Double Breasted Style.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by whnay., May 29, 2008.

  1. razl

    razl Senior member

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    Thanks for chiming in!

    Good example. After leaving the conversation, I had mentally sketched something similar and realized that, whatever you do with the bottom front quarters, it won't be like a SB because there's the overlapping sides of material. You'll get, well, what Finamore did here - some creative cornering, but still no "break" between the seams like an SB or when a DB has "the pull" with the hand in the pocket; that second layer of fabric behind it is, well, there. As an aside, I thought if someone got real radical with it, you'd end up with a split at the bottom, like an inverted V, that would (ahem) draw focus to the trouser's zipper which probably wouldn't work well either...

    Great observation and something that I now see was part of what I was sensing but not realizing. While I don't have wide hips, I also don't have that wide-shoulder-to-narrow-hip triangle that DBs really flatter. I suspect that's been part of what I haven't liked about them on me...

    edit: it occurred to me that men of more portly stature, think Churchill, look fine if not better in a DB. So it's almost as if you have to be the athletic triangle to get that rakish look, but it surprisingly also does well if you're a larger than usual gent; maybe the extra double layer actually reduces the visual "strain" of a single breasted jacket, taut across. Know what I mean? And maybe it's really the fellows in the middle, like me, where it doesn't work as well. I think there's something here....

    Yep, you're understanding my points entirely. I'm just wondering, and maybe it's just not possible, how to capture the visual qualities of the "hand in pocket DB" look at rest without the actual hand in pocket. I'm almost convinced it's not doable. And, like you - and others have said - I might be agonizing over stills that, in real life, never really rest that way anyway; in motion the problem doesn't (hardly) exist. Hmmm. Still mulling.

    Regardless, thanks for the thoughtful insights!
     


  2. jonathanS

    jonathanS Senior member

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    Not sure if it helps. But some other thoughts: a double breasted suit crested a definite "Y" shape to the individual rather than a "x" or hourglass shape that a single breasted from say liverano may create.

    As noted previously the db does cut a person's figure in half right at an awkward place (right around / under the hips). Which may be why I personally have never been a fan of double breasted sportscoats / blazers. I remember a conversation with a bespoke tailor where I told him I wasn't a fan of double breasted sportscoats but could not put my finger on why, exactly, I did not like them. Relating to the "Y" figure, it makes sense now.

    Not sure if this was helpful, but just some additional thoughts.
     


  3. razl

    razl Senior member

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    That's a very simple and interesting observation, I hadn't thought of it like that but you're right - that the natural split in a SB at the bottom helps form an X whereas the DB, without it, is like a Y. Now that I think of it like that, I can see better how certain body shapes better fit the strategy or not.

    I know we're not breaking new ground here for the already well versed, but thanks for mulling the "I can't quite put my finger on it" idiosyncrasies of DBs with me. Here's hoping with my new insights I'll have a better eye towards finding one that works for me.
     


  4. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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  5. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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    Who made your suit?
     


  6. roostertailedcow

    roostertailedcow Member

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  7. lordsuperb

    lordsuperb Senior member

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  8. sldsd

    sldsd Active Member

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    Colors70_BeijingPresentation07.JPG


    Luciano Benetton in Corduroy
     
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2017 at 1:08 PM


  9. sldsd

    sldsd Active Member

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