Double Breasted Style.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., May 29, 2008.

  1. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Concordia -- Do they do a good job 'copying' your A & S? Any noticable difference in fit?
     


  2. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It won't be confused with the original. They measured that suit within an inch of its life (they've obviously taken on this kind of project before), but made a few aesthetic changes. The notches, as I said, and the contour of the lapel. (That's their call-- I didn't meet them at the Armoury.)

    At the first fitting, they tried to put in a lot of shoulder padding. I persuaded them to take out half of it and it still looks noticeably crisper than elderly A&S. Also, they were reluctant to move the armholes too tight. They did make the jacket a bit longer as well, and trimmed up the trouser legs (which might have needed it anyway).

    The result doesn't look especially A&S-like, and unlike the drape suit doesn't grab me under the arms. Rather, it floats on my shoulders. While I suspect they don't do the A&S Secret Sauce on the canvas, their preference for much lighter construction makes it very comfortable on the chest. Oddly enough, it actually fits me better than their first SB jacket. The armscyes aren't nearly as tight as I like them but the structure of the jacket holds them right where they should be in relation to my shoulders, so there's plenty of freedom to move. (Normally, I have found that tailors are more apt to screw up a DB than a SB early on, as there is less flexibility to adapt to a bad cut.)

    So-- all in all, a good suit, with prospects of even better ones to follow. But if I want A&S, I'll have to call London.
     


  3. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I guess you have never seen the back of Alan's suit, since you don't live in Hong Kong.
    Italian seems to have poor taste on DB lapels, just saying.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2013


  4. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Great. Do you mean lapels like this?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2013


  5. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    The button position looks bad.
     


  6. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    But the lapels are awesome. Notice, also, that the lapels have been ironed to follow the curve of the lapel so the chalk stripes aren't cut off on the bottom.
     


  7. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Mine have a higher crossover, but the basic shape is the same.
     


  8. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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  9. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    Ooh, nice I do like that. Nice drape.
     


  10. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

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    About every jacket looks like that in a similar position, I wouldn't be able to see 'drape' in a photo like this.
    Swollen and statuesque build up chests full of domette and haircloth on totally lean jackets do collapse quite similar to this a similar posture just like do jackets that are just extremely tight...


    Btw this drape is would be illegal anyway :foo::

    "Thanks for visiting!

    The photos posted on this tumblr are mine personal photos. Other then being reblogged within the tumblr community, they are strictly prohibited from being used in any other venue for any purposes. Photos do not belong to me will be noted, and linked whenever possible. Thanks for your understanding.

    G"
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2013


  11. aravenel

    aravenel Senior member

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    True, but it looks like nice drape from the pic, so in my mind and in lieu of pics to the contrary, I will continue to associate it with having nice drape :)
     


  12. Hampton

    Hampton Senior member

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    Double breasted vests in high quality, where could that be bought? Thinking of diffrent colors. Or is the only way to go bespoke?
    Can't really find good online webshops..
     


  13. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    Ede and Ravenscroft or Favourbrook.
     


  14. wmb

    wmb Senior member

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    +1
     


  15. Hampton

    Hampton Senior member

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    Thanks, just what I was looking for.

    Now a second question could a double breasted vest be worn with a single 2 button suit?
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2013


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