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Does my suit fit well?

Discussion in 'Menswear Advice' started by raf owens, Feb 15, 2017.

  1. raf owens

    raf owens Member

    Messages:
    7
    Joined:
    May 18, 2015
    It is made to measure, super 120s wool, but I'm not completely satisfied with the fit. I find it a bit too short. What do you think? Also do you think that my waistcoat is too short? It sits just above the waistline. So should I wear the waistcoat or not?
    http://i.imgur.com/mzixjzj.jpg
    http://i.imgur.com/5rBWQgX.jpg
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2017
  2. ThomGault

    ThomGault Senior member

    Messages:
    222
    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2016
    Location:
    Charlotte, NC
    It's always nice seeing younger men trying to dress well. Is this for a special occasion?
    I'm viewing the pics on my phone, so my analysis might be a bit off...
    1. The jacket is too tight. See the 'X' focused at the button, across your torso down toward your waist? Thats a signal you need more fabric.
    2. The jacket is way too short. It needs to cover your butt, and I'm guessing that it doesn't.
    3. The button stance is high, it throws off the proportions of the jacket, and is a result of #2. When the jacket is lengthened, the button stance can be lowered to a more appropriate level.
    4. Do you have uneven shoulders? Or are you standing crooked in photo #1? I don't mean offense, as my shoulders are a bit off, too. But a good tailor can accomodate physical imperfections instead of drawing attention to them.
    5. Pants are too tight---they don't drape at all. They shouldn't cling to your legs, nor wrinkle as they do. And you need more fabric in your..Ahem...crotch area.
    6. What shoes are you wearing? Chukkas? Chelseas? The photos aren't clear to me. You'll need a picture of the shoes you intend to wear, in order to gauge trousers leg length. Right now, it looks like you need more break.

    As meta-analysis, did a local tailor create this for you? Did they see the way it looked on you before you left their shop? These problems are fairly obvious, and I would doubt the judgment of a tailor who let you with these issues unresolved.
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2017
  3. raf owens

    raf owens Member

    Messages:
    7
    Joined:
    May 18, 2015
    This suit is for prom and I intend to wear it afterwards aswell. I don't believe the jacket is too tight, it's just the posture of mine. I actually argued with the tailor that the suit should be longer, but he convinced me that it was not neccesary. The shoulders are the result of my bad posture. Is it possible that I wore the pants too high? I'm intending to wear chelsea boots with a cuban heel and I had these shoes with me at the second visit to the tailor so the pants are supposedly the right length for these shoes. also I didn't want my trousers to have a break. I actually had this suit made to measure at a company that makes only suits and their in house tailor took my measurements and advised me.
    Here is a little bit better picture:
    http://i.imgur.com/rDuK5SL.jpg
     
  4. ThomGault

    ThomGault Senior member

    Messages:
    222
    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2016
    Location:
    Charlotte, NC
    Thanks for the updated picture; its a bit clearer. Again, I think its wonderful that you care enough about your appearance that you're having a suit made for your prom, and it will be useful in the coming years, too.
    The jacket's fit on your torso does look better, but I'm not sure that its not still snug. There's still a hint of an X wrinkle, but I'll wait for more pictures, as black can be hard to capture in imperfect light.
    There are two big issues. First is the length of the jacket. That's not an appropriate length at all, and its not a fixable error. I do adhere to classical style, and its simply not acceptable. While modern fashion allows for a shorter jacket (which will go out of style, and look dated), it generally needs to cover your butt.
    The tailor forcing his opinion on you for a poor jacket length is a bad sign, but even worse is the job that he's performed with the shoulders. If you have uneven shoulders due to posture, I would expect a poor fit in an off-the-rack suit. However, you said this is made-to-measure. The point of made to measure is they can take your body into account when the suit is created, and the tailor who measures you can make adjustments so it doesn't need to be altered after it's formed (or, at least alterations should be minimal.) Granted, this isn't a full bespoke suit with a pattern made just for your body, but the tailor should still be able to do much better than this. While shoulder padding can be reminiscent of a by-gone era, minimal padding can serve a purpose of leveling out your appearance, and there are other tricks that good tailors can employ to make it look more uniform. This is the biggest problem, because, again, if the tailor let you leave his office looking like that, he either doesn't care about his work, or he's lacks proper vision of acceptable clothing. I'm sure you're invested in this suit, and I know that once one tries on new clothing, an attachment can develop. However, I highly suggest that you return the suit and request a full refund. Its not possible for the tailor to fix the length of the coat, and I wouldn't have the confidence that, even if he made the project from scratch, the result would be acceptable.

    Finally, I highly suggest that you reconsider your footwear. Chelsea boots are on the casual end of the formal footwear spectrum, and it would be a shame to wear such a nice outfit and pair it with a casual boot. A Black captoe balmoral, in calf or patent leather, would be far more appropriate and match your formality.

    I look forward to more updates on your situation.
     
  5. raf owens

    raf owens Member

    Messages:
    7
    Joined:
    May 18, 2015
    
    The jacket might look a little bit tight, because of the added width of the waistcoat, as the waistcoat wasn't taken in account when the measurements were taken. As for the waistcoat, do you think it's too short? Also to clear things off, it might appear that I have uneven shoulders because of the way I was standing when the picture was taken. Unfortunately I think it's too late to complain about the suit, so I will have to go with it and make it look as less terrible as possible. Also the suit was 350$, so the financial loss is not too horrible. As for the chelsea boots, they are just my style and I really don't care how formal an event is, I will still wear them. also increasing the brightness on your phone helps to see the picture more clearly. And are the pants atleast okay?
     
  6. ThomGault

    ThomGault Senior member

    Messages:
    222
    Joined:
    Oct 21, 2016
    Location:
    Charlotte, NC
    You are the only one who knows the transaction details with the tailor, but I, personally, would expect a refund. If you feel that it is truly impossible to get your money back, I would push for him to fix as much as possible. The jacket can't be lengthened, but he should be able to let it out an inch to allow room for the vest, and widen the width of the pants leg. I meant to respond to your prior question about the pants being too high---basically, classic trousers would go as high as your natural waist. Modern fashion pants are lower-rise and only sit on your hips. Does that make sense? Sometimes its hard to explain, and I don't know your level of sartorial knowledge. I can't discern the natural rise of your trousers, but that will affect where they are to be worn, which will affect the amount of room in the crotch area. I don't know enough about waistcoats to give you proper advice about size, but, in the context of my previous comments, if your trousers are at your natural waist, I would believe the waistcoat should extend just over the trouser's waistband.


    If you're interested in style beyond just this one instance, you may want to read Alan Flusser's 'Dressing the Man', https://www.amazon.com/Dressing-Man-Mastering-Permanent-Fashion/dp/0060191449 It details the finer points of classic men's dressing, and is one of, if not the most, well regarded published works on the topic.
     
  7. toplel

    toplel Senior member

    Messages:
    108
    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2015
    For $350 it's great.

    For a date look for a girl that listens to Lyle Lovett.
     
  8. gs77

    gs77 Senior member

    Messages:
    731
    Joined:
    May 15, 2015
    Location:
    Toronto, Ontario
    

    "Kravata Zagreb"? Where are you from?
    What's that leather coat hanging in background?
     

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