Dormeuil Amadeus vs. H&S Target 10-11 oz

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by morsem, Aug 9, 2006.

  1. morsem

    morsem Active Member

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    So I'm looking for some of the best Super 100-120's heavyweight worsteds out there. I have found Dormeuil Amadeus, an 11oz super 100's and the Holland and Sherry Target 10-11 oz book of super 120's.

    Does anyone have experience with these goods, and what would be your feedback?

    Tailorability, drape (major, major thing), finish, durability... etc...

    Your help is appreciated.
     


  2. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    I'd email Chris Despos. He'd know and have alternative recommendations.
    He knows fabric like nobody's business.[​IMG] [​IMG]
     


  3. morsem

    morsem Active Member

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    Any contact info?
     


  4. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    Any contact info?

    I sent him a message he'll probably give you a response soon. You can also post your question directly to him on AAAC as he usually hangs there a little more than here, he's really sharp on fabrics.
     


  5. horton

    horton Senior member

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    I'd also suggest considering other sources, e.g., Lesser
     


  6. countdemoney

    countdemoney Senior member

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    So I'm looking for some of the best Super 100-120's heavyweight worsteds out there. I have found Dormeuil Amadeus, an 11oz super 100's and the Holland and Sherry Target 10-11 oz book of super 120's.

    Does anyone have experience with these goods, and what would be your feedback?

    Tailorability, drape (major, major thing), finish, durability... etc...

    Your help is appreciated.


    Heavywieght?
    10oz? Isn't 10-11oz considered shirting fabric?
    [​IMG]

    H. Lesser is usually the gold standard for worsteds, but specific H&S books can be very good as can offerings from Smith, Harrisons and a few others. I'm sure other more knowledgeable members can provide more choices.

    If you want real drape and can handle the consequent heat, move up to the 13oz and higher ranges. Real cloth in those weights.

    Be sure to talk with your tailor too. You want a cloth that he is comfortable using.
     


  7. whoopee

    whoopee Senior member

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    The Target books is better than the Dormeuil. Also worht a look are H&S Snowy River (100s, 11/12 oz I believe), Harrison's Premier Cru (10/11 oz 100s and cashmere) and Cru classe (9/10 oz 120s and cashmere), Smith (10/11 100s). And of course Lumb's Golden Bale from Lesser (11 has the far better selection, but the 13 is gorgeous and will tailor better of course). H&S and Harrisons make more exciting designs, with H&S being the most notably modern. There's also Scabal 100s and 120s (+ cashmere). I don't think it has the same firmness of guts as the others, certainly not Lesser. In that subcategory of more modern makers, I would prefer H&S over Scabal (and Dormeuil). If you like the designs, or lack thereof, Golden Bale is to be preferred over all. This is if you need supers.

    And I agree, 10/11 is not heavy at all. If you want heavy/winter, every reputable merchant have a good 13oz book, from Lesser (Lumb's and non), Smith, Harrison's/LBD, H&S (perennial). In descening order of quality, though the differences are very fine - only become really noticeable if you compare poles, like Lesser and H&S. Unfortunately it is difficult to find good supers at this weight. The finish is usually drier. But it will drape and tailor better and last a very very long time.
     


  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Whoopee's and Soph's advice is spot on. The Target 120's would be my choice of the 2 you named. Tailors very well. The Scabal cloth to compare with is the Saville Row books. Three harness goods. Tailors and wears well. Lessers is a notch above anything else mentioned. But the H&S Target is very good.
    I agree 10 to 11 oz is mid weight unless you live in the South or Southwest.
     


  9. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    Whoopee's and Soph's advice is spot on. The Target 120's would be my choice of the 2 you named. Tailors very well. The Scabal cloth to compare with is the Saville Row books. Three harness goods. Tailors and wears well. Lessers is a notch above anything else mentioned. But the H&S Target is very good.
    I agree 10 to 11 oz is mid weight unless you live in the South or Southwest.



    --That'd be Whoopee's. I'm not up on fabrics like Whoopee or you. I'd need a course. Fabric 102: advanced cloth.
     


  10. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    he's really sharp on fabrics.

    Your statement is very insightful.
     


  11. Soph

    Soph Senior member

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    Your statement is very insightful.

    --- I try[​IMG]
    ------So how's the Kiton/Attolini beater cut coming?
     


  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I am progressing. Found some new fabrics to experiment making canvassessss with. I am going off the deep end on lapel shapes and such. You'll see.
     


  13. FCS

    FCS Senior member

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    Gotta agree with the above, 10/11 oz is fairly light. Having tried heavy cloths, I don't think I would go back to anything below 14oz. I picked these 15/16 oz pinstripe worsteds from H&S: http://www.hollandandsherry.com/coll...005/hs615.html and also the 17/18 oz from Viceroy Flannels: http://www.hollandandsherry.com/coll...003/hs319.html I'm quite happy with the 'feel' and the drape and my tailor also gave a positive review, but haven't had any of them made into suits (work-in-progress, one suit at a time). Mr. Despos, any comment on these fabrics?
     


  14. kitonbrioni

    kitonbrioni Senior member

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    Perhaps you need to ask to see the whole bolt and then you can feel and view what your suit will look like. With this quality there should not be any problems for a tailor.
     


  15. Roger

    Roger Senior member

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    Morsem, are you looking for pure worsteds or, perhaps, worsted flannels as well? I've bought worsted flannels from the H&S Viceroy book in 11/12 oz. To my eye and touch, they are better than the Scabal 120s worsted flannel. Whoopee, the Lumb's Golden Bale is a worsted flannel, if I remember correctly. I think that Morsem has to decide between worsted and worsted flannel before nailing this down.
     


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