Double Breasted Style.

[Despos]



Lapels too heavy and large for that frame.

Not to me, width looks OK. It's the shaping of the edge and collar that could use a tweak

 

[Eustace Tilley]

^ Love that DB - I assume its a Liverano on one of the Armoury guys?

 

[poorsod]

The picture is from the Armoury guys. Not sure about the maker.

 

[bboysdontcryy]

Only a few tailors they represent: Chan, Liverano, and Orazio.

If I were to hazard a guess, this is by Chan. Find it unlikely that the Italian tailors they represent will do such a strong roped shoulder, or cut a coat in this silhouette.

 

[add911_11]



Alan likes his coats and trouser on the tight side. Suits him but I bet he is always uncomfortable.

This suit is made by Chan, don't think any Italian can cut the DB lapel as nice as this, that includes the big Italian names.

 

[add911_11]



Alan likes his coats and trouser on the tight side. Suits him but I bet he is always uncomfortable.

This suit is made by Chan, don't think any Italian can cut the DB lapel as nice as this, that includes the big Italian names.

 

[Gruto]

Sorry, but those lapels still look out of proportion to me. Not sure what it is. Maybe the photo - or my glasses.

 

[SkinnyGoomba]

Readjust your proportions, that is fantastic.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Alan likes his coats and trouser on the tight side. Suits him but I bet he is always uncomfortable.

How can you deduce that he is 'always uncomfortable' in his suits? The coat is certainly not tight - pulling at the buttoning point would be the dead giveaway. What you're probably referring to is the taper at the waist, a stylistic choice that most Savile Row tailors adhere too as well. Looks great.

I won't comment on your expert assumption on Italian tailors.

 

[Cravate_Noire]

I won't comment on your expert assumption on Italian tailors.

There also two, maximum 3 of them around as wel...

 

[Ich_Dien]

TBH it looks feminine to me. Too much of an "X" and not a "V". His physique should call for more drape in the chest.

 

[Zarium]

Don't like the look one bit. Lapels look way too huge, almost ostentatiously pretentious.

 

[Concordia]

Well, part of DB is having confidence in what you have to say. These could be a bit trimmer but I wouldn't change the basic look.

One odd thing about Chan is that while they do very elegant large-bellied "swooping" peak lapels for SB jackets (morning coats and the like), they refuse to do the same for DB, as A&S do. For them, the notch must properly be nearly horizontal. I asked them to copy an old A&S suit of mine and while it came out very well in most respects, it had a completely different lapel line. When I tried to negotiate different for suit #2, they firmly said no.

 

[The Upright Man]



TBH it looks feminine to me. Too much of an "X" and not a "V". His physique should call for more drape in the chest.

I agree.

I've noticed this style, not just with double-breasted jackets, but with many of the single breasted jackets too. Far too much waist suppression and generally too tight.

It's not a good look.

 

[Zarium]

Well, part of DB is having confidence in what you have to say. These could be a bit trimmer but I wouldn't change the basic look.

One odd thing about Chan is that while they do very elegant large-bellied "swooping" peak lapels for SB jackets (morning coats and the like), they refuse to do the same for DB, as A&S do. For them, the notch must properly be nearly horizontal. I asked them to copy an old A&S suit of mine and while it came out very well in most respects, it had a completely different lapel line. When I tried to negotiate different for suit #2, they firmly said no.

I once read something about one of the Armoury guys trying to dictate a certain sort of "house cut" that Chan should adhere to, where the peak lapels have a horizontal notch. Perhaps that's why.

In any case, I think the above DB's lapels look hideous and I'm not a fan of horizontal notch peak lapels at all.

I agree.

I've noticed this style, not just with double-breasted jackets, but with many of the single breasted jackets too. Far too much waist suppression and generally too tight.

It's not a good look.

I agree. Too aggressive of a waist suppression. Don't like the look one bit.