Donegal jacket - fully lined or not?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by gusvs, Dec 31, 2008.

  1. gusvs

    gusvs Senior member

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    I am making up a jacket in a dark brown H&S 12 Oz Donegal Tweed.

    http://www.hollandandsherry.com/page...d_II_hs546.htm

    I am doing a 3 roll 2, unconstructed with 2 patch pockets and welted breast pocket. However, I have still not decided on the lining - my tailor recommends full lining due to the rough structure of the tweed. Normally, I prefer softer jackets and am therefore considering quarter lined (only to cover the shoulders). What do you all think, is it unwise to go with a quarter lined tweed jacket?

    //G
     
  2. voxsartoria

    voxsartoria Goon member

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  3. jmacak

    jmacak Active Member

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    Hi

    I like mine partially lined, like the example Vox indicated above. I think it looks better and don't really feel that you need that much sliding action at your lower back.
     
  4. July

    July Well-Known Member

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    I wouldn't get it quarter-lined.

    gusvs, is that 885500?

    If so, I commissioned a jacket in that same fabric and almost the exact same style. I requested that it be half-lined. I tried on the basted model a few weeks ago (without the lining yet put in). It is rather scratchy, and it wasn't much fun to get in and out of without the lining (especially in the sleeves). That said, I get a relatively slim cut on my jackets.
     
  5. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    At this very moment I am wearing a jacket made of that exact same H&S brown Donegal tweed. The only point I can see in half-lining or quarter-lining a jacket is for wear in very hot weather. Since this is not a hot-weather fabric, I don't see why you would even raise the question. Go with full lining.
     
  6. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I believe the 12 ounce H&S Donegal is a worsted imitation of tweed. Get a full lining.
     
  7. JLibourel

    JLibourel Senior member

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    I believe the 12 ounce H&S Donegal is a worsted imitation of tweed. Get a full lining.

    Could you please clarify that, Will? I could certainly comprehend someone saying that of the Porter & Harding Glorious Twelfth fabrics, but the H&S 12-ounce Donegal seems very tweed-like to me. If so, what exactly differentiates a worsted masquerading as a tweed from a true tweed?
     
  8. gusvs

    gusvs Senior member

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    Check out the 1936 Meyer & Mortimer partways down on the first page of one of my old threads.


    - B


    Looks very good Bill. It's not scratchy at all?

    I wouldn't get it quarter-lined.

    gusvs, is that 885500?

    If so, I commissioned a jacket in that same fabric and almost the exact same style. I requested that it be half-lined. I tried on the basted model a few weeks ago (without the lining yet put in). It is rather scratchy, and it wasn't much fun to get in and out of without the lining (especially in the sleeves). That said, I get a relatively slim cut on my jackets.


    Yes, I believe it is the 885500.

    At this very moment I am wearing a jacket made of that exact same H&S brown Donegal tweed. The only point I can see in half-lining or quarter-lining a jacket is for wear in very hot weather. Since this is not a hot-weather fabric, I don't see why you would even raise the question. Go with full lining.

    The reason I like my jackets quarter lined is not so much for the coolness, it is rather the softness and cardigan-like feeling of the finished jacket. I can see what you mean though with the full lining (which is why I am questioning my own urge for the quarter lining this time).

    Hmm, I have to think this over a bit more I believe...
     
  9. Will

    Will Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Could you please clarify that, Will? I could certainly comprehend someone saying that of the Porter & Harding Glorious Twelfth fabrics, but the H&S 12-ounce Donegal seems very tweed-like to me. If so, what exactly differentiates a worsted masquerading as a tweed from a true tweed?

    As you know, tweed is a woolen. I thought that H&S described its Donegals as worsteds but I checked and my memory was faulty.
     
  10. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    I'd get it fully lined; the jacket will be less likely to get caught up on your shirt. I don't think the amount of lining affects the way a jacket looks from the outside.
     
  11. AndrewRogers

    AndrewRogers Senior member

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    I'd get it fully lined; the jacket will be less likely to get caught up on your shirt. I don't think the amount of lining affects the way a jacket looks from the outside.

    +1 and there would be no 'thermal' benefit to leaving the back unlined, with this sort of cloth, anyway. Good luck with it; it sounds lovely :)
     
  12. gusvs

    gusvs Senior member

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    I'd get it fully lined; the jacket will be less likely to get caught up on your shirt. I don't think the amount of lining affects the way a jacket looks from the outside.

    +1 and there would be no 'thermal' benefit to leaving the back unlined, with this sort of cloth, anyway. Good luck with it; it sounds lovely :)

    Thanks. I think I will go fully lined. Will post pictures when it's finished.
     
  13. JayJay

    JayJay Senior member

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    I think fully lined is the way to go with the Donegal jacket. Looking forward to seeing the pics when its done.
     
  14. gusvs

    gusvs Senior member

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    I was in quite a lot of shops today (New Year's sale started today), and while I made no particular sales bargains, I did see a lot of Donegal tweed jackets with quarter lining only. Borrelli for example had them all quarter lined. Not too bad actually. Hmm, thought I had decided on fully lined, but now I got confused...[​IMG]
     

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