Double Breasted Style.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., May 29, 2008.

  1. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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  2. RogerC

    RogerC Senior member

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    If you do it as a young guy, it should be a little slimmer, and you may want to think about different accessories. Also, it helps if you're in a southern country. You may consider a darker shade of tan if you're more up north.
     
  3. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    So there's some truth to it being old-fashioned. Been looking at these elegant pictures so much so that I've come to appreciate this beauty, and dress a little beyond my age.

    What type of accessories are you speaking of?
     
  4. addedfuel

    addedfuel Senior member

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    Double breast for 2012 is about keeping it slim and shorter, I'm 1,7m, and wear 4x2 buttons on my DB because the 6x2 layout make the jacket too long, dwarfing my body. I wore my thick 14oz wool DB yesterday.

    I am 34, past your late twenties, if that makes a difference.
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2012
  5. Sander

    Sander Senior member

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    Hm, fwiw I don't think you're doing yourself a favour here with the 4x1. Upper body looks really short.

    @boysdontcry: if you're unsure about it, don't do it. I think you have to be confident to pull this off. But I do like DBs on younger guys; maybe start with a navy, formal suit. Very safe bet and you can get used to it.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2012
  6. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    I have a few navy, charcoals, and greys (all SB) already, but I was thinking about having something made up for the Summer, hence I've been considering using linen for a DB. But, you're right. You need confidence to carry this off with aplomb.
     
  7. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    The way the coat is hanging off the shoulders look, well, off. Balance looks off as well, with a discernible collar gap.
     
  8. addedfuel

    addedfuel Senior member

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    While we're on my DB critique, this is the same jacket on a different day. Different shirt and no collar gap so maybe it was my posture on the other photo.

    But please expand on your comment of the jacket 'hanging off the shoulders.' I work out and have thick arms and fear that if the shoulders are taken in further, my biceps/triceps would stretch and bulge.


    .[​IMG]
     
  9. yywwyy

    yywwyy Senior member

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    Your jackets too short with too much waist supression and your pants are too tight. I promise you that those things make you look shorter.
     
  10. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Trousers are def. too tight, hence the bunching around the knees. You probably have large calves (so do I), hence this problem.

    Jacket could probably use some length. Trousers could also be worn higher, however.

    Your jacket is not 'hugging your collar. See for instance, the picture of the man I posted above. When a jacket hugs the collar well, it should look like that. How much tie you want to show (button stance), is up to you.
     
  11. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    The buttoning point is extremely high. Try buttoning the jacket on the lower button only and it will transform the look in a good way. A longer throat between the lapels showing more shirt would make you look longer and leaner. I don't agree with your thoughts about 2X2 verses 3X2 buttoning on a DB. What you want is a defined waist set a bit higher than the buttoning point. This will define the upper body from the lower and create a upper/lower balance. The large scale shirt collar against the narrow lapels doesn't help things. It all looks out of proportion.

    The collar gap mentioned isn't so much a gap as the neck opening looks too wide. Would look better closer to your neck. The tapered bottom on the trouser makes you feet look very long and you thighs look heavier.
     
    Last edited: Nov 17, 2012
  12. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    That's it. I was struggling to find the proper way to articulate this problem and I came up with the problem of 'collar gap'.

    Despos, what would you regard as being the proper spacing between buttons (the square area) for a short guy, someone around Foo's height (1.61m/5"3 ish)? Would 4 inches apart, by 4 1/4 inches height be okay?
     
  13. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Depends on your chest to waist ratio and how much overlap you have. Would reverse the order. 4 1/4" horizontal spacing and 4" vertical spacing. 5" between the middle buttoning button and the top buttons.
     
  14. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Despos: 32 inches waist (at the belly button) to 35 inches chest. Would 4 1/4 inches be too wide?
     
  15. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    That's a tough call trying to visualize this without actually seeing you in the jacket. Stick close to 4" apart give or take 1/4". Once the overlap is set you can move the nonbuttoning side of buttons (left jacket front) closer or farther apart and see what looks right to your eye if you want to experiment with the visual aspect to see what you like.
     

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