Double Breasted Style.

[TheShetlandSweater]

@lordsuperb
Superb analysis lord! Who made the first navy DB?
These are all respected tailors so you can see it's difficult to fit and style for his physique.

I think that it is Dembech in cotton.

 

[Despos]

I think that it is Dembech in cotton.

If it is cotton it makes sense why it is made without much waist suppression.
Makes the suit even better knowing how difficult it is to tailor cotton.

 

[The Chai]

I agree with you on most of these, but several points.

1) Simon's pictures are taken from way too low down and this distorts his shoulders horribly and makes them look much smaller. I don't think most people realize how much a poorly placed camera can distort things. Many of his jackets look better in video. Some of his jackets like the Dalcuore and Ciardi that don't have shoulders that are built up much just look awful in these pictures. He has a later Dalcuore that looks much more flattering.
View attachment 1568923
2) I think Simon's physique has gotten bulkier over time so some of his older jackets don't fit as well.
3) I actually like the Kathryn Sargent and C&M. In general, I think he looks better with a structured shoulder. I also believe those are both older suits, hence the fit issues.

Now I've gotten a belly I get alot of skirt flare :-/

 

[9thsymph]

@9thsymph
So if you are deciding on a tailor to use do you first ask their height?

Joking aside, here is another ball-park explanation of what I meant by perspective in relation to proportion:

"In his Sophist, Plato speaks of two kinds of image-making. The first is a faithful reproduction, attempted to copy precisely the original. The second is intentionally distorted in order to make the copy appear correct to viewers. He gives the example of Greek statuary, which was crafted larger on the top than on the bottom so that viewers on the ground would see it correctly. If they could view it in scale, they would realize it was malformed. This example from the visual arts serves as a metaphor for the philosophical arts and the tendency of some philosophers to distort the truth so that it appears accurate unless viewed from the proper angle.[5] Nietzsche addresses the concept of simulacrum (but does not use the term) in the Twilight of the Idols, suggesting that most philosophers, by ignoring the reliable input of their senses and resorting to the constructs of language and reason, arrive at a distorted copy of reality."

 

[Despos]

Joking aside, here is another ball-park explanation of what I meant by perspective in relation to proportion:

"In his Sophist, Plato speaks of two kinds of image-making. The first is a faithful reproduction, attempted to copy precisely the original. The second is intentionally distorted in order to make the copy appear correct to viewers. He gives the example of Greek statuary, which was crafted larger on the top than on the bottom so that viewers on the ground would see it correctly. If they could view it in scale, they would realize it was malformed. This example from the visual arts serves as a metaphor for the philosophical arts and the tendency of some philosophers to distort the truth so that it appears accurate unless viewed from the proper angle.[5] Nietzsche addresses the concept of simulacrum (but does not use the term) in the Twilight of the Idols, suggesting that most philosophers, by ignoring the reliable input of their senses and resorting to the constructs of language and reason, arrive at a distorted copy of reality."

@9thsymph
Yeah, that pretty much sums it up!

 

[dieworkwear]

I would describe my style with a single Nietzsche quote: God is dead.

 

[Mr. Six]

@Mr. Six @lordsuperb

What do you guys see in the SB’s you would change?
Have never cut a jacket for anyone with his shoulders and shoulder blades. I’m more adept at high, square shoulders than extreme sloping shoulders.
Would be a challenge

@lordsuperb pretty much nailed it. More holistically, I feel like often the trousers and jackets often look like they're for two different people. The lines of the jacket and the lines of the trousers don't flow together. It does seem like Simon has some particularly challenging aspects to his shape, and a number of tailors are trying too much to account for those and not paying enough attention to ensuring that the end result achieves a specific silhouette. I also agree with the comment that many of the photos are shot from a poor angle that's distorting issues--the photos out on the street often look better.

 

[NakedYoga]

Piggy backing off the discussion of the various Simon Crompton suits, what is the proper alteration for the lower back being too tight and accentuating the S curve of a man who actually has an ass?

 

[ballmouse]

I wonder if he provides directions for the tailors or if the tailors are cutting suits how they want to for him.

 

[lordsuperb]

 

[Despos]

I wonder if he provides directions for the tailors or if the tailors are cutting suits how they want to for him.

Seems to me if you write an honest review about a tailor's style and fit you would leave it all to them. If the tailor takes direction from Simon then the review is who interpreted my ideas the best and doesn't honestly show the tailors own perspective of how he would make a garment for him.

 

[ballmouse]

Agreed. I wondered though since I haven't read his blog. But also because the conversation is a big part of bespoke suits. If the tailor has trouble considering feedback or making changes or dismisses things a customer wants changed, that's important to note.

I don't know what most bespoke suit customers are thinking when they buy a suit, but there's got to be some (at least those that are following a fashion blog) that want to be a part of the process with ideas and whatnot. If he's not documenting things from that point of view, then maybe it's an idea worth considering.

 

[Despos]

Agreed. I wondered though since I haven't read his blog. But also because the conversation is a big part of bespoke suits. If the tailor has trouble considering feedback or making changes or dismisses things a customer wants changed, that's important to note.

I don't know what most bespoke suit customers are thinking when they buy a suit, but there's got to be some (at least those that are following a fashion blog) that want to be a part of the process with ideas and whatnot. If he's not documenting things from that point of view, then maybe it's an idea worth considering.

For me it's the opposite of what you might think. 98% of my clients don't want to be involved. Don't know the percentage but the majority don't follow clothing blogs.
I make sure I understand how they want the suit to "feel" not "look" . That's what they get hooked on. If the clothes fit well they look good. It's a byproduct of getting fit and proportions right. Why wear a garment that looks great but doesn't feel good?
98% get the same style they prefer over and over. Many adapt a style as their signature and repeat it with every garment, like 1 button, peak. None of this changing this or that on this one or let's try this on another. That part is an internet thing, me thinks. Never had a client who wanted variation amongst their garments beyond choosing SB, DB or change of lapel stye or having patch pockets for a specific jacket/purpose.
From my experience it's puzzled me when someone says they wear so many variations. Exception; variation in cloth types and weight. Even then, have clients who buy the same weight for everything they wear.
Hesitate to post something contrary to much of the discussion of a site like this but that's my client profile.

 

[ballmouse]

That's a good point. I agree most folks don't want to deal with the hassle. I'm wondering if he's ever mentioned what (if anything) he says to the tailors. After all he's a fashion blogger and he has started selling his own products (or partnering with others who do). And it might be interesting to see a comparison of bespoke suits from the same tailoring house with zero input and with some input.

 

[lordsuperb]