Discuss exactly how to get a perfect fitting sportcoat/blazer/jacket...

[Reevolving]

As per my "2010 regrettable buys" post, I'm going to toss whatever 1/2-assed jackets are in my closet, and start over from scratch. Instead, I want just one perfect navy or grey jacket that I always wear anytime I need a jacket. The problem is, I'm not really sure how to begin to specify what a perfectly fitting jacket is. Yes, we know it when we see it, but..... Clearly, I don't want wacky faddish fashion fit. Also, the tailor may be "old school" and only understand big baggy cuts from the 1950s. So, you need to know exactly what you want going in. Something that is still appropriate for the office, but can be worn socially. * Yes, the jacket shouldn't be too long. But, I'm not entirely sure how long the jacket should be. When I first came to SF, the rule was the jacket should reach your knuckles and/or just cover the crease of your ass. Do people get jackets shortened? Is it worth it, or is that just too major (balance gets thrown off without redesigning entire suit) Or do you just have to go MTM if you truly want the right length? * Yes, it should have waist suppression. I read it 1000 times on SF, but haven't read once exactly you go about requesting that. But, if I buy something to get altered, I don't exactly know how much to tell a tailor to take it in. If I just say, "take in the waist", he could just take it in 1 inch, and it will still look like a sack suit. Or the tailor might only be used to outfitting old people, or fat people. With a 32-33W, I need to taper the **** out of my shirts. It took many tries to get her to do what I envisioned. In fact, even after 10+ alteration jobs, she still has not tapered them enough. I could bring everything back and say "Taper them more, actually" No shirt I have is perfect, including my 2 MTM shirts. But, I don't have that luxury with jackets. Its a more costly job, and I don't plan to do more than 1 or 2. I assume the same may need to be done with a jacket. But what do I tell him to do? "Make it slim as ****" is too vague. What are some guidelines and parameters to specify when I'm standing there telling the guy with pins in his hand? As you know, it's impossible to tell how something will look when you're wearing it. * No excessive padding in the shoulders. Are there certain brands that do not have excessive padding? My Canali seemed to have excessive padding. In fact, screw it, to be safe, I think I prefer to have zero padding, in order to keep it casual looking. I haven't compared enough jackets to confidently distinguish between excessive vs. slight padding anyway. * I don't like "boat captain" gilt buttons. * I don't want something with too much sheen. No worsted wool. It's just too formal. I want a decently stylish jacket, that doesn't elicit "wow, you're decked out / overdressed / got an interview?" every time I wear it. What sort of fabric should I go for? I don't want to go to some tweed extreme either. Also, if need be, I think I am willing to go the MTM route. I just want this done, and done right. I am not willing to spend $1000+, b/c I just don't think it's necessary. And, b/c I have no idea what I am doing, it is very likely that the money would be wasted on a miss. I don't need cashmere. In fact, I almost prefer a beater, b/c I plan to wear it all the time. I'd rather learn how to alter a thrift jacket, just like how I can now take a generic $20 shirt and have the sleeves and sides tapered into a great fitting shirt. But that takes practice. Also, despite their slim fits, I don't want an entry level Zara or H&M jacket. I don't want something "cheapish" feeling fabric as my main default jacket that I get tons of use out of. If I am only going to have 1 jacket, I'd rather do it right, and have something I can wear for years. Does anyone have photos of what they feel is the ideal fit? Maybe I can use this as a starting point to all this. If I show 5 pictures, and say "Make it look like this", that could work. For example, I think this example of the BB Fitzgerald looks awful. (and boring) From the front, I think you'll agree b/c this outfit looks like LOT like the picture of my ill fitting jacket! (long blue jacket, grey pants) And the jacket is not tapered enough to not look like an old man. So, maybe I don't want a navy jacket after all. Grey? I appreciate the help.

 

[SpooPoker]

tl; dr but

 

[IBJanky]

Reading all of that hurt my eyes.

Sounds like a bigger concern is finding the right tailor. A good tailor can make anything look better.

myke

 

[fcuknu]

 

[Fraiche]

Originally Posted by IBJanky

Sounds like a bigger concern is finding the right tailor. A good tailor can make anything look better.
+100 Saving money on tailoring does more harm than good.

 

[shanker]

Originally Posted by Reevolving

how exactly to get a perfect fitting sportcoat??

you dont want cheap, youre iffy on MTM. you are going to have to compromise dude.

 

[Kentishman]

Print that **** off, take it with you, bingo.

 

[Saltricks]

regarding shortening jackets:

I've done it with moderate to good success. As long as the top of the pocket and the bottom of the jacket is more than 9 inches, it should look pretty good. You lose the exact aesthetic the designer was going for, but honestly, i'd rather have something that fits me better.

Some people will argue against this, but I doubt they are in the same boat as me (44S). Sometimes its a necessary evil if you are trying to get fitting clothes at relatively low cost. Tailor skill is the biggest factor in if it will work.

 

[Ivar]

 

[tunnelrat]

You live in NY, it's not like there's not enough tailors. If you want to save money and have a regular build, you may buy off-the-peg from any respected store and have it altered by a really good tailor. You'll save a lot of money and still look better than 95% of population.

 

[cold war painter]

This is what worked for me:

1. Relax. Realise that you do not understand all the details, and maybe never will.
2. Find a tailor with results you like the look of.
3. Trust the tailor.
4. Wear the jacket.

 

[hermes man]

try check out z zegna

 

[ds2465]

Just go bespoke and choose every little detail yourself.

 

[F. Corbera]

This is really a great thread. Long overdue.

 

[pebblegrain]

Pretty simple 2 step process:

1. Stop making new threads
2. Repeat step 1