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Discussions about the fashion industry thread

happyriverz

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I am not sure I know what you mean. What examples can you cite where NMWA succeeds in getting that look you describe right?
I think the best examples are from Greg and Kyle themselves. I mean, their way of dressing is not my way, but I think those two guys really thread the needle between accessibility and fashion: it's not boring in the "19 essentials every man should own" way, but it's not so conceptual in the "to really understand why this torn up Rick Owens parka is interesting, you have to understand Russian Constructivism" way either. I happen to lean in the latter camp, but I think most people are just interested in buying clothes that look nice/interesting without being alienating, and I think NMWA is one of the best at doing that.
 

hendrix

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I think the best examples are from Greg and Kyle themselves. I mean, their way of dressing is not my way, but I think those two guys really thread the needle between accessibility and fashion: it's not boring in the "19 essentials every man should own" way, but it's not so conceptual in the "to really understand why this torn up Rick Owens parka is interesting, you have to understand Russian Constructivism" way either. I happen to lean in the latter camp, but I think most people are just interested in buying clothes that look nice/interesting without being alienating, and I think NMWA is one of the best at doing that.
Rick Owens/any other "conceptual" brands are not any more...well..."conceptual" than any of the other streetwear brands stocked at, say, NMWA or Unionmade or End or whatever. Is Ann D or whomever doing anything qualitatively different from Our Legacy or even a workwear brand? I don't think so. There's just as much of an intellectual component to understanding the meta-references in American-Japanese-French workwear pieces as there is asymetrical drop crotch bullshit.

NMWA simply stock cooler clothes made by brands that are putting a lot of effort in to every process. Boring black shit with the occasional pop of cock hanging out isn't cool or interesting it's just shit overpriced design. Most of the collectively "avant-garde" brands have had nothing interesting to say for more than a decade. There are people that do it well but they aren't taking it from the perspective that they're doing anything different than any other fashion brand.
 

happyriverz

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Rick Owens/any other "conceptual" brands are not any more...well..."conceptual" than any of the other streetwear brands stocked at, say, NMWA or Unionmade or End or whatever. Is Ann D or whomever doing anything qualitatively different from Our Legacy or even a workwear brand? I don't think so. There's just as much of an intellectual component to understanding the meta-references in American-Japanese-French workwear pieces as there is asymetrical drop crotch bullshit.

NMWA simply stock cooler clothes made by brands that are putting a lot of effort in to every process. Boring black shit with the occasional pop of cock hanging out isn't cool or interesting it's just shit overpriced design. Most of the collectively "avant-garde" brands have had nothing interesting to say for more than a decade. There are people that do it well but they aren't taking it from the perspective that they're doing anything different than any other fashion brand.
I don't think anyone denies that interesting clothes have intellectual components -- that's in part what makes clothes interesting, but I didn't think it was controversial to say that to most people, there is a difference between "getting" something like (1) a flannel shirt made with interesting details and (2) "weird" clothes that don't immediately fit into an easy-to-understand paradigm (again, to most people, not to people on clothing forums). This is not a claim about the objective merit/superiority of (1) or (2) -- just a personal observation.
 

hendrix

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I don't think anyone denies that interesting clothes have intellectual components -- that's in part what makes clothes interesting, but I didn't think it was controversial to say that to most people, there is a difference between "getting" something like (1) a flannel shirt made with interesting details and (2) "weird" clothes that don't immediately fit into an easy-to-understand paradigm (again, to most people, not to people on clothing forums). This is not a claim about the objective merit/superiority of (1) or (2) -- just a personal observation.
I don't think that people don't "get" those clothes of supposedly more obscure references - I think the average person on the street probably naturally understands quite a bit of it, more than we really give them credit for. They often just don't like it. I honestly don't think there are many if any fashion brands that are so intellectual that people don't understand them with a surface look.

Also I don't think that's all there is to the clothes at NMWA et al. It's not just interesting details, it's the same type of oblique references that happen in those clothes.
 

clee1982

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Side note on NMWA, NMWA definitely picks up lots of interesting stuff, but to me that has been on the non CM side despite being a CM guy, the stuff I bought from NMWA are always non CM except maybe Rota once a while?
 

happyriverz

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I don't think that people don't "get" those clothes of supposedly more obscure references - I think the average person on the street probably naturally understands quite a bit of it, more than we really give them credit for. They often just don't like it. I honestly don't think there are many if any fashion brands that are so intellectual that people don't understand them with a surface look.

Also I don't think that's all there is to the clothes at NMWA et al. It's not just interesting details, it's the same type of oblique references that happen in those clothes.
Fair enough on the first point. On the second point, I never said that that's the only reason why NMWA is good. If anything, I think we are in agreement: NMWA just sells interesting clothes that look good, but not so obtuse that it turns off the average consumer. The oblique references are there for the enthusiasts.
 

smittycl

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Side note on NMWA, NMWA definitely picks up lots of interesting stuff, but to me that has been on the non CM side despite being a CM guy, the stuff I bought from NMWA are always non CM except maybe Rota once a while?
I’m the exact opposite. Almost everything I’ve grabbed at NMWA was CM.
 

clee1982

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Well IG shirt is too long, Formosa is too long so is Eidos, I guess that rules me out for most of the tailoring stuff
 

smittycl

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Well IG shirt is too long, Formosa is too long so is Eidos, I guess that rules me out for most of the tailoring stuff
I’m a long so it definitely works for me. Awesome casual stuff, though. Am slowly expanding my Japanese indigo shirt collection.
 

hendrix

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Fair enough on the first point. On the second point, I never said that that's the only reason why NMWA is good. If anything, I think we are in agreement: NMWA just sells interesting clothes that look good, but not so obtuse that it turns off the average consumer. The oblique references are there for the enthusiasts.
Right, to be clear I'm not really attacking your viewpoint or anything, I just get a little triggered by any vague notion of fashion elitism from nominally "avant-garde" brands, therefore I felt like digging a little bit into your post, if you take my meaning.
 

Gus

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Well IG shirt is too long, Formosa is too long so is Eidos, I guess that rules me out for most of the tailoring stuff
You can order custom Inglese shirts with your measurements for a nominal charge. The last batch I ordered went in early November and I received them mid Dec. Excellent turn-around time coming from Italy and for being custom.
 

smittycl

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IMG_7279.jpg IMG_7280.jpg IMG_7281.jpg

Picked up a really cool cashmere scarf from Drake's at Barneys post-Christmas sale. Anyone have a clue as to the initials or the "T"? Never seen a Drake's product marked that way. Seems a bit disingenuous to say it's from Kashmir as well. Disputed territory but is that just a dodge to avoid saying Made in India or Pakistan?

The Drake's website lists scarves apparently from the same manufacturer as some Made in India and some Made in Kashmir.

Maybe I should put this in the Drake's thread? Oops...I always forget this is SW&D. Still, kind of a cool scarf, goes with jeans I think... :D
 
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