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Double Breasted Style.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., May 29, 2008.

  1. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    Savile Row convention is to put a buttonhole in both lapels for symmetry, though not all Savile Row tailors do it all the time. Off the row, the practice is less universal and some tailors do just one since you would never wear two flowers. To the extent there is a convention about this, it is a very low power convention and if you have your own preference for one way or the other, there is no reason not to follow it.

    Enhances the symmetry, that's about it.
     
  2. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Bill, take a rookie's perspective for what it's worth, but I think a grey flannel DB suit with patch pockets would be pretty sweet--particularly since you have no shortage of 'proper' suits. I'd love such a combination for myself one day.

    You make a convincing case.

    Actually, I don't have all the basics covered now. I just thought about the reasons why, and I think it's because I had a fairly complete basic Brooks Brothers tailored wardrobe from high school through early professional life. As I added to this as I grew older with more handfinished brands like Oxxford, Barbera, Brioni, etc., I tended to get things that were less basic. The basic stuff got retired for wear and tear (and a taste for better crafted stuff), and so when I moved on to bespoke, I started back with the basics again.

    For example, I do not own a solid blue suit. I feel I should have at least two: a fresco SB three piece for summer and saddle months; and a DB cold weather weight two piece. Same with the gray DB flannel suit.

    On the other hand, for reasons of position and what I do, I do not need to worry the least bit about what others think of my clothing. So, why worry about checking off the boxes of the basics?

    I don't know. I like what you are doing with how you are building up your bespoke wardrobe. I haven't given it as much thought, and often do things impulsively at the last minute.

    You know, like getting a length of LL gun club and deciding that will be my next odd jacket.


    - B
     
  3. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    I'm still mulling over patch hip pockets for mid to light gray DB flannel suit that I hope to have in the works beginning in a couple of weeks.

    I'll probably chicken out and go with besom pockets, but still...I can dress more with more aristocratic leisure than people who are in a stricter environment. Patch pockets might be a nice FU to the work ethic.

    - B


    Certainly for a SC- in one of those wool/silk summer fabrics [​IMG] I think I get a welted breast pocket though.

    I'd also favor it for a tweed DB [​IMG] Or a flannel w/ a good deal of surface interest. [​IMG]
     
  4. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    On the other hand, for reasons of position and what I do, I do not need to worry the least bit about what others think of my clothing. So, why worry about checking off the boxes of the basics?

    I don't know. I like what you are doing with how you are building up your bespoke wardrobe. I haven't given it as much thought, and often do things impulsively at the last minute.

    You know, like getting a length of LL gun club and deciding that will be my next odd jacket.


    - B


    [​IMG]
     
  5. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Certainly for a SC- in one of those wool/silk summer fabrics [​IMG] I think I get a welted breast pocket though.

    I'd also favor it for a tweed DB [​IMG] Or a flannel w/ a good deal of surface interest. [​IMG]


    I fall into the camp of being reluctant to do patch breast pockets on suits, despite my love of having all three out pockets done as patches on odd jackets.

    The statement, "Or a flannel w/ a good deal of surface interest.," might as well be a direct quotation from Ediwn on the thought of patch pockets on a suit...he basically thinks the woolier the flannel, the better for patch pockets.

    Since I'm still tending toward Golden Bale, obviously, we are not looking at the most surface interest in a flannel.

    - B
     
  6. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    . . .
    Since I'm still tending toward Golden Bale, obviously, we are not looking at the most surface interest in a flannel.

    - B

    Since you are leaning towards the Golden Bale flannel you are not really getting a real flannel. You are getting a delicate girlie-man flannel for wearing with a fez and sitting under ceiling fans in shaded cafes while drinking mint tea.
     
  7. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    Since you are leaning towards the Golden Bale flannel you are not really getting a real flannel. You are getting a delicate girlie-man flannel for wearing with a fez and sitting under ceiling fans in shaded cafes while drinking mint tea.

    Despos, hellllpppp!

    - B
     
  8. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    You need someone to pour your tea?
     
  9. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    You need someone to pour your tea?

    And wipe my bottom.

    That's why I call upon Despos.

    - B
     
  10. whnay.

    whnay. Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    how about some more pics assholes...

    [​IMG]
     
  11. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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  12. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]









    [​IMG]
     
    1 person likes this.
  13. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Senior member

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    [​IMG]


    Generously double breasted has worked well for him in the past.

    - B
     
  14. Brad

    Brad Senior member

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    Bad pic, but you get the idea.


    [​IMG]
     
  15. yachtie

    yachtie Senior member

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    Bad pic, but you get the idea.


    [​IMG]


    Nice "accessory". [​IMG]
     
  16. Brad

    Brad Senior member

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    Nice "accessory". [​IMG]

    She was. [​IMG]
     
  17. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    It looks like a carnation to me. The problem I have with carnations is that their base (the green leaves that hold the flower together) is too thick to fit through the buttonhole so the flower points up instead of out. But if you strip the leaves, then the flower kind of falls apart. I haven't yet tried using string to hold the flower together, or maybe it works best only with SR-style long lapel holes (I haven't tried it on anything but my Zegna suits). --Andre
    Have you tried the tea sized carnations?
     
  18. Tomasso

    Tomasso Senior member

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  19. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    Have you tried the tea sized carnations?

    I haven't heard of those before. The ones I wear bloom to about 1.5 inches in diameter. I'm usually at the mercy of my local farmer's market or flower shop.

    --Andre
     
  20. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Bad pic, but you get the idea.


    [​IMG]



    I only see one, here.
     

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