Double Breasted Jacket: Blind button thread running through inside of breast pocket

[iurvox]

I own several double-breasted jackets and coats.


They are 6x2 configurations and have a breast pocket for the pocket square. Hovering over the outside of that breast pocket is one of the 4 blind buttons, obviously.


Now, on some jackets, the thread that attaches the blind button to the jacket is going through the outer layer of the fabric and through the inside of the breast pocket. This means that pocket squares physically cannot go all the way to the bottom of the breast pocket. Rather, they get stuck a the spot where the blind button is located, due to the blind button's thread running through the inside of the breast pocket.


I have this on one lined and on one unlined jacket of different manufacturers.


Funny thing is, I actually have two identical RTW jackets sitting here, both ordered within a few weeks from a well-known source. I was about to return one of those jackets due to quality issues (different topic). Now, I just realized that one of both jackets has the blind button sewn through the breast pocket, while the other jacket has the blind button thread only go through the outer fabric. On the latter jacket, I checked the inside of the breast pocket to look for any "hole" which might indicate that there has been a thread in the past. Could not spot such hole, I guess the blind button had never been sewn through in the first place.


Is the thread going through the inside of the breast pocket a random manufacturing flaw? Or is it done by design, i.e. a feature? If so, then why does one of my two identical jackets have this "feature", and one does not? Thanks!

 

[Andy57]

Is the threat going through the inside of the breast pocket a random manufacturing flaw? Or is it done by design, i.e. a feature? If so, then why does one of my two identical jackets have this "feature", and one does not? Thanks!

I don't know if it's a random flaw, but it's a flaw, certainly. I would interpret it as lazy manufacture.

 

[GBR]

I would certainly agree with Andy57, it is a badly made garment which should be returned whence it came. However it is not a flaw, all its siblings will be exactly the same as that is what the factory is paid to produce.

However, this "On the latter jacket, I checked the inside of the breast pocket to look for any "hole" which might indicated that there has been a thread in the past" suggests it is second hand and therefore this would not be a flaw as such merely a cheapskate garment.

 

[iurvox]

Gentlemen, thank you.

As for the "latter jacket": It was a SuitSupply pre-order and came in the instant it hit the shelves. Hardly a chance another customer owned it before.

I guess it depends on the way the worker attaches that button. The worker will probably have at hand the entire outer fabric, including the integrated breast pocket layer (it is not a patch pocket). Attaching the button, the worker will then either stop the needle stitches right behind the outer shell (i.e. with the needle right inside the breast pocket) or he will sew all the through. In the latter case, due to the addition of the jacket's inner fabric layer and/or lining, that stitch will become invisible on the inside of the jacket. But it will affect the inside of the breast pocket and possiby the drape of that blind button. The blind button will always remain close to the chest/shirt, even if the pocket is filled with a voluminously folded square.