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Double Breasted Style.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., May 29, 2008.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Not to me, width looks OK. It's the shaping of the edge and collar that could use a tweak
     
  2. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    ^ Love that DB - I assume its a Liverano on one of the Armoury guys?
     
  3. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    The picture is from the Armoury guys. Not sure about the maker.
     
  4. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Only a few tailors they represent: Chan, Liverano, and Orazio.

    If I were to hazard a guess, this is by Chan. Find it unlikely that the Italian tailors they represent will do such a strong roped shoulder, or cut a coat in this silhouette.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2013
  5. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Alan likes his coats and trouser on the tight side. Suits him but I bet he is always uncomfortable.

    This suit is made by Chan, don't think any Italian can cut the DB lapel as nice as this, that includes the big Italian names.
     
  6. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    Alan likes his coats and trouser on the tight side. Suits him but I bet he is always uncomfortable.

    This suit is made by Chan, don't think any Italian can cut the DB lapel as nice as this, that includes the big Italian names.
     
  7. Gruto

    Gruto Senior member

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    Sorry, but those lapels still look out of proportion to me. Not sure what it is. Maybe the photo - or my glasses.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2013
  8. SkinnyGoomba

    SkinnyGoomba Senior member

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    Readjust your proportions, that is fantastic.
     
  9. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    How can you deduce that he is 'always uncomfortable' in his suits? The coat is certainly not tight - pulling at the buttoning point would be the dead giveaway. What you're probably referring to is the taper at the waist, a stylistic choice that most Savile Row tailors adhere too as well. Looks great.

    I won't comment on your expert assumption on Italian tailors.
     
  10. Cravate_Noire

    Cravate_Noire Senior member

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    There also two, maximum 3 of them around as wel...:embar:
     
  11. Ich_Dien

    Ich_Dien Senior member

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    TBH it looks feminine to me. Too much of an "X" and not a "V". His physique should call for more drape in the chest.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2013
  12. Zarium

    Zarium Senior member

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    Don't like the look one bit. Lapels look way too huge, almost ostentatiously pretentious.
     
  13. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Well, part of DB is having confidence in what you have to say. These could be a bit trimmer but I wouldn't change the basic look.

    One odd thing about Chan is that while they do very elegant large-bellied "swooping" peak lapels for SB jackets (morning coats and the like), they refuse to do the same for DB, as A&S do. For them, the notch must properly be nearly horizontal. I asked them to copy an old A&S suit of mine and while it came out very well in most respects, it had a completely different lapel line. When I tried to negotiate different for suit #2, they firmly said no.
     
  14. The Upright Man

    The Upright Man Senior member

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    I agree.

    I've noticed this style, not just with double-breasted jackets, but with many of the single breasted jackets too. Far too much waist suppression and generally too tight.

    It's not a good look.
     
  15. Zarium

    Zarium Senior member

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    I once read something about one of the Armoury guys trying to dictate a certain sort of "house cut" that Chan should adhere to, where the peak lapels have a horizontal notch. Perhaps that's why.

    In any case, I think the above DB's lapels look hideous and I'm not a fan of horizontal notch peak lapels at all.
    I agree. Too aggressive of a waist suppression. Don't like the look one bit.
     
  16. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Concordia -- Do they do a good job 'copying' your A & S? Any noticable difference in fit?
     
  17. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It won't be confused with the original. They measured that suit within an inch of its life (they've obviously taken on this kind of project before), but made a few aesthetic changes. The notches, as I said, and the contour of the lapel. (That's their call-- I didn't meet them at the Armoury.)

    At the first fitting, they tried to put in a lot of shoulder padding. I persuaded them to take out half of it and it still looks noticeably crisper than elderly A&S. Also, they were reluctant to move the armholes too tight. They did make the jacket a bit longer as well, and trimmed up the trouser legs (which might have needed it anyway).

    The result doesn't look especially A&S-like, and unlike the drape suit doesn't grab me under the arms. Rather, it floats on my shoulders. While I suspect they don't do the A&S Secret Sauce on the canvas, their preference for much lighter construction makes it very comfortable on the chest. Oddly enough, it actually fits me better than their first SB jacket. The armscyes aren't nearly as tight as I like them but the structure of the jacket holds them right where they should be in relation to my shoulders, so there's plenty of freedom to move. (Normally, I have found that tailors are more apt to screw up a DB than a SB early on, as there is less flexibility to adapt to a bad cut.)

    So-- all in all, a good suit, with prospects of even better ones to follow. But if I want A&S, I'll have to call London.
     
    1 person likes this.
  18. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I guess you have never seen the back of Alan's suit, since you don't live in Hong Kong.
    Italian seems to have poor taste on DB lapels, just saying.
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2013
  19. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Great. Do you mean lapels like this?

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2013
  20. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    The button position looks bad.
     

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