Dinner jacket question

[Jupiter]

What is the difference between a dinner jacket and a tuxedo? Is a dinner jacket just the jacket from a tuxedo?

Also, what kind of trousers can be worn with a dinner jacket?

Thanks.

 

[Mekk]

"Tuxedo" is just another way of saying dinner jacket. Different circles use different terms but "Tuxedo" was coined first.

Personally I prefer dinner jacket because to me it better represents the attire's purpose - dress for dinner.

With regards to the trousers they should be of the same (black) fabric as the jacket, have a braid covering the seams, be without cuffs and worn with suspenders.

 

[thomaus247]

When people use the words Dinner Jacket these days they are usually referring to a separate jacket of a color other than black to be worn as an alternative to a tuxedo. The classic example is a white dinner jacket. A dinner jacket is meant to be worn with the traditional tuxedo pant and is slightly less dressy than a tuxedo. Dinner jackets can be made of an infinite number of fabrics, from tartan to tone on tone to silk brocade.

I don't believe there is any occasion to use the jacket from a tuxedo by itself. It must always be worn with the matching trousers (that includes the tacky "Denim & .... events were everyone wears jeans and even, gasp, tennis shoes with their tuxedo jackets. Don't do it)

 

[Manton]

"Tuxedo" is an American term, disdained by the British who will always say "Dinner jacket." On Savile Row, you order a "Dinner jacket and trousers" not a "dinner suit."

The French and the Germans call the same coat a "Smoking jacket" or even just a "smoking."

 

[Concordia]

Originally Posted by Manton

On Savile Row, you order a "Dinner jacket and trousers" not a "dinner suit."

Even a 3-pc? "Jkt/trs" is the usual item I get invoiced for with any 2-piece suit for daywear. But a 3-piece is a "suit."

 

[Midnight Blue]

Just please don't call it a "tux"!

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by Concordia

Even a 3-pc? "Jkt/trs" is the usual item I get invoiced for with any 2-piece suit for daywear. But a 3-piece is a "suit."

That I don't know. I do recall that on A&S's price list, "Lounge suit" means 3-piece, and there is an entry for "dinner jacket and trousers." I think you would order the latter, and then add a vest. Not sure. I will be there Wed/Thurs and will ask.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Concordia

Even a 3-pc? "Jkt/trs" is the usual item I get invoiced for with any 2-piece suit for daywear. But a 3-piece is a "suit."

That is exactly how it is written up in the Steed pricelist:

Steed

- B

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

That is exactly how it is written up in the Steed pricelist: Steed - B
Looking at that pricelist, I am taken aback by how little the upcharge is for a dinner jacket and trousers when compared to a normal two piece suit. The upcharge on mine was much, much more. Anyway, I always say tuxedo because I figure that the most important thing is for everybody to understand what I am saying.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by iammatt

Looking at that pricelist, I am taken aback by how little the upcharge is for a dinner jacket and trousers when compared to a normal two piece suit. The upcharge on mine was much, much more.

That is low by SR standards. Most houses upcharge anywhere from 300 to 500 GBP.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by iammatt

Looking at that pricelist, I am taken aback by how little the upcharge is for a dinner jacket and trousers when compared to a normal two piece suit. The upcharge on mine was much, much more.

Am I not a fortunate customer? I really run out of superlatives for Edwin, and I am glad that he has the business to continue to support such a relatively reasonable pricing approach.

Originally Posted by Manton

That is low by SR standards. Most houses upcharge anywhere from 300 to 500 GBP.

I do, in fact, have a dinner jacket and trousers in the works right now from Steed, and I can confirm that despite the more narrow upcharge there, there was no limitation on fabric and materials selection. I ended up choosing a Fisher that is the blackest of black in nearly every light.

What can I say? I like my tailor very much.

- B

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by Manton

That is low by SR standards. Most houses upcharge anywhere from 300 to 500 GBP.
I think I was dinged for a bit over 500

. I suppose it is the cost of putting in the facings as it looks to have taken a good bit of time. Who knows.

 

[Manton]

It's a few things. They are detailed differently, requiring some additional materials and time to put them on. Some of those materials (good silk grosgrain in particular) cost more. And the canvas has to be done a little differently, with a layer of felt over the pad stitching, other wise the underside of the silk facings would get torn to shreds, and eventually start to affect the look of the surface.

I think A&S upcharges 500 pounds for a DJ & trousers, but can't remember exactly.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by Manton

It's a few things. They are detailed differently, requiring some additional materials and time to put them on. Some of those materials (good silk grosgrain in particular) cost more. And the canvas has to be done a little differently, with a layer of felt over the pad stitching, other wise the underside of the silk facings would get torn to shreds, and eventually start to affect the look of the surface.

I think A&S upcharges 500 pounds for a DJ & trousers, but can't remember exactly.
Why do some tailors use silk to pipe the hip pockets? I think this looks awful.

 

[Manton]

Originally Posted by iammatt

Why do some tailors use silk to pipe the hip pockets? I think this looks awful.

Tradition! I like it. Or at least I don't hate it, though mine does not have it.

Logsdail once told me, adamantly, that no SR tailor would ever do such a thing, and that on SR it was considered a sign of "hired clothes." He overstated the case a bit, as I do see it over there.