Double Breasted Style.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., May 29, 2008.

  1. recondite

    recondite Senior member

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    Interesting. I am normally a big proponent of 4x1 and almost against purely vestigial button in principle, But because the cut and your torso length, both look good and I am having difficulty in finding a preference.

    If you will wear it primarily for business, I would go 4x1. If mostly casual as sportswear or travelwear, then 6x1.

    That is a really well done suit and very good look for you.
     


  2. tim_horton

    tim_horton Senior member

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    Correct me if I'm wrong but isn't the cut on the left in the pic above a 4x2, not a 4x1? I thought a 4x1 looks more like this:

    [​IMG]

    with the jacket buttoning on the right bottom button instead of the right top button, and the top row of buttons being spaced a bit more widely apart than the bottom row.
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2013


  3. recondite

    recondite Senior member

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    I am sure you are correct, but I a judging by the number of buttons buttoned in practice versus the number capable of being buttoned. But again, I am sure you are right, only because I do not know the convention for a jacket designed to be buttoned along the lowest course of buttons versus a middle or upper upper course.

    So, you are saying the jacket in question is either a 4x2 or a 6x2, even when it is designed to be buttoned in the middle and not both middle and bottom?
     


  4. FlaneurNYC

    FlaneurNYC Senior member

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    You could button both buttons on a 4x2, where you could not on a 4x1. Here's a true 4x1: [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 24, 2013


  5. recondite

    recondite Senior member

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    Thanks for the clarification. I only have a handful of DB attire that are all configured the same, so I never took the time to understand the conventions for those that are different..
     


  6. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Pitti the fool! Patrick Grant tires of dressing well:

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 25, 2013


  7. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    6x2 looks much better in the photos above!
     


  8. demian19003

    demian19003 Well-Known Member

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    Nothing wrong with either. One is not less "balanced" than the other.
    However, there is an art to all of this as you know, and the additional vertical strength of the 6 could help those vertically challenged or heavier set, for example.

    One may therefore suit a figure better than another.
    There are some styles, colors, or patterns I like very much, but unfortunately cannot pull off myself...again, there is an art to all of this.

    the 6 is more traditional and more formal.

    the 4 is more modern and can be carried into casual looks (I personally prefer)...the 4 button on the left could be worn with colorful jeans/trousers, as example. The other couldn't. It would look too much like an orphaned suit coat.

    Amazing what two buttons can do!

    On another note, for those of you who may not be familiar, do some research into the wardrobe of the Duke of Windsor.
    His entire wardrobe was put up for auction some years ago, and the catalogue from it sells for astronomical sums and is the bible for many..Patrick Grant as one.
    A North Korean phone book is easier to find.

    Always aware he was a man of incredible style and taste, I never knew (and only recently discovered) his extraordinary sense and use of color. Incredibly ahead of his time.
    The colors he used, ability to mix and match, etc. He was so ahead of his time and had an amazing sense of style, color, etc. Just amazing.

    There was a blurb on YouTube regarding it if I remember. It was an interview with Patrick and he actually pulled out his catalogues.

    Perhaps someone more involved than I knows where to find some images.
    Kind regards.
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2013


  9. demian19003

    demian19003 Well-Known Member

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    ^^ ... ah, the internet...
    The Duke of Windsor collection. Just amazing..

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2013


  10. Ivar

    Ivar Senior member

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    Definitely. The middle row is normally equidistant from the top and bottom row.



    Have to disagree with this. The 6x2 is more à la mode than the 4x2 and 4x1, but they are all about equally classic. As for which configuration is appropriate for which body type, the commonly held opinion is that 6x2s work best for the tall man, 4x2s work best for the short man, and 4x1s work best for DB dinner suits (regardless of body type).
     
    Last edited: Jan 28, 2013


  11. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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  12. tim_horton

    tim_horton Senior member

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    This was my understanding as well.
     


  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Three buttons on a side, the top is best place about 1" higher than the distance of the middle to the bottom button.

    Middle to bottom- 5", middle to top 6"

    I think any configuration can work on varying body types but the more important factor is the amount of overlap. The overlap and position of the buttoning button dictate how much opening you have and how much shirt will be seen. The lap controls where the lapels cross over and defines a lot of the look. This works together with the button configuration and placement.
     
    Last edited: Jan 29, 2013


  14. Ivar

    Ivar Senior member

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    I bow to your expertise. In that light, the jacket in question seems even odder:


     


  15. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Yes, the top button placement here makes things look compacted rather than elongated
     


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