Discussions about the fashion industry thread

[cb200]

Banana Republic Has Revived Hemingway's Wardrobe

The fast-fashion retailer is returning to its roots with a selection of genuine archival pieces steeped in the store's adventure heritage.

www.highsnobiety.com

Interesting.... Easy to forget the original vibe/ perspective of Banana Republic and also that Ana Andjelic (who's been writing and talking about brand strategy for a while) is now Banana Republic's chief brand officer. Will be interesting to see how what she's written and talked about takes shape outside of this archive sale.

 

[ThreadsofApollo]

https://www.wmagazine.com/fashion/gucci-sneakers-vegan-leather-demetra

Gucci is the latest to jump in on this vegan leather. Curious to see if this will be a permanent fixture in the luxury space or just a trend.

Personally, I think it'll be a long long time before vegan-based alternatives can truly replace actual leather goods.

 

[cb200]

"we are seeing now is that in many ways companies are acting even more cavalierly then they did pre-Covid. "

Covid’s Next Chapter: Bullish Buyers Put Factories at Risk

After a debilitating 18 months for most factories, SJ's Edward Hertzman says brands continue to seek 'disturbing' and self-interested terms.

sourcingjournal.com

 

[ghdvfddzgzdzg]

Banana Republic Has Revived Hemingway's Wardrobe

The fast-fashion retailer is returning to its roots with a selection of genuine archival pieces steeped in the store's adventure heritage.

www.highsnobiety.com

Interesting.... Easy to forget the original vibe/ perspective of Banana Republic and also that Ana Andjelic (who's been writing and talking about brand strategy for a while) is now Banana Republic's chief brand officer. Will be interesting to see how what she's written and talked about takes shape outside of this archive sale.

"Banana Republic was created as an imaginary territory on par with Narnia, Middle Earth, or Wakanda"

pfffffffffffffffff

 

[Nobilis Animus]

"we are seeing now is that in many ways companies are acting even more cavalierly then they did pre-Covid. "

Covid’s Next Chapter: Bullish Buyers Put Factories at Risk

After a debilitating 18 months for most factories, SJ's Edward Hertzman says brands continue to seek 'disturbing' and self-interested terms.

sourcingjournal.com

It's interesting, and perhaps telling, that all the retailers that seemed dependent upon China/cheap manufacturing pre-pandemic are closing or fighting to stay alive, while the luxury brands making their stuff expensively elsewhere are booming. The amount of control over a supply chain is pretty important.

 

[clee1982]

Or just different buyer with wealth not damaged during COVID?

like j crew went or BB went under not because they ran into supply chain issue of not having enough clothe for the demand

 

[Nobilis Animus]

Or just different buyer with wealth not damaged during COVID?

like j crew went or BB went under not because they ran into supply chain issue of not having enough clothe for the demand

Maybe, but I think their demand also dried up to some extent. Whether because people wanted to treat themselves to nicer things, or got tired of Gap quality, etc., there are obviously bigger problems than profit margins. People in Toronto have been lining up for hours every day at stores more expensive than that, and not very much at the J Crew-tier places, unless it's at a thrift store or something.

 

[Texasmade]

Or just different buyer with wealth not damaged during COVID?

like j crew went or BB went under not because they ran into supply chain issue of not having enough clothe for the demand

Probably different market segments.

Just a guess but the avg BB buyer was a white collar person who bought clothes for an office environment while those buying luxury clothes do it because they enjoy it and not for some work environment. Once C19 hit and all the offices shutdown, there was no need to buy 3 shirts for $200 from BB anymore.

 

[dieworkwear]

Fast fashion did surprisingly well during the pandemic. I thought it would be one of the first to go out since they're reliant on brick-and-mortar sales. But when you look at reports, it's the same dynamic as before. Online retailers did better than B&M. Luxury and fast fashion did better than middle tier.

 

[Nobilis Animus]

Probably different market segments.

Just a guess but the avg BB buyer was a white collar person who bought clothes for an office environment while those buying luxury clothes do it because they enjoy it and not for some work environment. Once C19 hit and all the offices shutdown, there was no need to buy 3 shirts for $200 from BB anymore.

