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Does this suit fit?

bluesteel01

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Hi, I hope this is the right place to ask in the forum. Does this suit fit ok? Any comments?

PICTURE https://ibb.co/3B9KQ2g

the photo should be free of distortion as the camera was at waist height about 10 feet away.

The sleeves and trousers have not been hemmed yet, just turned up by hand so they are a bit crumpled.

Is the jacket length ok?
 

othertravel

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Jacket looks a bit long, and as you mentioned the trousers need to be hemmed. But otherwise ok!
 

breakaway01

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The jacket looks to me to be somewhat bottom-heavy. It is a little long, the quarters are closed, there is a little more volume around the hips than you probably need, and the buttoning point may be a little high. In combination this makes the jacket less flattering than it could be. So while the jacket might technically fit you, the styling leaves something to be desired IMO.

perhaps if the jacket could be taken in a bit through the waist and hips that would help. I’d ask your tailor to pin up the jacket (without making it too tight) and see if that helpa.
 

bluesteel01

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Thanks for your input. I am a suit novice but aspire to build a nice collection for long term.

I am normally a 36S and this is a 36R (29.3 inch from collar seam to hem), so I was concerned it might be a bit long. I think the jacket looks big partly because the trousers are very slim. I gave them to a tailor to let out the legs by about 20mm (about 0.7 inch) so I hope that will make enough difference. Perhaps taking in the width of the jacket a little will help there but might make it look more elongated. I will try pinching it and take another photo.

I think it was designed for someone about 3 to 5 inches taller than me and I have short arms and legs.

I think the jacket does look long compared with pictures of other people in suits. My question is whether the length falls within the acceptable margin of taste (as some people might prefer longer jackets)? Or, is it so long it actually looks bad / the wrong size?
 

breakaway01

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I would say that the jacket length is still in the range of acceptable. Letting out the trousers may help with the overall silhouette. I still think the jacket may be improved by taking in the body slightly but let your tailor decide.
 

bluesteel01

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PICTURE https://ibb.co/RbxQCDW

I pinched it on the back seam from lumbar down. I put roomier trousers on (odd trousers).

It looks slimmer and less flared out at the bottom. The quarters are more open but are closed quarters bad?

There is a bit of an X because I made it too tight. Does any of this make it look better / less top heavy or make the jacket look less long?

2nd question, looking at my back (without pinching) The jacket is rather crumpled. What is the cause of this as far as the jacket goes?

PICTURE https://ibb.co/N7tn0xQ

I do not have a good posture. My pelvis tilts forward and my lumbar curves inward and my shoulders are round / head forward and I look like i am leaning back from a side view.
 

breakaway01

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That's too much taken in, and a tailor will probably want to take the jacket in through the side seams, not the back seam. But I think having a little bit taken in would help a lot. Ask them to pin up the alteration and make sure it looks okay in the mirror before going ahead with anything.

Closed quarters are not inherently bad. However in your case I think the combination of the closed quarters, roomy lower jacket, and somewhat high buttoning point all combine to make the jacket look bottom-heavy compared to the top.

It's a lot to expect the back of an off-the-rack jacket to hang very cleanly. Actually I think this is not too bad, especially with the posture issues you describe. I am not a tailor but the back balance of the jacket may be a little long (there is more fabric in the small of your back than is ideal for your posture/body). If this is the problem (and I am not sure that it is), it can be corrected but my understanding is that the tailoring is somewhat extensive and may not be worth it. Basically the jacket would be shortened at the top of the back.
 

bluesteel01

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I tried pinning the sides but because of the vents, it is too high to affect the bottom of the jacket (not shown in photo - which is unpinned). Also, the fit is snug as is and even a small pinning seems to make it feel tight and cause an X in the front. The fabric is very thin, almost like a shirt, so is unforgiving for creasing. I think you are right about the back crumpling being something I will have to live with due to poor posture and thin fabric.

Now for the length, I have digitally shortened the jacket about half an inch or so to see how it might look if I get it tailored.

Something about my posture / body shape is causeing the bottom front to stick out a little and the quarter bottoms to slope down to the center rather than look straight across.

I have read warnings about messing up proportions by shortening but I really don't have the eye to tell myself.

I think the jacket is for a taller person so is a little out of proportion to start with. The length from BOC to hem is 29.5inch, I am only 65inch tall.

Please have a look at the side by side (RHS shortened) before and after and tell me which you think looks best and if the shortening is enough or messes it up at all. The pockets are quite low and have long flaps (6cm).

PICTURE
 

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