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Double Breasted Style.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., May 29, 2008.

  1. VRaivio

    VRaivio Senior member

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    A great-looking suit, Butler, I gave my virtual thumbs-up right after first seeing it on T-J-o-S. You're one lucky chap.
     
  2. mbaltazar

    mbaltazar Senior member

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    Double breasted suits are amazing classic menswear. I've read somewhere on this thread that they are not "business appropriate". I don't see why. I work in a conservative industry and I wear my 2 DB suits and my DB sports coat just as I wear a SB suit. I like to notice that on whnay initial pictures, many of the suit cuts where shorter in lenght than they became later on. I also favor DB with a little shorter skirt, as it flatters the wearer, so it doesn't seems like we have a huge torso and minimal legs.

    @betelgeuse: nice jacket! I have a similar one :)
     
    Last edited: Aug 17, 2014
  3. suityourselfTO

    suityourselfTO New Member

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    Nice DB butler love the fabric and buttons
     
  4. MZhammer

    MZhammer Senior member

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    Gents any thoughts on this button stance? I usually don't buy Longs but the length was what I wanted to wear with pants rather than jeans. Sits right even with my naval but seems a bit low.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2014
  5. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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  6. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    I like it a lot @MZhammer
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2014
  7. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    First fitting of the burgundy DB jacket I talked about earlier:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Asked to have the lapel wider (as pinned on the left one) and button stance made slightly wider and lower (chalk marks), gorge lower. Thoughts?
     
  8. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    The back looks real messy, Isolation.
     
    1 person likes this.
  9. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Yeah literally all the suits I wear start like that first fitting. It'll hopefully be fixed by the end. :S Don't know what's wrong, haven't been able to find a tailor that completely fixes it, I wonder if it's the high drop?
     
  10. OTM

    OTM Senior member

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    See!? I told you it would be great!

    The back issues stem from the shoulders, yeh?
     
  11. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    I believe so, every tailor I've worked with has had some trouble with it. I also think my stance, quite erect, makes it hard, especially as I like waist suppression. I think it looks okay from the front at least.

    I think the color looks just fine, fwiw. Don't regret that part really.
     
  12. Betelgeuse

    Betelgeuse Senior member

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    Still a good tailor should get it right. Color looks cool, tho.
     
  13. OTCtailor

    OTCtailor Senior member

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    Shoulders are way too wide and not sloped enough. Back is too long. It is falling down off the backs of your shoulders (thus the pinning) and the whole back balance is contacting your hips. It is typical of the erect posture to have this happen. I fix this all the time....with MTM.
     
  14. chocsosa

    chocsosa Senior member

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  15. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Hi, can I have some opinions specifically on the lapels and roping please? What do you think of the width and shape/angle? How can I get it to be more angled as opposed to horizontal? Lower gorge?

    [​IMG]
     
  16. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I would worry more about that buckling right above the button. It probably has something to do with your dropped shoulder, so it might be kind of inevitable in some respects, but I would ask if that's something that can be improved.
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2014
  17. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Thanks. I'll have a look at it. I am hoping it's because the button hasn't been set in properly and it wasn't pinned perfectly. If I recall correctly the tailor did take in length from below the armhole so it should match up okay at the quarters.
     
  18. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You're talking about the next jacket, right? Because this one is almost completely baked. Doesn't look at all bad, BTW, even if one might prefer small changes of the kind you're talking about.
     
  19. Isolation

    Isolation Senior member

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    Yeah yeah, I'm pretty happy with it as it is. I might get more from this tailor in the future as I enjoy working with him and price is reasonable, so I want to see if there are changes I should look out for in the future as these two were my first db jacket with him. Just wanted to get them made before I leave HK, don't get that many chances after all.
     
    Last edited: Sep 19, 2014
  20. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It might be just me, or the fact that I'm looking at a still photo instead of a moving person, but I think the horizontal line of the lapels accentuates your dropped shoulder. Especially combined with the horizontal line of the skirt on a DB jacket.
     

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