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Double Breasted Style.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., May 29, 2008.

  1. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    This is actually something I feel as well because with a line as guide it becomes more pronounced, that said I think it's actually slightly angled, but I will talk to the tailor and see if I can get the next one better. In fact I just kind of like more of a peak stylistically in general, but I wonder if it's because of the width that it's harder to create much of an angle. I'll probably ask to reduce the width by 1/4 or 1/2 inch next time. Thoughts?

    I think generally speaking when I am in motion nobody notices my drop. I've talked to a few people I've known for a long time and shown my photos and they tell me they had never noticed my dropped shoulder until I showed them a photo of my standing straight so it's probably something I can live with.
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2014
  2. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    IME it's something that you never really notice on other people until you start looking for it and then you notice it on everyone and can't un-see it.
     
  3. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It will look more at home in London with a boutonniere on the right lapel also. Otherwise I'd be careful about going too far off your tailor's comfort zone. DB jackets are a mix of details, and if you change one without a real plan for the rest, it can look weird. If you do have a photo of an A&S jacket, you could try for more of a "swoop" on the lapels without going all Neapolitan. But if that would look as good with those shoulders and overall length I don't know. The length is a potential issue, but you can tolerate a slightly short jacket (as pictured) better if it's part of a suit.

    The only easy thing to change on the next one is the ticket pocket. Some do like them with DB, of course, including John Hitchcock of A&S.
     
    1 person likes this.
  4. carpu65

    carpu65 Senior member

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    An high gorge is the most important thing,and with high gorge ever shape angle is good.
    Personally i like an angle upward,but also a straight angle,if high,is good.
     
  5. deadAngle

    deadAngle Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    The choice of lazy horizontal peaks are the right choice for this gorge height and shoulder padding combination, and works well with the ticket pocket. If you want the peaks to swoop upwards more on the next jacket, you need to lower the gorge so that you can continue to line up the lapel with the tip of your shoulder. Lapel width looks ideal, and the current roping looks just fine (although a smoother, rounder sleevehead might match the lazy peaks better).
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2014
  6. hippotamus

    hippotamus Senior member

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    Iso, beside the button pulling (& the wrinkle overall), I think the suit looks great.
    Color, style and feel looks very balance

    Lapel and Roping looks nice

    I have 2 question:

    1) What fabric is that ?
    2) For double breast style : should there be lapel buttonhole on both L&R lapel ?

    Cheer,
    H
     
  7. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Thanks you your opinions. I do like a horizontal peak but it's a bit bold and I think goes well with the big lapels of this jacket, but while I do like it, I was going to go for a slightly smaller lapel on a more conservative suit where I might have it more angled.

    1) What fabric is that ?
    Dugdale Bros New Fine Worsted.

    2) For double breast style : should there be lapel buttonhole on both L&R lapel ?
    I personally like one side only but I believe both are done.
     
  8. david Bespoke

    david Bespoke Member

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    Quote:THE BUTTONS DISTANCE SEEMS A LITTLE SHORT . THE LENGTH IS OK , BUT FOR DOUBLE BREAST JACKET THE UNDER HEM SHOULD SEEM A LINE , FROM YOUR PICTURE IT SEEMS THE FRONT INSIDE HEM COME OUT .
     
  9. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  10. LeviMay

    LeviMay Senior member

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    I think that loks great. Well done.
     
  11. chobochobo

    chobochobo Senior member Moderator

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    Looks a bit feminine to me, to be honest.
     
  12. MGD83

    MGD83 Senior member

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    I like the blue with the white, but isn't it a bit late in season for that combo? Also waist is a bit too suppressed for my liking. Is that coat bespoke? A double breasted sport coat with ticket pocket and turn back cuffs?
     
  13. tchoy

    tchoy Senior member

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    Looks good @Isolation one of your better fits it would have been so much better to have slightly less waist suppression imho. There is pull in the jacket moving the buttons may solve the problem.
     
    1 person likes this.
  14. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    It's actually a suit/blazer suit. It's still a bit sunny here, so I wanted to try the combo before I retire it. Yeah I had it made in Hong Kong.

    It's on the high end of waist suppression, but I do kind of like it. I might have it reduced when I go back to the tailor, I just didn't have time, but I'm fairly happy with it. Actually my partner said the same thing, but It honestly doesn't bother me if it's a bit feminine, though I obviously don't want it to be outlandish and look like it came out of topman.
     
  15. OTM

    OTM Senior member

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    I would have liked more assertive cuffs and I think the ticket pocket is unnecessary. Other than that, very good looking.
     
  16. PCK1

    PCK1 Senior member

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    I think all in all it turned out pretty well....agree with everyone about the waist suppression...but its more of a "fashion opinion" than an actual critique...as waist suppression is very "in" with designers...

    now you just need a tie and dress trousers to complete it....
     
  17. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Moderator

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    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    6 people like this.
  18. OTM

    OTM Senior member

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    Effortless.

    Maybe I could suggest a tad wider pant leg for, to my eye, improved balance. Other than that, very nice. Impeccable styling, let the cloth speak.
     
    1 person likes this.
  19. Cleav

    Cleav Senior member Moderator

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    Thank you OTM, much appreciated
     
  20. SwedishFish

    SwedishFish Senior member

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    Wow, I love the silhouette of this. The metal buttons, cuff and ticket pocket are a bit too fussy for my liking but I'd love a navy blazer in this cut. Shows that us skinny guys can pull of the db style.
     

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