• I'm happy to introduce the Styleforum Happy Hour, our brand new podcast featuring lively discussion about menswear and the fashion industry. In the inaugural edition, a discussion of what's going on in retail today. Please check it out on the Journal. All episodes will be also be available soon on your favorite podcast platform.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

Difficult to turn a 46L into a 46R?

GMF

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2006
Messages
82
Reaction score
0
If we're talking about a HF or Oxxford jacket, how difficult would it be for a tailor to make a 46R from a 46L by shortening the hem of the jacket by two inches and shortening the sleeves two inches? (NB: sleeve buttons are non-functioning.)
 

Ranjeev

Senior Member
Joined
Nov 11, 2002
Messages
353
Reaction score
11
It can be done but that doesn't mean you should. It will throw the look off if you shorten the jacket. The pockets will appear too low and the vents, if any, will look odd.
 

GMF

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2006
Messages
82
Reaction score
0
Originally Posted by Ranjeev
It can be done but that doesn't mean you should. It will throw the look off if you shorten the jacket. The pockets will appear too low and the vents, if any, will look odd.

Well, I'm 6' tall, so I can pull off wearing a long sometimes as long as the sleeves are the correct length.

I think I may get this suit and have the sleeves shortened and see how it does. Price is too good to pass up. (Ebay, of course.)
 

GMF

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2006
Messages
82
Reaction score
0
Well, as it turns out, I was thinking about a different suit when I started this thread. The suit in question is actually a Southwick, and the length is fine at 33". Only the sleeves will need to be taken up about 2.25". Not bad for fifty bucks.

Ebay can be great for someone who wants to wear hand-tailored suits on an S&K budget. hehe



 

Full Canvas

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2006
Messages
1,057
Reaction score
3
Originally Posted by GMF
If we're talking about a HF or Oxxford jacket, how difficult would it be for a tailor to make a 46R from a 46L by shortening the hem of the jacket by two inches and shortening the sleeves two inches? (NB: sleeve buttons are non-functioning.)

The only way is not to shorten the hem and thereby destroy every proportion on the jacket.

The only proper way is to take the entire jacket apart and take-in the cloth at the top shoulder seams where the front and back panels join. This is ridiculously expensive and requires major panel and arm-hole re-cutting. Additionally, it is quite possible that the sleeves would require additional tapering, not merely shortening. Most decent tailors would charge you at least five or six hundred dollars to properly make these alterations.

Hypothetically, and no slight to HF, I wouldn't think their garments are worth the investment in such major alterations. The Oxxford, again hypothetically, might be a different story if your original cost was modest enough.

Most Soutwick suits are only partially canvassed. But if the eBay suit in question from your later post needs only sleeves shortened and the price is right for you, don't you think it's better all around?

Good luck!

__________________________________
 

GMF

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2006
Messages
82
Reaction score
0
Originally Posted by Full Canvas
Most Soutwick suits are only partially canvassed. But if the eBay suit in question from your later post needs only sleeves shortened and the price is right for you, don't you think it's better all around?

Yes. And I bought it. It was actually the suit I was thinking about when I posted my question about alterations. It's just that I'd looked at so many suits on ebay today I thought the one I was thinking about getting was an Oxxford or HF.

The following wording on the Southwick web site would seem to indicate they don't use a fused front:

The multi-layered, all natural fabric half-canvas front is stitched into the garment; and the roll of the lapel is permanently stitched into place. This gives a permanent shape to the garment that will continue to fit properly after wearing and dry-cleaning. Many manufacturers use front foundations fused to the fabric, rather than stitched. Fusing doesn't have the same permanence as a stitch.
 

j

(stands for Jerk)
Admin
Spamminator Moderator
Joined
Feb 17, 2002
Messages
14,914
Reaction score
98
Originally Posted by GMF
Yes. And I bought it. It was actually the suit I was thinking about when I posted my question about alterations. It's just that I'd looked at so many suits on ebay today I thought the one I was thinking about getting was an Oxxford or HF.

The following wording on the Southwick web site would seem to indicate they don't use a fused front:

I don't think I've ever seen a fused Southwick, and I've seen a lot of them from all time periods.
 

Full Canvas

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 10, 2006
Messages
1,057
Reaction score
3
Originally Posted by GMF
Yes. And I bought it. It was actually the suit I was thinking about when I posted my question about alterations.

