DiNocera- Tailor shop in Napoli. My shirt and pant buying experience.

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by AmericanGent, Jun 1, 2013.

  1. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

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    I have been living in Napoli for almost 2 years now. Since my arrival I have been trying to find a way into the next level of Neapolitan tailors- the places where locals buy their clothes. With the help of an Italian co-worker/friend I have made a small breakthrough.

    A few months ago my friend took me to a shop in his Secondigliano neighborhood named “DiNocera”. http://www.sartoriadinocera.it/index.html
    The shop owner Gennaro DiNocera is about 40yrs old and he is not a tailor- rather he is a "modella" and he has tailors, shirt makers, pants guys who do the work in their homes. His tailors work full time for Attolini, Rubinacci, Kiton and the other big houses but in the evenings they do suits for him. While we were there, a little old guy in his 70s showed up to pick up some garments. He was one of the tailors that this shop uses. In talking with this man I learned that he started making clothes when he was 12 years old.

    DiNocera doesn't employ anyone in-house because of the taxes and costs of having employees. Gennaro said he can only do about 2 suits a month. He showed me a semi-finished suit made by a tailor who works for Rubi and said that this suit would sell for 4000+ euro. He sells the same suit for about 1000 euro.

    He also does shirts so I decided to start out by getting a shirt and some linen pants made. I told him that I was looking to have about 10 shirts made- but he told me I could only have one. He told me that after I wear it and wash it a few times I could bring it back and that he would make it perfect and adjust my patterns. Then I can order more. The semi- hand made shirt costs about 130 euro.

    The shirt maker Cosimo (Pictured below with glasses) received the initial measurements from Gennaro and came to my first fitting with a "prova" shirt for me to try.

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    Cosimo took the prova and corrected it, then we had another fitting about 10 days later. (You can see them fussing over my righ shoulder- I stand a bit crooked).
    After the adjustments from my second fitting were made he used the measurements to create my final shirt. Now I will wear and wash it 3-4 times and then take it back for the last fitting. From then on my pattern will be on file and I can get a shirt in about 7-10 days.

    Here's the final shirt in Styleforum approved blue:

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    I asked for semi hand-sewn. Cosimo did way more than I paid for. He did buttons and buttonholes, front yoke, armscye as well as long seams on the arms and body and a rolled stitched bottom.
    [​IMG][​IMG]
    Hand embroidered monogram. I asked for a convertible cuff- there is a long lead on the button which allows you to push it through to the outside and use it like a normal barrel cuff or push it back inside and do a single cuff with a link. I have never had one before and I have no idea how I feel about it yet, but I think it suits my needs. I love a double cuff, but it limits the shirt to wearing with a suit.

    [​IMG][​IMG]


    I picked blue linen for these pants to go with a blue gingham jacket I have.

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    Above is the first fitting- I went back for one more fitting and then picked them up. Below is the finished product.

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    Band sewn buttons and holes, pockets and front placket

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    Shirting used as the inner material. With the hand sewing these were about 180 Euro.

    Gennaro is quick and very professional, he is eager to please and earn more business. I think it would be hard to use him if you were here for only a few days, but if here for a week it might be a possibility.

    I'll report back after a few wearings and let you know how things are going.
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2013


  2. Eustace Tilley

    Eustace Tilley Senior member

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    Great report. Thanks.
     


  3. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    Thanks for sharing. 7-10 days is a miracle.
     


  4. tumbler

    tumbler Member

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    Thanks for sharing. The shirt looks great. I love the shape of the cuffs.
     


  5. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

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    You're most welcome! I am not sure how useful the information will be to the large percentage of the membership- but it may be useful to some. I'll continue to look for the back-alley shops and report what I find!
     


  6. gambit50

    gambit50 Senior member

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    Only skimmed it but very nice post. Your take on the potential use by others is spot on but if you are having pieces made, I think your posts are worthwhile and appreciated.
     


  7. razl

    razl Senior member

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    This is a great post - thanks so much for taking the time and effort in putting it together.

    Plus, congrats on finding the gentleman and the items you're getting - everything just looks fantastic.

    ps - I'm so jealous
     


  8. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

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    The pleasure was mine- thank you for the kind words. I try to make my threads very easy to read and as beneficial to the reading membership as I can- but it always turns out much longer than I want! It's hard to get a 2 month, 5 visit story squeezed down into a few paragraphs!

    Thanks for reading an thanks again for the nice comments.

    P.S., and don't be too jealous- I had to go into the heart of the Camorra crime syndicate's home turf. My friend is a senior Carabinieri so I have a police escort!
    I'm kidding- it is a very safe area and very peaceful considering how many people live there. Parking is a kick in the pills.
     


  9. DocHolliday

    DocHolliday Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's not at all useful to me but I love reading it anyway. This sort of thing really capitalizes on SF's potential. I'm glad to see all the recent diversity, from your reports to Medtech's RA thread.
     


  10. emptym

    emptym Moderator Moderator

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    Really enjoying your threads. Thanks for making them.
     


  11. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

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    Thank you Doc and Emptym- I'm glad that that you enjoyed the thread! This is a rare chance for me- I explain to my friends- you can buy a shirt from BR or JCrew for $100, or you can get a MTM for $150- but I am able to get a bespoke shirt for about $140. Lucky for me my wife is pretty cool about it!
     


  12. razl

    razl Senior member

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    FTFY :slayer:

    ps2 - I'm so jealous.
     


  13. AmericanGent

    AmericanGent Senior member

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    Ahh- you are correct sir!
     


  14. dfoverdx

    dfoverdx Senior member

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    Very very nice report as there is not much information about small artisans/shops in Naples. Just one quick question : is the cloth included in these prices you reported ?
     


  15. comrade

    comrade Senior member

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    Very impressive. I am planning a trip to Naples in the Fall.
    How long would a sport coat take? I do not particularly
    care about hand work except where necessary, eg lapels.
    What matters to me is the cut I want- not NSM house style.
    And of course the fabric. Could this be accomplished in a week?
    Thanks.
     
    Last edited: Jun 1, 2013


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