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Discussions about the fashion industry thread

bencap

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Margaret Howell is a good suggestion, and Philo would be great (but highly unlikely, as mentioned).

My pick would be Patrik Ervell. He's only been at Vince for like a full year though, I don't see it as likely. I think he'd have a bit more leeway at CK than Vince, which has been pretty lackluster from the few looks I saw.
 

LA Guy

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Margaret Howell is a good suggestion, and Philo would be great (but highly unlikely, as mentioned).

My pick would be Patrik Ervell. He's only been at Vince for like a full year though, I don't see it as likely. I think he'd have a bit more leeway at CK than Vince, which has been pretty lackluster from the few looks I saw.
Patrik Ervell doesn't have the name to really make him an attractive candidate, nor does Margaret Howell.
 

Todd Shelton

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I don't think CK needs a name hire that comes with an identified aesthetic. I think they should focus on incredible execution of their established aesthetic. A dynamic, business-minded designer who doesn't come with rigid fashion beliefs - that could re-energize their culture - would be my hire.
 

OccultaVexillum

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@LA Guy having a "big name" didn't work out well for them though.
And even though I like Howell I'm pretty sure she would have zero interest in designing for anybody else.
 

bencap

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Patrik Ervell doesn't have the name to really make him an attractive candidate, nor does Margaret Howell.

I was thinking along the lines of the second half of this post ie: someone more lowkey who can do "American minimalism" well. I don't know if CK needs someone hyped after how things with Raf have gone.

Now that Raf is out at CK, who should they bring in to replace him? Someone high-profile again in an attempt to get some extra cache, or someone more low-key to just keep some good design flowing and let the rest of CK pay the bills?

Alternatively, who do you think can do American minimalism well?

edit: Whoops, didn't see there was another page, cosigned on those last posts!
 

dieworkwear

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I know writers have to write, but this excerpt:

If you've ever worn something completely waterproof—not just water-resistant—you'll know that while it works, it also tends to get hot. Very hot. That's because it's hard to make something both waterproof and breathable. Think about it: If you're keeping water out, you're also keeping water (read: sweat) in. That's why you'll see things like "water-resistant" or "water-repellent" instead; with these, there's still a little room to breathe. Futurelight is, in The North Face's terms, going to change all of that.

While we haven't tested the fabric yet ourselves, it certainly sounds promising: It uses a "nanospinning" process, which creates nano-sized holes in the fabric. This allows for air to flow through without sacrificing the waterproof exterior. That could make your standard hiking, skiing, or rain jacket a lot more comfortable to wear.

“Right now, the expectation from a waterproof product is something loud, crunchy, muggy and unpackable," says Scott Mellin, Global General Manager of Mountain Sports at The North Face. "With Futurelight, we can theoretically use the technology to make anything breathable, waterproof and for the first time, comfortable. Imagine a waterproof T-shirt, sweater or even denim that you actually want to wear. Today we start with jackets, tents and gloves, but the possibilities could be endless.”


^ I'm not sure that's true. Gore-Tex basically works on the same principle. The holes are big enough for air to escape, but not big enough for water to seep in. Ventile is also a very quiet water-resistant cloth. The only weatherproof fabrics that are hot and muggy are waxed and rubberized cotton, which are basically pre-20th cent.

The best weatherproof technologies rarely make it into the fashion market anyway. This Event fabric looks great, but I've never seen it used by a designer. Maybe because few guys actually need this level of technology or maybe because it doesn't have a cool heritage story.

 

smittycl

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I know writers have to write, but this excerpt:




^ I'm not sure that's true. Gore-Tex basically works on the same principle. The holes are big enough for air to escape, but not big enough for water to seep in. Ventile is also a very quiet water-resistant cloth. The only weatherproof fabrics that are hot and muggy are waxed and rubberized cotton, which are basically pre-20th cent.

The best weatherproof technologies rarely make it into the fashion market anyway. This Event fabric looks great, but I've never seen it used by a designer. Maybe because few guys actually need this level of technology or maybe because it doesn't have a cool

Have used every faddish outdoor tech since the 80’s. Will withhold judgement until I try it. If you have to exert yourself you will sweat in rain gear. No matter the tech you can’t have it both ways, completely waterproof and completely breathable are not compatible in my experience.
 

dieworkwear

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Have used every faddish outdoor tech since the 80’s. Will withhold judgement until I try it. If you have to exert yourself you will sweat in rain gear. No matter the tech you can’t have it both ways, completely waterproof and completely breathable are not compatible in my experience.

Yea, I don't think any of this stuff is completely breathable or completely waterproof, they're just different degrees and compromises both ways. ProLite Gear has good reviews on this stuff.

 

smittycl

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Event is used in Hoka footwear. I know I've seen it elsewhere, I just can't remember where.
Now Hoka are great running shoes. No idea about the waterproofing aspects, just the cushioning and how my knees don’t hurt so much anymore.
 

crazn

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https://www.digitaltrends.com/outdoors/north-face-futurelight-fabrics-ces-2019/

I think this is a better article in terms of describing the science behind it. I'm aware of Gore-Tex and the higher end tech stuff like Toray Dermizax NX that is used for mountain wear. I think it will be interesting to compare futurelight to Dermizax which is what I think is the most advanced material on the market now, mainly used by a lot of ski brands and its supremely breathable as my jacket. The other competitors are Gore-Tex Pro, Polartec Neoshell, eVent, and Schoeller c_change, Pertex. I wonder what's the difference but they all seem to be delving into the same tech. So I guess we shall see what's the difference.

https://modernclimbing.wordpress.com/2017/09/21/dermizax-vs-gore-tex-what-is-better/
 

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