I wouldn't be surprised if all this, plus working from home more often in the future, makes people shift away from the 'work clothes' thing in general. That means designer/high-end clothes might start becoming more coveted again as people dress more for their own enjoyment.

 

[Nobilis Animus]

Fast fashion did surprisingly well during the pandemic. I thought it would be one of the first to go out since they're reliant on brick-and-mortar sales. But when you look at reports, it's the same dynamic as before. Online retailers did better than B&M. Luxury and fast fashion did better than middle tier.

Fast fashion has (had?) a huge section of the clothing market still, so that doesn't surprise me.

 

[clee1982]

Maybe, but I think their demand also dried up to some extent. Whether because people wanted to treat themselves to nicer things, or got tired of Gap quality, etc., there are obviously bigger problems than profit margins. People in Toronto have been lining up for hours every day at stores more expensive than that, and not very much at the J Crew-tier places, unless it's at a thrift store or something.

Don’t quite understand your thesis, are you saying luxury did better because someone who was cross shop Jcrew suddenly decide let me save up and buy “nice things” only?

I would think it’s rather the luxury buyer got bored at home and binge buy online during COVID

 

[Nobilis Animus]

Don’t quite understand your thesis, are you saying luxury did better because someone who was cross shop Jcrew suddenly decide let me save up and buy “nice things” only?

I would think it’s rather the luxury buyer got bored at home and binge buy online during COVID

No, although some might have more disposable income this time around with restaurants and such being shuttered. The luxury market did grow, however, and some bigger names made headway into new markets - I'm not sure all of that was off the backs of the same clientele.

I just think everyone is bored of the middle market, hence the issues at the supply level. Retailers are trying to hedge their bets because it's not as if a sudden boom of sales is forthcoming. They're actually losing customers. In Toronto, at least, a lot of the ones still around are closing their biggest stores permanently.

 

[clee1982]

So can you clarify your hypothesis?

1. not all luxury growth are from existing client -> definitely true, but then the question is how much is from existing client who just spend more because can't go to vacation in Italy, I would think a very big chunk or even just simple revenge spending

2. I guess counter to 1 is there are people who had the wealth to spend at luxury level but just never bothered because they don't see the need but suddenly COVID came and decide it's time to spend on "nice" things only, this is your central thesis? I think there would be some, but just don't think that's the thing that crash the middle market

3. also still not sure about why supply chain is relevant, the middle market were mostly in the position of not enough customer, not in the position of not enough stock

 

[Nobilis Animus]

So can you clarify your hypothesis?

1. not all luxury growth are from existing client -> definitely true, but then the question is how much is from existing client who just spend more because can't go to vacation in Italy, I would think a very big chunk or even just simple revenge spending

2. I guess counter to 1 is there are people who had the wealth to spend at luxury level but just never bothered because they don't see the need but suddenly COVID came and decide it's time to spend on "nice" things only, this is your central thesis? I think there would be some, but just don't think that's the thing that crash the middle market

3. also still not sure about why supply chain is relevant, the middle market were mostly in the position of not enough customer, not in the position of not enough stock

Ok: I think that there's been a trend for the past few years of customers turning away from middle market retailers in general. The pandemic only exacerbated the trend. To some extent they were kept alive through the whole 'preppy' phase in the 2010s and the need for office clothes that didn't cost an-arm-and-a-leg, but now that whole need is gone and people are spending their money elsewhere.

Part of the reason the demand is lower is because the two biggest shopping demographics, even globally, are much more interested in avoiding fashion chains that rely on the kind of supply chains and working conditions mentioned in the article. A lot of people don't have a choice, of course, or will choose cheaper items first, but IMO enough do that it's a big effect on the clothing industry. Do I think that J Crew shoppers saved up and now exclusively shop at YSL? Of course not, but they also don't want to shop at Gap.

There has to be a reason for retailers with foreign supply chains universally going under while luxury brands that don't are actually expanding. Perhaps it's because people are just taking a financial hit, like you said, but that doesn't explain why I still see them lining up for hours every day to shop at similarly mid-price stores. They have money, but the trend seems to be shopping at other places. And those places are usually smaller, more local/ethical (how I hate that term), and make many of their clothes in countries other than J Crew did.