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Double Breasted Style, Shorter than Single Breasted?

Superfluous

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Two of the same sport coats from the same company, the same size, but the single breasted version is about an inch longer. Why? Do you generally wear shorter double breasted coats?
 

BlackBrumel

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Originally Posted by Tony Romo
Two of the same sport coats from the same company, the same size, but the single breasted version is about an inch longer. Why? Do you generally wear shorter double breasted coats?

Is this a general rule?
 

Superfluous

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No, its an observation of two exact same sport coats from the same season, just single breasted vs double breasted. So I was asking if its the norm. Are db's usually shorter than single breasted?
 

Srynerson

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Originally Posted by Tony Romo
No, its an observation of two exact same sport coats from the same season, just single breasted vs double breasted. So I was asking if its the norm. Are db's usually shorter than single breasted?

There's anecdotal evidence that DBs are actually cut slightly longer than SBs by the same maker. On the other hand, some people argue that a DB should be cut shorter to achieve the same visual "bottom line" as an SB.

See discussion here: http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/f...-jacket-length
 

Will C.

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DBs can be longer.... due to the spread between buttons being a little wider on a DB.
 

Superfluous

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I found a post from despos saying that dbs should be slightly shorter... I'm confused. Id like to buy this jacket, but its a tad shorterthan I'm used to... not sure if its part of the db look or not.
 

TheEdwardian

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You can lengthen them if they have a seam allowance to do it. It has nothing intrinsic to do with the nature or quality of the coat.

In terms of what 'should' be done, I don't think there is a definitive answer, but a quick check reveals by DBs are slightly shorter. If you aren't having the thing made, it's purely visual: d you think it looks better? The 'grabbing your skirts' test is not a bad one.
 

BlackBrumel

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I own both SBs and DBs (two from RL). All of them are about 31,5'' length.
 

TheFoo

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Conventional wisdom dictates that double-breasted jackets be slightly shorter than a single-breasted jacket on the same pattern, but that's not a hard-and-fast rule and one inch sounds like a lot. My double-breasted jackets are only cut a centimeter shorter.
 

CHITON

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
Conventional wisdom dictates that double-breasted jackets be slightly shorter than a single-breasted jacket on the same pattern, but that's not a hard-and-fast rule and one inch sounds like a lot. My double-breasted jackets are only cut a centimeter shorter.

+1

DB has to be shorter for the same pattern.
 

awxg

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Originally Posted by mafoofan
Conventional wisdom dictates that double-breasted jackets be slightly shorter than a single-breasted jacket on the same pattern, but that's not a hard-and-fast rule and one inch sounds like a lot. My double-breasted jackets are only cut a centimeter shorter.

What is the reason for this?
 

Jermyn

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I have always been naturally inclined to have my DBs altered a little shorter than my SBs.
This is not because of a 'rule' that I am adhering to but rather a preference that has emerged from having garments altered individually, to give me the cut that I think looks best on me.

I imagine that this is because of the fact that the quarters on a SB jacket are open thus creating a 'closing point' an inch or two higher than the actual bottom of the jacket (the point where the quarters close).

Taken to a logical conclusion: the more open the qurters, the longer the jacket can be. An example of this would be a morning tailcoat - very open and very long.

Maybe one of the more experienced SFers can chime in on this.
 

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