last week, and it looks a tad tired.

    For trousers, you get the most obvious deficit. Waistband is nowhere near Savile Row in quality, and the belt loops look cheap. Kilgour's Shanghai suits had some of the same problems. Interestingly, like many HK houses, Chan will put rubber on the inside of the waistband, which does help unbelted trousers stay up. So that's one reason to use that suit for air travel where security is an issue. Otherwise, for the same money you can get way better-quality pents from NsM.

    Final verdict-- trousers fit beautifully but aren't as much fun to put on and take off. May still use them as a source for this.

    SB jackets may be useful for summer wear, if they do as they promise with more drape around the shoulder blades. No idea how their construction would work on winter wear-- if the light innards would be helped by the heavier cloth, or would sabotage the whole project. (Simon Winchester wrote about this problem.) In any case, potentially useful for business suits to wear hard. DB summer suits would be the obvious synthesis of their strengths, if only (a) I didn't already have a lot of them, (b) summer wear often rewards the softer A&S style, and (c) I'm less likely to want to have DB for schlepping around during 9 to 5 in hot weather.

    One additional complication is that for just a little more in cost, Whitcomb and Shaftesbury now has a bespoke program with Indian labo(u)r that, if it produces a suit with English construction, may end up being better value. We shall see.
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2013


  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    6,102
    Likes Received:
    1,117
    Joined:
    Mar 16, 2006
    ^That's what you get when you seek a reproduction rather than the original.
     
    Last edited: Oct 6, 2013


  6. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    5,954
    Likes Received:
    653
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    Chan has their own construction technique and would have used it regardless. I had brought in the suit for measurement mostly to jump-start the cutting so I could get more than one fitting in by the end of the week. No question, though, that most of the stylistic fingerprints of the drape suit aren't there. Such is the price of a 60% discount.
     
    Last edited: Oct 7, 2013


  7. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    3,122
    Likes Received:
    2,077
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    

    Im not surprised by this. A lot of the time people ask me just what the difference is between a high end Bespoke and one that is less so. I can talk about things like labor time and handwork but people just don't really get this, the real difference is the finesse which is again hard to explain. I think someone just needs to experience the difference.
     


  8. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

    Messages:
    3,282
    Likes Received:
    1,350
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2012


  9. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

    Messages:
    4,107
    Likes Received:
    768
    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2005
    

    I think the "finesse" is more readily evident in DB than SB.
     


  10. kulata

    kulata Senior member

    Messages:
    2,854
    Likes Received:
    4,811
    Joined:
    Nov 13, 2008


  11. Gianni Cerutti

    Gianni Cerutti Senior member

    Messages:
    3,282
    Likes Received:
    1,350
    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2012
    [​IMG]
    Very elegant ... I really like his behavior and how they are connected in buttons ...
     


  12. David Reeves

    David Reeves Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

    Messages:
    3,122
    Likes Received:
    2,077
    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2009
    Location:
    New York
    Yes thats a very nice and interesting button placement.
     


  13. Ivar

    Ivar Senior member

    Messages:
    928
    Likes Received:
    139
    Joined:
    Jun 10, 2010
    Location:
    Stockholm
    
    Would look better as a 4x2.
    Would look better as a 4x1. :D
     


  14. kashmir

    kashmir Senior member

    Messages:
    726
    Likes Received:
    152
    Joined:
    Oct 5, 2010
    ^why? because the lapels are too big?
     


  15. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

    Messages:
    5,954
    Likes Received:
    653
    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2004
    
    Nah-- I like how the 6 buttons break up the surface.
     


Share This Page

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by