Does my trouser-maker need a fitter? [pics]

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Renault78law, Sep 18, 2012.

  1. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    Below are pictures of bespoke trousers I recently commissioned. I purposefully broke them in by wearing them a few times before appealing to you all for some feedback regarding fit. The fabric is very lightweight wool from Reid & Taylor (thanks Ed!).

    Before the "Bespoke Police" jump all over me, yes, these are true bespoke. I had a basted fitting and a paper pattern drafted that is all my own. My tailor is not really a "fitter" but I think he did a good job. I am considering shortening the rise a smidgen, and slightly narrowing the legs. I keep going back and forth on those though, not sure what I should do, but it any event, those would be very minor changes which are more stylistic than anything else.

    I should mention, at the same time I had a pleated (single) pair made, and I like those less. They ended up kind of blousy in the front. I think pleats are more difficult to get right, and I don't know enough to put into words how I'd like them to fit, so I guess I'll be going with plain fronts for the time being.

    Please let me know if you have any thoughts on how I might be able to improve the next pair. Also, if you should suggest any details that you like for your bespoke trousers. I think I might have him remove the right back pocket, or maybe put a flap on it. I never use it anyway...

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    [​IMG][​IMG]
     


  2. Quadcammer

    Quadcammer Senior member

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    generally pretty good.

    I'd shorten the rise a scootch and probably taper the leg a bit. That leg opening looks awful big.
     


  3. Poloboy

    Poloboy Well-Known Member

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    You need to have a button added to your back right pocket.
    The besom pocket will not lay flat after repeated dry-cleaning.
    Have onseam front pockets for a cleaner, and more classic appearance.
    Do not taper your pant legs anymore.
    This current skinny pant rage will soon fade, plus it looks horrible
    You might consider a watch pocket for the pant front
    Highly recommend 2 Forward Pleats on your trouser.
    This style pleat is more difficult to get right, but when done correctly,
    Creates a much more flattering appearance.
     


  4. patrickBOOTH

    patrickBOOTH Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Your stance seems a bit unnatural, if not the back rise might need a touch shortening. I personally don't get back pockets on my trousers. I never ue them and nobody ever sees them. Plus, you can have alterations without pockets moving around. I bet the slanted pockets would lay a bit better if they were a touch looser in the waist. Also, I would get the hem in the front shortened slightly. ~0.5"
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2012


  5. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    The waist/seat is a tad, hence the gaping side pockets - see a thread that was here at the weekend on this.

    Keep the right back pocket whether or not you use it but have a button on it. Check out the pocket jets on RTW trousers, they are usually deeper and that would help the back pockets' appearance markedly.

    The legs could do with a little slimming down, the bottoms look far too big. Again check RTW for a sizing.
     


  6. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Trousers are nice.
    High right hip, would cut your right hip 3/8" higher. The tutorial on gaping pockets is useful here. It's about how the waistband is attached to the trouser, drawing in fullness over the hips and fronts to create enough ease thru the abdomen and seat. Tapering the leg is up to you.
     


  7. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    I actually posted in that Gaping Pockets thread. Would you mind explaining, in umm, simplier terms, what I should tell my pantmaker? That the front needs to be wider 2" below the waistband? In the Gaping Pockets thread, the solution for RTW was to bring the side-seam forward, at the top only. What would you suggest for custom pants?

    Also, what does it mean to cut a hip higher?
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2012


  8. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    If you measure your trouser, when you are wearing them, from the top of the waistband to the floor along the outseam, the right will be higher. Your pantmaker knows.

    If you have a 36" waist, each side of the trouser waistband would be 18". You cut the top of the trousers, front and back combined, to measure 18 1/2". The extra 1/2" is drawn/shrunk in over the fronts and hips. This creates ease over the hips and lets the pockets relax. This is all technical stuff tailors discuss. You might get funny looks or resistance telling your pantmaker this stuff.
     


  9. dreamspace

    dreamspace Senior member

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    The OP looks like a fairly average built man, I don't think pleats would flatter his build...unless he wants to look like a pear.
     


  10. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    Ok, I think I understand. Assume I have a 36" waist, and the top of the trousers, under the waistband measures 36.5". The extra 1/2" is taken in in the form of a dart on each side on the front, near the pockets, on flat front pants. Are you saying that for me, the top of the trousers should be increased to say, and extra 3/8" to 35.8"? Each dart would then be a little deeper/longer?
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2012


  11. Poloboy

    Poloboy Well-Known Member

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    I strongly disagree.
    Trousers with forward pleats that fit correctly will certainly be more flattering
    Than a plain front pant.
    The problem that most of the posters on this forum who denigrate the look and fit
    Of a pant with forward pleats, have never seen or worn a pair that fits correctly.
    Most people only see RTW pants with reverse pleats which are hideous.
    The rare RTW forward pleated trouser in the marketplace generally has shallow
    pleats that open up, and have too short of a rise.
    The correct fit should have a main pleat with a 11/2 inch deep pleat to lay correctly
    across the hips, and a longer rise to hang straight down the leg.
    When this style is done correctly, there is no comparison to a plain front
    pant in terms of style and fit.
    There is not the ballooning so many talk about, and in reality, can be quite slimming.
    I feel sorry for all of the posters who speak badly about pleated pants, when in
    reality, all they are doing is showing there ignorance on the subject.
     


  12. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I didn't use the word dart
     


  13. Septimus

    Septimus Senior member

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    Well, a picture would probably be helpful, if you're so emphatic about it.
     


  14. Renault78law

    Renault78law Senior member

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    Please to explain? Where does the .5" go in your example, the side seams?
     
    Last edited: Sep 18, 2012


  15. wintourh007

    wintourh007 Active Member

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    I think it looks good overall, right length for you and the style.
     


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