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lordsuperb

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30948976-164C-4F5D-9DEF-CF4B70C2DA1E.jpeg

1B00EEFA-CCFF-459D-BF2B-00B4234F74AF.jpeg

B7AD99E7-39B2-4F20-8BAB-9D2E090A2B5D.jpeg
 

lordsuperb

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What’re people’s thoughts on db peak lapel vs ulster lapel for an overcoat. It’s be a first bespoke overcoat.

I currently have a peacoat (rtw) & a sb 3/2 (rtw). Using the London lounge 1kg cashmere.
DB with English Tailor
Ulster with Italian Tailor
 

classicalthunde

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What’re people’s thoughts on db peak lapel vs ulster lapel for an overcoat. It’s be a first bespoke overcoat.

I currently have a peacoat (rtw) & a sb 3/2 (rtw). Using the London lounge 1kg cashmere.

Depends on what you're going for...peak is more formal, ulster more casual

I believe Vox's guards coat is made with the LL 1kg cashmere
 

Sreezy36

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What’re people’s thoughts on db peak lapel vs ulster lapel for an overcoat. It’s be a first bespoke overcoat.

I currently have a peacoat (rtw) & a sb 3/2 (rtw). Using the London lounge 1kg cashmere.
I’m with @lordsuperb on the idea:
Ulster-Italian
DB Peak-English

As far as your situation goes, you can go either way depending on how you choose to wear the coat most of the the time. For a more formal coat I would recommend the DB peak. For an “all-around” coat the ulster would be better.
 

brax

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Depends on what you're going for...peak is more formal, ulster more casual

I believe Vox's guards coat is made with the LL 1kg cashmere
So we have a bit of disagreement between Vox and Simon concerning coat formality. Vox’s overcoat has peak lapels and a half belt. A recent PS article counsels that a peak lapel overcoat should not have a half belt. Thoughts?
 

jonathanS

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I’m with @lordsuperb on the idea:
Ulster-Italian
DB Peak-English

As far as your situation goes, you can go either way depending on how you choose to wear the coat most of the the time. For a more formal coat I would recommend the DB peak. For an “all-around” coat the ulster would be better.
So we have a bit of disagreement between Vox and Simon concerning coat formality. Vox’s overcoat has peak lapels and a half belt. A recent PS article counsels that a peak lapel overcoat should not have a half belt. Thoughts?

the tailor in question is Milanese. i prefer Italian tailoring over English. I don’t think this will be my last overcoat.

My tailor also has camelhair overcoating fabric I was thinking of eventually using for an ulster or polo coat.

I was thinking about a half belt back regardless, but I definitely Understand Simon’s point about the formality of the db peak. Kirby, on the other hand, did an inverted pleat and half belt back for his Db peak. I was thinking If I did a db peak, I’d do the inverted pleat and half belt back bc a) I got enough fabric for it, b) my understanding is it’s more comfortable & c) it’d take it down in formality slightly yet still be useful with a tuxedo
 

Sreezy36

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the tailor in question is Milanese. i prefer Italian tailoring over English. I don’t think this will be my last overcoat.

My tailor also has camelhair overcoating fabric I was thinking of eventually using for an ulster or polo coat.

I was thinking about a half belt back regardless, but I definitely Understand Simon’s point about the formality of the db peak. Kirby, on the other hand, did an inverted pleat and half belt back for his Db peak. I was thinking If I did a db peak, I’d do the inverted pleat and half belt back bc a) I got enough fabric for it, b) my understanding is it’s more comfortable & c) it’d take it down in formality slightly yet still be useful with a tuxedo

I have this style saved for a future overcoat project to be made with a fixed belt and inverted pleat in the back. Black cloth in the 16-17 ounce range. Formal topcoat to be worn exclusively with suits, night time casual, and a tuxedo. This is the same collar style as my navy Ulster.

4B0EDD08-C49B-4A82-BEB9-119DA2FB8792.jpeg

my ulster
014D9B32-11CF-45FF-A9F6-81F84BA96F02.jpeg
 

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