Double Breasted Style.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., May 29, 2008.

  1. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This question has probably come up already, if not in this thread then elsewhere, but -

    I've a long torso and short legs, and in a typical DB I expect that the flaw would only be exaggerated - unless, I suppose, I wore it open always.
    Is there any style, any tweak, any alternative cut that would help a DB to work for me, or ought I to give up on the idea?


    Raising the point of the waist line on the jacket helps define your waist and lengthens your legs. Women in general have long legs and shorter torso and their natural waist is higher. If you have the jacket shaped just above where your love handles appear and just a touch above the button position it will balance out the upper/lower proportions. Jacket length on a DB should be 1/4" to 1/2" shorter than your single breasted jackets.
     


  2. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Attolini for Luciano Barbera:

    [​IMG]


    - B


    Looks great. Why are the sleeves so wrinkled?
    Is it the fabric?, or does this RTW jacket not
    accommodate your massive muscular arms?
     


  3. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Looks great. Why are the sleeves so wrinkled?
    Is it the fabric?


    Yes, it is the fabric: a cotton nailhead, almost the weight of a denim. Very wrinkle prone like linen, and part of the jacket's charm.


    - B
     


  4. lasbar

    lasbar Senior member

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    Vox ,the db jacket looks good..
    You 're so much braver in your sartorial choices than me...
     


  5. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Steed (Edwin DeBoise) bespoke:

    [​IMG]


    - B
     


  6. MBreinin

    MBreinin Senior member

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    Steed (Edwin DeBoise) bespoke:

    [​IMG]


    - B


    Love it. Very elegant look, Vox.
     


  7. manofstyle

    manofstyle Senior member

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    Steed (Edwin DeBoise) bespoke:

    [​IMG]


    - B


    Good ensemble. Your pants are too slim though, looks top heavy. Wear straight legs.
     


  8. stant62

    stant62 Senior member

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    I disagree. I like the contrast between the slim trousers and the full chest.
     


  9. Steven Aver

    Steven Aver Senior member

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    Good ensemble. Your pants are too slim though, looks top heavy. Wear straight legs.

    I disagree, its a signature look and very "Vox".
     


  10. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Steed (Edwin DeBoise) bespoke:

    [​IMG]


    - B


    I prefer the Attolini, even though I usually like British ( A&S version)
    over Italian clothing. The Attolini seems to have more shape and isn't
    it a bit longer? As for the color of the Attolini, too adventurous for
    me.
     


  11. Luddite

    Luddite Senior member

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    Good ensemble. Your pants are too slim though, looks top heavy. Wear straight legs.

    I disagree entirely.

    But, then, I like many other juvenile and feminine stylistic elements...
     


  12. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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    Love it. Very elegant look, Vox.

    Good ensemble. Your pants are too slim though, looks top heavy. Wear straight legs.

    I disagree. I like the contrast between the slim trousers and the full chest.

    I disagree, its a signature look and very "Vox".

    I disagree entirely.

    But, then, I like many other juvenile and feminine stylistic elements...


    I would say that the linen trousers in that photograph are neigher slim nor full. They have full double pleats going into an 8.5 inch hem.

    I prefer the Attolini, even though I usually like British ( A&S version)
    over Italian clothing. The Attolini seems to have more shape and isn't
    it a bit longer? As for the color of the Attolini, too adventurous for
    me.


    Since you like A&S, I suspect that you would reverse your opinion in real life. A straight on standing pose reveals some things, but not others.

    I like them both...but then, I would. The Attolini is not remotely in the same league as the Steed, however, in terms of how well it fits. There is only so much that can be done in RTW cotton.


    - B
     


  13. Pennywise the Clown

    Pennywise the Clown Well-Known Member

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    I think you have to be of a certain age to pull off a DB. Preferably 35-40+ plus and wear it with the right attitude. It says 'power' and 'prestige' to me for those that can pull it off. Any younger guys I think it would be harder to pull off. Reminds me of the graduate who turned up in the office on his first day wearing a blue w/white colar shirt & suspenders trying to be like Gordon Gekko and how he got laughed out of town, lol
     


  14. fuji

    fuji Senior member

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    I think young people look good in very fitted double breasted jackets if they have quite a slim build. I'm very young and slim and essentially all my coats and jackets are double breasted and very fitted and they look much better then single breasted.
     


  15. DutchDaedalus

    DutchDaedalus Senior member

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