Dissection and reconstruction of a Charles Tyrwhitt grenadine

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by rs232, Jul 3, 2012.

  1. rs232

    rs232 Senior member

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    If you've ordered a CT grenadine recently, you may have noticed how much like a half-frozen sheet of puff pastry they resemble. Lightweight, with no drape whatsoever. Here's a little illustrated narrative demonstrating how to cut a CT grenadine's first life short, and give it a second life.

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    You see that lump in the middle of the blade? Like playdough.

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    At this point, having got the tie open, I realise why the tie's drape is so poor. The interlining is very lightweight, and half synthetic (the white warp that doesn't take the black dye). The silk itself is very scroopy compared to other grenadines that I have dissected, cleaned, and relined.

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    I could give the silk a bath in some sodium bicarbonate to get rid of some of the serecin, but I'd have to unpick and resew the tipping to avoid colours bleeding, which is a fair bit of work on a grenadine (and hard to do without snagging the reppe tipping). I'm also not confident of the quality of the silk - it could be very thin and light with the serecin removed. So instead, I opt to reline; new wool canvas, and bias lining to add some weight and a dark background (cross stitched at the tip to keep it in place while sewing the rest up).

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    Pin and sew closed.

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    The CT bartacks are also pretty clumsy looking, so I redo them in nice contrasting yellow-gold silk.

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    And voilĂ , much better drape. Shame about the sleeve length :brick:

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    Last edited: Jul 3, 2012
  2. Lucan

    Lucan Senior member

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    Very interesting, thanks. What is serecin for the uneducated amongst us?

    People should play with their ties more, the construction really isn't that complicated as you show. I had a few old ties that I didn't wear any more because they were too wide (more like 10cm than the 9cm you tend to have these days), so I took them apart, trimmed down the lining, pressed (lightly!) the silk to the new shape and it feels like I've got new ties.

    Lucan

    PS Love the gold bar tack a lot
     
  3. rs232

    rs232 Senior member

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  4. Naka

    Naka Senior member

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    Fantastic thread, thankyou.
     
  5. msulinski

    msulinski Senior member

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    I have this same tie. How much would you charge to make the same modification for me?
     
  6. davesmith

    davesmith Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    WHAT THE................. Teach me how to do that bar tack. PLEASE!! I will pay. I have been looking online for forever to see a tutorial. I have seen the simple bar tack when the thread is just twisted around the needle but the fly/flower bar tack (I believe it's called) I am yet to see it made in real life!

    Edit: Just saw the milanese buttonhole on your jacket!! Did you make that also?? Simply beautiful.
     
    Last edited: Jul 3, 2012
  7. clapeyron

    clapeyron Senior member

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    more of this please [​IMG]
     
  8. antirabbit

    antirabbit Senior member

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    Yeah, this kicks ass
     
  9. rs232

    rs232 Senior member

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    Bartack is just a buttonhole stitch. The CT ones are the same, they just aren't taking the time to get a decent stitch density so the knots all line up nicely in a row. A bartack only takes three minutes or so anyway. I have another tie to do, so I'll post a photo showing the knot it a few days when I do it. Milanèses take far longer, and I do them in a manner similar to how jefferyd shows on his blog - unfortunately, that's one of the few things that went right with that jacket (and only half-right at that). Chris Despos provides a good critique in the tailors' fit thread.
     
  10. add911_11

    add911_11 Senior member

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    I love the fit of your suit.

    Nice work on the tie
     
  11. John Robinson

    John Robinson New Member

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  12. jeff13007

    jeff13007 Senior member

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    This is 1 million times better than iron's DIY posts.
     
  13. Tropicalist

    Tropicalist Senior member

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  14. rs232

    rs232 Senior member

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    Update with pictures of the other one I had to reline. This silk wasn't as nice when I got it off the interlining - very very scroopy, and no possibility of removing serecin because of the different coloured yarn in the weaving (black and navy warp/weft would look a bit "duller", and the white dots would become blue-grey dots). So I really wouldn't recommend buying any of the CT polka dots garza finas. Buttonhole stitch for bartack shown too.

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    Last edited: Jul 10, 2012
  15. davesmith

    davesmith Affiliate Vendor Affiliate Vendor

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    [​IMG] I am in awe! Thanks for the handy pics

    What thread do you use? It looks pretty thick.
     

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