Double Breasted Style.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., May 29, 2008.

  1. forex

    forex Senior member

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    $$$

    Chan is too expensive for me to use regularly. For special commissions that I think need the extra details I'll use them. For more casual items I'll use Peter Lee. I used Peter before to get a SB Navy Fresco suit so now I'm just adding a DB jacket to it. It'll also be interesting to compare the two tailors and their styles.


    Unless you make frequent business trips to HK,I don't see how using Chan or PL can be cheaper than using a local tailor. I am still hesitant to use Chan due to my inability to have fittings. I am thinking to try Caruso MTM which is in the $1200-1600 price range.
     
  2. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    Unless you make frequent business trips to HK,I don't see how using Chan or PL can be cheaper than using a local tailor. I am still hesitant to use Chan due to my inability to have fittings. I am thinking to try Caruso MTM which is in the $1200-1600 price range.

    That I do. :^) I'm there once or twice a season for all the wine auctions over there these days.
     
  3. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    Cross post from today's WAYWN...here are some better pics of my recent DB from Chan in Minnis Air Force Blue Flannel.

    Comments welcome as I plan on getting another DB flannel from Chan at some point.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    The Air force blue flannel is looking good on the picture...

    I'm always looking for interesting shades of dark blue.

    I have to get a sample .
     
  4. aj_del

    aj_del Senior member

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    Thanks for the observations. All things I actually considered with this. I think for my next commission in medium gray flannel I will make the buttons a bit lower, but not quite as low as you mention here. I agree that I would have preferred the lapel to cover the breast pocket a bit. I think the lapels could be a slight touch wider, but also the breast pocket should be 1/4 inch higher.




    Well, the more I look at it the more I think the button placement is very high. And lowering the placement substantially will look much better than lowering it just a bit
     
  5. jamesbond

    jamesbond Senior member

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    Well, the more I look at it the more I think the button placement is very high. And lowering the placement substantially will look much better than lowering it just a bit

    The picture seems to be taken either by a midget or from way below the waist which might add to the heightened affect your seeing.
     
  6. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    The picture seems to be taken either by a midget or from way below the waist which might add to the heightened affect your seeing.

    Yep. The picture was taken from a short distance from a table that is set around top-thigh.

    The Air force blue flannel is looking good on the picture...

    I'm always looking for interesting shades of dark blue.

    I have to get a sample .


    I HIGHLY recommend this fabric. Truly a fantastic, distinctive a shade of blue.

    Well, the more I look at it the more I think the button placement is very high. And lowering the placement substantially will look much better than lowering it just a bit

    While I agree that would look better for most people I'm not yet convinced that's what best for my build and frame. I might be wrong. I'll test things out at the next basted fitting. As of now I plan on getting the buttons on the Navy Fresco DB around 1/4 inch lower than these and the buttons on the Smith medium gray flannel DB around 1/2 inch lower. Regardless, I stopped by Tender Buttons today and found some fantastic buttons for both jackets.
     
  7. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Thanks for the observations. All things I actually considered with this. I think for my next commission in medium gray flannel I will make the buttons a bit lower, but not quite as low as you mention here. I agree that I would have preferred the lapel to cover the breast pocket a bit. I think the lapels could be a slight touch wider, but also the breast pocket should be 1/4 inch higher.


    Thanks! I was surprised and delighted at how well the form of a DB suit seems to fit me. When I am in HK next week I'll be getting two more - a medium gray flannel in Smith #2546 from Chan and a H&S Navy Fresco from Peter Lee. I'll be sure to post the results.


    1) Did you ask for your lapels to be a little smaller? The lapels of my DB from Chan covers a bit of the pocket and the pocket square.

    2) I like your flannel DB. I was going to put a moratorium on more clothes spending but you got me thinking of getting another. [​IMG]

    3) I've 2 H&S frescos including one in Navy. They are fantastic. I would get them at half lined though.
     
  8. aj_del

    aj_del Senior member

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    As of now I plan on getting the buttons on the Navy Fresco DB around 1/4 inch lower than these and the buttons on the Smith medium gray flannel DB around 1/2 inch lower.

    I was suggesting around 1.5 to 2 inches lower. [​IMG]
     
  9. Slewfoot

    Slewfoot Senior member

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    1) Did you ask for your lapels to be a little smaller? The lapels of my DB from Chan covers a bit of the pocket and the pocket square.

    2) I like your flannel DB. I was going to put a moratorium on more clothes spending but you got me thinking of getting another. [​IMG]

    3) I've 2 H&S frescos including one in Navy. They are fantastic. I would get them at half lined though.


    Do it! :^) And yes, I did ask for the lapels to be a bit smaller than normal. I'll probably do my others around 3/8 of an inch wider.

    I was suggesting around 1.5 to 2 inches lower. [​IMG]

    I figured as much, but I don't think I'll go that low this round.
     
  10. LabelKing

    LabelKing Senior member

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    My favorite double-breasted. You shall note the narrow waist, just how I like them. [​IMG]
     
  11. apropos

    apropos Senior member

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    ^ Not bad LK, not bad at all.

    FWIW, your lapels bear more than a passing resemblence to Ulster lapels.
     
  12. JayJay

    JayJay Senior member

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    ^^^LK, the db looks nice.
     
  13. amplifiedheat

    amplifiedheat Senior member

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    My favorite double-breasted.

    You shall note the narrow waist, just how I like them.

    [​IMG]


    The shirt and tie are awful, and I haven't decided whether the lapels are glorious or grotesque. The cut, though, is something else.
     
  14. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    The shirt and tie are awful, and I haven't decided whether the lapels are glorious or grotesque. The cut, though, is something else.

    Labelking has a very distinctive look and cannot be judged with the same tailoring canons than anyone else on Style Forum.

    The suit has flair and is well adapted to his look but on somebody else ,it could be a car crash..

    His slim frame is also helping to give the sense of geometry in the suit.
     
  15. luftvier

    luftvier Senior member

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    Labelking has a very distinctive look and cannot be judged with the same tailoring canons than anyone else on Style Forum.

    The suit has flair and is well adapted to his look but on somebody else ,it could be a car crash..

    His slim frame is also helping to give the sense of geometry in the suit.


    Agreed. LK always looks dashed good in his own right.
     

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