Great! Now you don't have to try to make a long into a regular. You'll save time and money.

Originally Posted by GMF
The following wording on the Southwick web site would seem to indicate they don't use a fused front: Quote:The multi-layered, all natural fabric half-canvas front is stitched into the garment

What Soutwick describes as "half-canvas", is what I refer to as "partially canvassed."

________________________________
 

Earthmover

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2005
Messages
586
Reaction score
0
I don't quite understand the need for this. Most American brands end up at 33" (or a bit shorter; my Oxxfords are about 32.75") if they are a long. If you're 6', I think 33" would be okay, if maybe barely. Worst case, you'd need to only shorten 1", which would be less dangerous than taking 2" off, which will most definitely make the jacket look off.

The sleeves, especially if they don't have vents for working buttons, are perfectly fine to shorten. On the length, I had a 33.5" Isaia in 56L that I shortened about 1", and that didn't make the jacket look too bad, so I think it can be worthwhile. I'm about 6' and 1/2 inches, so I just don't understand why you would need to do 2". But if that's the only way, I would strongly recommend against it.
 

GMF

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2006
Messages
82
Reaction score
0
Originally Posted by Earthmover
I'm about 6' and 1/2 inches, so I just don't understand why you would need to do 2". But if that's the only way, I would strongly recommend against it.

If you will read all my posts in this thread you will see that I had two suits confused. The suit that I actually got (the Southwick) is 33", which should be fine on me. (Only the 27" sleeves will need to be shortened.) On the other hand, when you start getting up to 35" on overall length, that looks goofy on me (and, IMO, on anyone who is 6').
 

Earthmover

Senior Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2005
Messages
586
Reaction score
0
Originally Posted by GMF
If you will read all my posts in this thread you will see that I had two suits confused. The suit that I actually got (the Southwick) is 33", which should be fine on me. (Only the 27" sleeves will need to be shortened.) On the other hand, when you start getting up to 35" on overall length, that looks goofy on me (and, IMO, on anyone who is 6').

Ah, sorry. Confusion. I don't think I've ever seen a Long longer than 34" (italian brands), and you definitely should not be buying XTs. But yes, those are good suits. I have a Southwick that I like very much (from STP), but I think the partial fusing is quite extensive, and includes parts of the lapels. But the cloth is good and makes for an excellent suit as a whole, so no complaints.
 

SGladwell

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 11, 2006
Messages
1,257
Reaction score
0
Originally Posted by j
I don't think I've ever seen a fused Southwick, and I've seen a lot of them from all time periods.

Really? My only experience with the brand is from thrift stores (and since most of 'em have been in Atlanta, often they were badged as having come from local men's store H. Stockton) but I've never seen a canvassed one. At least not fully canvassed. The ones I've seen I'd put at just a notch above the level of the old licensed but American-made British stuff. You know, old-logo "Burberrys'", Gieves & Hawkes, etc.

I've also never, ever seen a properly made Tom James suit.
 

NYCESQ

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 2, 2006
Messages
45
Reaction score
0
I own a number of HF suits. Their regulars are cut to short for me, while their long's are cut too long. However, I think that their longs tend to be cut longer than other manufacturers, and their is usually ample room to shorten the jacket up to an inch without throwing off the overall alignment. I have had this done several times and I have always been pleased with the results.
 

GMF

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jun 24, 2006
Messages
82
Reaction score
0
The Southwick suit arrived today and I'm happy to report that it is full canvas.
 

Styleforum is proudly sponsored by

Featured Sponsor

How many pairs of shoes do you own?

  • 1 - 4

    Votes: 32 3.8%
  • 5 - 10

    Votes: 144 17.1%
  • 11 - 20

    Votes: 278 33.1%
  • 21 - 30

    Votes: 132 15.7%
  • 31 - 40

    Votes: 71 8.4%
  • 41 - 50

    Votes: 49 5.8%
  • 51 - 60

    Votes: 25 3.0%
  • 61 - 70

    Votes: 22 2.6%
  • 71 - 80

    Votes: 17 2.0%
  • 81 - 90

    Votes: 8 1.0%
  • 91 - 100

    Votes: 9 1.1%
  • 100+

    Votes: 54 6.4%

Related Threads

Staff online

Forum statistics

Threads
429,234
Messages
9,230,933
Members
193,766
Latest member
salvpi
Top