Discussions about the fashion industry thread

[happyriverz]

Not sure what Gallery Aesthete's financial conditions were before COVID, so it's possible that they were slowly deteriorating even before the pandemic, but I always got the impression that they had a very loyal customer base. As someone who moved to Chicago in 2015 and have been buying pieces from Gallery Aesthete every season since then, I always saw other customers who were buying pieces at full price.

Obviously COVID was a big hit for a brick-and-mortar operation like Gallery Aesthete, where the products really needed to be seen and felt in person, so I can imagine the store closure took a big hit on the bottom line.

In any event, it is very sad that the store is closing. It had a great selection of merchandise, and the staff is super knowledgeable and helpful. It's where I was exposed to a lot of good brands, and with its closure, the list of independent boutiques in Chicago with strong points of view shrinks.

 

[cb200]

the slow pace of development of avan garde artisanal brands, coup-led with the rise of resellers like grailed has made it incredibly difficult for a lot of stores in ways it wasnt in the past

Interesting, I don't think I've seen much discussion on the impact of resellers and secondhand online marketplaces on small stores and smaller brands.

Mostly I've seen impact framed only in the most positive aspect of reducing overproduction and being more "sustainable". But what the impact is on small retailers or brands I don't think I've heard a peep.

 

[nyarkies]

Can a desginer still be considered avant-garde when nothing unusually new has been conceived but instead it's the same (or almost the same) aesthetic just in different colors or materials?

 

[double00]

well spotted, also reasonable to ask if some small brand's wares can be had (in an essential sense) as secondhand well what are they really offering ?

 

[cb200]

Can a desginer still be considered avant-garde when nothing unusually new has been conceived but instead it's the same (or almost the same) aesthetic just in different colors or materials?

Yes. Norms of business of apparel is constant newness and seasonal change in trends. Not following the formula puts a designer solidly against the the mass of fashion brands and apart from the mainstream.

 

[BlakeRVA]

this is a big part of the problem. and its not just for avant garde in general but a lot of high fashion is simply too expensive.
the reality is that the higher the prices of goods, the less people are able to affort it on any consistent basis.

Curious, what are common price points for "avant garde" clothes? I won't speak for others, but I personally feel avant garde is impractical for my lifestyle and too costume for my social circle. I work a corporate office job and would feel terribly out of place in an all black, avant garde fashion outfit. This is the real issue, not the cost of goods.

 

[Zamb]

Curious, what are common price points for "avant garde" clothes? I won't speak for others, but I personally feel avant garde is impractical for my lifestyle and too costume for my social circle. I work a corporate office job and would feel terribly out of place in an all black, avant garde fashion outfit. This is the real issue, not the cost of goods.

Because you assume that avant-garde means all black or artisanal fashion must necessarily be expensive. I can’t speak for other designers, but I use lots of color in my work. I also see a lot of artisanal brands who use color.
I also don’t see how it’s impractical. There is so much offering from so many designers that one can find artisanal clothing for every occasion/ aspect of life without looking out of place

 

[Zamb]

Curious, what are common price points for "avant garde" clothes? I won't speak for others, but I personally feel avant garde is impractical for my lifestyle and too costume for my social circle. I work a corporate office job and would feel terribly out of place in an all black, avant garde fashion outfit. This is the real issue, not the cost of goods.

I used to collect CCP and Carpe Diem boots. At one point I ended up with over 9 pairs of CCP boots/ sneakers with another 5 to 6 pairs of carpe shoes. You are looking at around 20k in footwear.
for everyone there are different priorities. As an immigrant who came to the US broke and at the time didn’t own a home, a 20k boot collection is rather ridiculous. I sold most and only left with a few pairs now.
I use a lot of leather in my work. I can’t tell other designers how to price their goods, but I try not to sell a jacket above 2 to 2.5k
I see jackets pushing it to 4 to 5k. I personally think those prices place the item in a realm very few people can afford.

 

[Zamb]

Yes. Norms of business of apparel is constant newness and seasonal change in trends. Not following the formula puts a designer solidly against the the mass of fashion brands and apart from the mainstream.

But if you think about the fact that some people have a personal style and taste that they do not want to radically change their wardrobe every six month but buy clothing that fits a particular aesthetic.

for most of my life I have worn basically the same things. I’m not a fan of T-shirts with prints. I wear slim fitting jeans. I love dress shirts with bold prints etc. while I don’t wear everything I design, a lot of it is an extension of my personal taste and that does not change dramatically.

 

[dieworkwear]

When I think of avant-garde, I think of Rick, Yohei, Issey Miyake, CDG, Ann D, CCP, etc. Those are giant businesses. That segment of the market is probably bigger than the market for bespoke clothes, despite the relatively more "normie" presentation of suits and sport coats, and being roughly priced the same.

 

[nyarkies]

I’m not a fan of T-shirts with prints.

Even the cat shirt? How dare you?

 

[Zamb]

Even the cat shirt? How dare you?

Catty galore has been a hit with both men and women and I happen to have two variants......they are selling well anf im about to restock............

 

[nahneun]

the only cat shirt to matter tbf

 

[Zamb]

the only cat shirt to matter tbf

nope, mine has "catty galore"

 

[nahneun]

nope, mine has "catty galore"

yeah but is it felix the space cat ?