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Double Breasted Style.

9thsymph

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I've also recently noted that the Armoury puts navy buttons on nearly all of their navy SCs, presumably so they work with both brown and black shoes(?). The cloth, weave and pocket style usually signal the jacket as a separate, so not sure if there is a way to triangulate a middle-ground blazer suit. Probably not...?
 

The Chai

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I've also recently noted that the Armoury puts navy buttons on nearly all of their navy SCs, presumably so they work with both brown and black shoes(?). The cloth, weave and pocket style usually signal the jacket as a separate, so not sure if there is a way to triangulate a middle-ground blazer suit. Probably not...?
U said it yourself. It’s kinda a middle ground approach. U get abit of everything but no whole of something. I like navy buttons for the fact that it matches with both black and brown shoes hence why my suits have time. Looks really good on mohair too compared to dark brown horn. But I think dark brown horn is a better option than navy if u want a blazer. Not the best option but still arguably better. And it matches with black and brown shoes.
 

clee1982

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4x1 RTW, yea! might just get this one once on sale...
 

yanagi

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Have any of had (or seen) success with a DB blazer suit? I'm thinking about commissioning a navy suit with patch pockets, but in a fabric and weave (hopsack?) that would allow the jacket to be worn seperately as a blazer, albeit with navy buttons. Could this work well, or would the patch pockets ruin the suit vibe, while the navy buttons ruin the blazer vibe?
FWIW, I commissioned a DB blazer (not a blazer suit) with "the" Minnis mock leno (510244), and my tailor suggested blue mother-of-pearl buttons:
Buttons 1.jpg
As far as I can tell, "standard" navy suits tend to have black plastic or horn buttons, not blue or navy, and definitely not MOP.
 

Bespoke DJP

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Dear @9thsymph,

I firmly believe that the so called "Blazersuit" needs to have certain features in order - like our fellow @The Chai correctly noted above - not to look like an "orphaned" suit jacket.

IMHO, its main characteristic has to be a textured fabric; as an example and only, a w/s/l fabric for the spring (or even early fall) would be easily matched with smoother surfaced pairs of trousers and pass as a blazer. For the winter, navy flannel can also be a candidate for this make-up and I have seen several successful attempts. In light of this, I would totally keep clear from worsted fabrics.

A second feature has to be a soft(er) shoulder, reminiscent of the ones chosen for Sport Coats; a more structured shoulder is a pivotal element of suits.

Patch pockets ought to be present, but in this case, you would have to forgo the use of this navy suit in more formal occasions; life is a trade-off!

Finally, the buttons: if you do not at all fancy dark brown horn ones (which I urge you to consider), and you insist on navy ones, I would try unpolished navy buttons; you may check the difference between polished/unpolished in theliningcompany.co.uk.

Best,

Dimitris
 

dan'l

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Although I consider myself a meticulous person, I never considered matching the buttons on my sport coat or suit to my shoes. I think it is much more important that the buttons compliment the fabric.
 

9thsymph

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Although I consider myself a meticulous person, I never considered matching the buttons on my sport coat or suit to my shoes. I think it is much more important that the buttons compliment the fabric.
weird flex but ok
 

lordsuperb

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Have any of had (or seen) success with a DB blazer suit? I'm thinking about commissioning a navy suit with patch pockets, but in a fabric and weave (hopsack?) that would allow the jacket to be worn seperately as a blazer, albeit with navy buttons. Could this work well, or would the patch pockets ruin the suit vibe, while the navy buttons ruin the blazer vibe?
They solved this problem a while ago.

 

am55

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They solved this problem a while ago.

I've occasionally shared the article with friends who are frequent bespoke customers, and the women of their lives, and got almost universally bad feedback from both, much as I personally like the idea. Admittedly most were bankers.
 

9thsymph

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They solved this problem a while ago.

Haha...Yeah, but I was hoping for an updated take...I will never fathom ordering a jacket with removable buttons...

I think the answer, especially in the case of a DB, is to defer to the suit identity, but with a few details that hopefully mitigate the orphaned-suit phenomenon when the jacket is worn separately. In other words, I think it's better to have a proper suit than a proper SC.

I think I can make it work in a more casual cloth in either navy or brown...

Wish me luck!
 

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