Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., May 29, 2008.
Concordia -- Do they do a good job 'copying' your A & S? Any noticable difference in fit?
It won't be confused with the original. They measured that suit within an inch of its life (they've obviously taken on this kind of project before), but made a few aesthetic changes. The notches, as I said, and the contour of the lapel. (That's their call-- I didn't meet them at the Armoury.)
At the first fitting, they tried to put in a lot of shoulder padding. I persuaded them to take out half of it and it still looks noticeably crisper than elderly A&S. Also, they were reluctant to move the armholes too tight. They did make the jacket a bit longer as well, and trimmed up the trouser legs (which might have needed it anyway).
The result doesn't look especially A&S-like, and unlike the drape suit doesn't grab me under the arms. Rather, it floats on my shoulders. While I suspect they don't do the A&S Secret Sauce on the canvas, their preference for much lighter construction makes it very comfortable on the chest. Oddly enough, it actually fits me better than their first SB jacket. The armscyes aren't nearly as tight as I like them but the structure of the jacket holds them right where they should be in relation to my shoulders, so there's plenty of freedom to move. (Normally, I have found that tailors are more apt to screw up a DB than a SB early on, as there is less flexibility to adapt to a bad cut.)
So-- all in all, a good suit, with prospects of even better ones to follow. But if I want A&S, I'll have to call London.
I guess you have never seen the back of Alan's suit, since you don't live in Hong Kong.
Italian seems to have poor taste on DB lapels, just saying.
Great. Do you mean lapels like this?
The button position looks bad.
But the lapels are awesome. Notice, also, that the lapels have been ironed to follow the curve of the lapel so the chalk stripes aren't cut off on the bottom.
Mine have a higher crossover, but the basic shape is the same.
Ooh, nice I do like that. Nice drape.
About every jacket looks like that in a similar position, I wouldn't be able to see 'drape' in a photo like this.
Swollen and statuesque build up chests full of domette and haircloth on totally lean jackets do collapse quite similar to this a similar posture just like do jackets that are just extremely tight...
Btw this drape is would be illegal anyway :
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True, but it looks like nice drape from the pic, so in my mind and in lieu of pics to the contrary, I will continue to associate it with having nice drape
Double breasted vests in high quality, where could that be bought? Thinking of diffrent colors. Or is the only way to go bespoke?
Can't really find good online webshops..
Ede and Ravenscroft or Favourbrook.
Thanks, just what I was looking for.
Now a second question could a double breasted vest be worn with a single 2 button suit?
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