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Diffusion of Thom Browne influence

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mack11211, Feb 21, 2005.

  1. mack11211

    mack11211 Senior member

    Sep 28, 2004
    Brooklyn USA
    Looking in the March 03 issue of Details at my gym.

    One of their new trends: the short jacket. It's just like a sport coat, to be worn with jeans, etc., only....the jacket is too short.

    Just like Thom Browne.

    The annoying thing here is that the too-short jacket is now being made by a number of fashion houses, and will soon be snapped up by many trendoids.

    Details says the shortness of the the jacket is what separates it from a jacket that one would wear for business. The sexual effect is to play peekaboo with the bum, halfway to the butt showing-effect of an eisenhower jacket or a toreador outfit, only with suit jacket styling.

  2. AlanC

    AlanC Senior member

    Nov 7, 2003
    Heart of America
    Yeah, most do better to have full coverage...
  3. cuffthis

    cuffthis Senior member

    Jul 19, 2004
    New Hope, PA
    Yet another example of "fashion" over classicism.
  4. Bergdorf Goodwill

    Bergdorf Goodwill Senior member

    Dec 7, 2004
    I'm fond of shorter jackets, really.

    I realize people hate this guy because he looks ridiculous in photos, etc. but it's done to draw attention.
  5. Luc-Emmanuel

    Luc-Emmanuel Senior member

    Feb 2, 2005
    Paris, France
    I like shorter jacket as well. The roman 50s look, incredibly sharp.
    Longer jacket with a lot of waist supression looks dated to me.

  6. Brian SD

    Brian SD Senior member

    Feb 5, 2004
    I'm with these guys.

    Thom Browne isn't making business clothing.

    I like Thom Browne's suits, and I like the shorter jacket. It's been going on for awhile, with the more contemporary fashion designers. My Helmut Lang jacket is 30" long in the back.
  7. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

    Mar 8, 2002
    Moscow, Idaho
    I've liked the short jacket since Prada *re-introduced" her verision of the classic Milanese cut in the early 90's (see all of my previous posts dating back several years on this subject if you think I'm just jumping on a bandwagon,) but there is short and there is too short. I think a casual jacket, worn with jeans and other streetwear clothing, works great when it just barely reaches the bottom of your butt. A little shorter (maybe up to an an inch) is okay, depending on the person. Much longer, and it just looks wierd.

    As for the original picture and writeup, the writeup was banal (as usual) and the picture sucked. I don't like a built up shoulder on a casual jacket; and I personally like a natural shoulder with a little bit of structure because I have sloped shoulders. But I think that in any case, some shoulder structure is necessary, and besides that, that guy looked like he was going to rip the jacket down the back seam if he reach both arms forward. There is more to a good fit than just the length.

    And as for Thom Browne, I liked his 50's Sears catalogue, geek chic inspiration, although it is hardly original, but hate his clothes. Not the clothes in and of themselves, but the way they have been overhyped and are overpriced.

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