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Does a size 40 double long jacket exist?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by TheloniusDrunk, Feb 6, 2012.

  1. TheloniusDrunk

    TheloniusDrunk Senior member

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    So I have a 40 inch chest, and I'm perusing the internet and looking in stores for some sport coats/blazers, and I notice that most of the measurements online for a jacket have the sleeve length come out to about 35.5 or 36 inches.

    I've been told that a jacket should show about a quarter to half an inch of sleeve, and I have a 37 inch sleeve length. Do I have to go bespoke? Is showing an inch to an inch and a half fine? Does a size 40 double long exist, so that the sleeve length would be closer to what I need?
     
  2. landshark

    landshark Senior member

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    I would be comfortable showing an inch of shirt cuff, but not much more. If it looks pretty bad (i.e. more than half your shirt cuff is showing), then get a slightly shorter shirt sleeve. It will save you from needing totally custom jackets (I've never seen a 40XL). However, if you can swing the cost of custom, you should consider it seriously.
     
  3. TheloniusDrunk

    TheloniusDrunk Senior member

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    How much are fully custom jackets? On the low end vs the high end? All I've seen is from Michael Andrews Bespoke, and I have no price estimate for that.
     
  4. div25sec9

    div25sec9 Senior member

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    how much too short are the sleeves? You can always get the sleeves let down a bit. You can usually get up to an inch longer just by tailoring, sometimes longer if they lengthen the liner.
     
  5. TheloniusDrunk

    TheloniusDrunk Senior member

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    Well I'm a 37 sleeve, and most the jackets I've seen online are around 35.5 inches in the sleeve length. Given that I'm browsing online mostly, I dont' know how much is available to be let out =(. Hopefully enough, but I can't be sure.
     
  6. div25sec9

    div25sec9 Senior member

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    37 jacket sleeve? ..or 37 inch shirt sleeve? 37 in the jacket is going to be hard to find; you'd probably be better off going to a brick and mortar store where you can find out how much is available to let...
     
  7. Tweedy

    Tweedy Senior member

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    Just to be sure, are you measuring from the shoulder seam to cuff end? How tall are you, 37" sleeve length seems extremely long ....:)
     
  8. black_umbrella

    black_umbrella Senior member

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    It's called extra long 40XL and I have seen them, but only from really large RTW manufacturers.
     
  9. thinman

    thinman Senior member

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    Samuelsohn has XL (extra long) sizes. I don't know of a store that carries them RTW, but I have a MTM jacket that is based on a 40XL size.

    Edit: www.paulstuart.com has XT (extra tall) sizes in RTW jackets and suits, though I would want to try on before I bought. They might actually be made by Samuelsohn.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2012
  10. TheloniusDrunk

    TheloniusDrunk Senior member

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    Sorry, I didn't specify my measuring convention. I'm new at this so I'm just basing off of my shirt sleeve length, which I got from measuring from halfway across the shoulders to the end of the sleeve. I thought this was the way that sleeve length was measured, am I wrong?

    For Tweedy: the 40 L jacket that you have is listed at 26" sleeves with 18.5" shoulders, so that would be a 35.5" sleeve how I calculated it.
     
  11. musicguy

    musicguy Senior member

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    Never understood why manufacturers measure shirts from the middle of the back to the sleeve. It's only vaguely accurate, but who wants shoulders to hang off your shoulder. Hence I never buy OTR shirts. They should give shoulder and sleeve measurements and go from there. Imagine OTR makers selling shirts by collar, shoulder and sleeve measurements.

    How tall are you? I'm 6'2" and my jacket sleeves from outside shoulder seam to cuff are usually around 25.5".

    I'd say entry level custom jackets run around $1000 in USA.
     
  12. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    most manufacturers have size 40 extra long hanging on the rack in their pattern room.
    but if the retailer does not order it for his stock, you will never see it.

    suit sleeves can be lengthened 1 inch easily .
    many can be lengthened 1and 3/4 inches by adding cloth on the inside.
    if you order a pre owned garment check to see if it has been previously altered.

    if you go to an extra long for the sleeve length, know this.
    that the body length also gets longer usually 1inch to 1and 1/2 inches longer.
    shortening the coat hem is much more costly than lengthening the sleeves.
     
  13. sns23

    sns23 Senior member

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    If your shirt is 37" and jackets are 35.5", then one inch of tailoring brings it to a perfect 36.5.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2012
  14. TheloniusDrunk

    TheloniusDrunk Senior member

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    I'm going in to a tailor friday to remeasure myself, and I'll be sure to figure out my actual sleeve length.

    To sns23, is it reasonable to assume that most OTR jackets are able to let out an inch on the sleeves?
     
  15. sns23

    sns23 Senior member

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    You should be able to get 1" out of nearly all jackets.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2012
  16. cptjeff

    cptjeff Senior member

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    Because the placement of the shoulder seam varies, and where it falls on any one person's shoulder varies based on cut and the person's shoulders.

    Giving a shoulder measurement too would be way too much. If you have to vary three factors, you have to stock an insane amount of shirts for something that won't make a difference to many.
     
  17. TheloniusDrunk

    TheloniusDrunk Senior member

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    Entry level custom sport jackets are really $1000? I would have guessed around $750
     
  18. TheloniusDrunk

    TheloniusDrunk Senior member

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    Resurrecting this thread from my more nascent SF days, does anyone know of any decent retailers of 40XL sport coats? I'm honestly not sure if I really NEED 40XL, I could go with a 40L, but most of the 40L that I see are too short in the shoulders (generally around 18.5"-1.75", and I'm 19"). If anyone knows someone that makes a 40L with 19" shoulders that'd be great.

    I'm really bummed because I really wanted to get http://www.ebay.com/itm/NWT-1395-CA...s=63&clkid=8674339956828515789#ht_2161wt_1398 this Canali sport coat, but at 44" it's a bit too big in the chest.

    Could that possibly be tailored down? Does Canali make 40XL? Does anyone else for around $450? (Yes I know that was the price of the over 50% discounted eBay auction, but it was perfect for me)
     
  19. Snedley

    Snedley Senior member

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    Xlong does exist but it may be hard to find a 40 because taller men have wider shoulders. Only a very rare narrow shouldered grown man that tall would wear anything under a 42 of perhaps some tall immature boy who is not fully grown.
     
  20. negusnegas

    negusnegas Senior member

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    Paul Stuart and Phineas Cole sell 40XLs.
     

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