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discussion of fashion week spring 07

JO3B

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im surprised there have been no posts about this yet.

@ least, i did a search that returned nothing relevant.

so anyway, favorite peices? designers?
 

JO3B

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something about these two looks from trovata does it for me.

it has something to do with the belts, i know that. that little splash of color and the scarf in the second pic work really well
 

shoreman1782

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Trovata seems to be pushing the print espadrilles. I like their stuff, but I'm not sure how "designer" it is. Pretty much any of this could have been in their past collections. I'm assuming those are surcingle belts--nice touch, though dangerously old mannish. I mentioned in the Rag + Bone thread that their collection also looked good, but again mostly more of the same.

In general, I thought I saw some men's stuff that was surprisingly current--as in, currently for sale in the mall. A lot of stripes, cardigans, v-necks...
 

JO3B

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shoreman, thats exactly the point.

the belts themselves would normally be associated with the old man look, but it gives their outfits a breath of fresh air imo.

for designer..i'd look into yohji's work. but i'm not gonna even start posting that here.

personally i'm not sure what was going on there...
 

Get Smart

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I didnt see a whole lot that I liked, some nice stuff here and there but no single collection gave me wood. I think Gucci had the most pieces I liked within a collection tho...there were 3 or 4 nice looking jacket/shirt/trouser combos cut real slim and fitted. I didnt really *get* the Paul Smith toxic yellow shoes.
 

Rye GB

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The current NYC shows:

Trovata: Boring, same stuff, same quality. Not Fashion Week worthy.

Rag & Bone: Well made but boring. Women's was very poor for a Runway show

Varvatos: Pretty good, a little edgier than usual, must be all the rubbing of shoulders with the Rock n' Rollers.

Strong collections from the Spring shows:

Ann Demeulemeester-Strong point of view, directional.
Burberry Prorsum-Solid collection. I just wish the individual pieces looked stronger in the stores.
Cloak-I don't normally wear edgy(slightly avante garde) items, but he makes it work for me.
Junya Watanabe-Total respect. I love the infusion of street and respect the collaborations he's tied down. People think Horisha Fujiwara has corporate bro's, Junya is the man.
Number (N)ine-Rock N' Roll without the LA cheese. More wearable than Undercover.

Designers I do not understand:

Kim Jones-???. What, Eh, how?
Kriss Van Assche-Slimane's future replacement?, not even close, plus the clothes are crap!.
Thom Browne-Will he build a career around baring men's ankles. If I want cropped pants I'll buy vintage and do it myself.
 

Kodak

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Cloak was kind of disappointing for S/S 07, but I'm glad Plokhov(sp?)is trying something different.
 

LA Guy

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If you have a subscription, shows are at www.firstview.com. An abbreviated number of shows are available for view at www.men.style.com

I agree with most of RyeGB's views, withone exception. Since I'm lazy, I'll just address the designers he has, instead of going through all the shows, and making notes. After all, I'm not buying, and no one is paying me to write an article. Eh, maybe I'll add some more stuff later.

Trovata: they are a quirky little outfit with an interesting trick: sticking a peppy California surf feel into preppy. However, I don't see how or why they won the emerging talent award last year. They are not that good.

Rag & Bone: Similar. The stuff is eminently wearable (hey, I'll buy some), but they don't really have the chops to make a good runway show yet. Give them a few years, and a better developed design team, and I think the potential is there. However, for the time being, they are a jeans company with some very wearable, and well cut, but nevertheless sideline, pieces. Seriously, Engineered Garments has a deeper repetoire.

Varvatos: It's nice to see the newer silhouettes. I mean, I really like the relaxed silhouette that Varvatos started in F/W 2000, but hey, isn't it time to change things up just a bit every dozen seasons or so? I'm glad that he seemed to take the negative comments about his collections at Pitti Uomo seriously. We'll see how this translates into production though. It's been going downhill for a while now (2000-2001 were the golden years). Wonder how hard the Nautica group is squeezing him, what with the David Chu collection and all.

Ann Demeulemeester - Agree with Rye that this was a strong collection. After years of focus on Margiela and Raf and Dries, it is nice to see Demeulemeester come to the forfront. She has always been one of the strongest and most consistent of the Belgians and the Antwerp Six in particular.

Burberry Prorsum - I agree with Rye. Buyers are terrible when it comes to this label, including those at Burberry stores. Not sure why. They always get two or three strong pieces, and then a bunch of stuff that looks awkward placed together.

Cloak - I've always liked Cloak. I could never wear an entire Cloak outfit, but I'd wear one piece at a time. That's a good thing.

Junya Watanabe- Rye said "Total respect." I completely agree. Ever since his collab with Lewis leathers (F/W 2004?) I have not had anything bad to say about his collections. Except that I can't afford them. Oh well.

Number (N)ine - Um, disagree with RyeGB here. I jus don't think the collection or the designer is particularly strong. It's not particularly wearable unless you are Marilyn Manson, and to say that it is more wearable than Undercover is like saying that someone is less wierd than Michael Jackson.

Kim Jones - I think that his sneakers are interesting, and some of his Umbro collabs. Otherwise, he has been overhyped from day one. He is a one trick pony. Bright, poorly cut gym wear. Stolen from the set of Dirty Dancing. There, I said it.

Kriss Van Assche - with the mediocre showings like Slimane has come up with recently, could be a good successor. Otherwise, Dior should try to tap Helmut Lang for the job.

Thom Browne - complete theatre. It looks like TB (whose suits are actually phenomenal on the rack and when worn so that you are not in danger of losing a limb due to cut off circulation) is getting desperate for a new trick.
 

gusgusterson

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I've been watching channel 25 non spot this week trying to spot Ms. Gusterson at the shows. Here are my impressions of NY shows:

Both the Marc Jacobs and Phillip Lim 3.1 womens' collections were stunning.

I thought John Bartlett looked really wearable, nice takes on classics and classic details.

I was surprised that I liked Duckie Brown.

Varvatos was consistant, I really liked his fall show, he rarely excites me though.

Thom Browne + Anthony Goicolea, Ms. Gusterson said the video was neat, I'm not a fan of either man's work.

Cloak is totally not my style, but I like some of the suits with vests. I usually like his long jackets. An entire outfit looks like what one might have worn to Lit or Sweet & Vicious 4-5 years ago.
 

Rye GB

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To follow up on my previous comments:

I agree with Gus that the silhouette's from the Duckie Brown show were very interesting. I have some Varvatos Pants from a couple of seasons ago that are cut very similar..time to put the skinny's away?

The Marc show was the first I've liked in a while, it's a shame that the quality won't be up to par and his size small tops will continue to fit to a Department Store standard (Drop shoulder...euuuchhh!!).

John Bartlett. Can we start a petition to ban this guy from using paper, pattern, scissors and fabric?.
 

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