Differences in Men's Hat Quality?

[JFWR]

Dear everyone,

I've recently been interested in looking at men's hats. I've noticed that the price range for fur felt hats range from around 200 to 1500 dollars. What makes for such a radical difference in price?

What would be the advantage over the 1500 dollar vs. the 200 dollar hat?

Might the difference rest in the use of different furs, e.g. rabbit, or rabbit-blend, instead of strictly beaver?

Is it the country of origin? I have no idea where, say, Stetson makes their hats, but I know that Optimo makes their hats right in Chicago.

Is the pricing also reflective of how few men wear hats nowadays? It's definitely an antiquated look at this point.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

I’m not a hat person. I pass by Optimo everyday during my commute though. I believe all of their hats are custom made and their showroom in the Monadnock is just that; a showroom.

I guess it’s like everything else menswear related. The quality of the raw materials and the amount of handwork makes a difference.

 

[JFWR]

I’m not a hat person. I pass by Optimo everyday during my commute though. I believe all of their hats are custom made and their showroom in the Monadnock is just that; a showroom.

I guess it’s like everything else menswear related. The quality of the raw materials and the amount of handwork makes a difference.

Optimo's hats aren't all custom made, but they do offer custom made. I went in the other day and had a great conversation and a real desire to buy their hats.

When I spoke to my Canadian friend she was surprised it cost that much as the actual price of beaver pelt is really marginal.

I mean, I am sure there is a combination of factors here, I just want to understand why an optimo hat is worth more than a Stetson or any other brand for that matter. Is it the prestige here? Is it a reputation? Sometimes in men's wear, you get a lot of stuff that is exclusively about the name of the brand rather than any real measure of quality.

 

[JFWR]

Anyone have any insight on this matter?

 

[suitedcboy]

I have been a hat guy over 40 years and 200 hats. The felt quality varies widely and the finishing steps vary the end product greatly. I have no idea about Chinese hats so my experience is from US made hat bodies and Portuguese hat bodies. I do not think I have ever had a hat that was made from Czech supplied hat bodies. I also do not know about any wool felt as I only had one of those many years back and that was the end of that. Beaver is the best felt but rabbit felt can be damn close when finished with great care. There are beaver/cashmere and beaver/mink blends but I could not tell those from higher end beaver. Beaver does come in grades as the hair from different parts of the pelt vary from finer to coarser with the finer hair taking more hairs and those hairs are a smaller percentage of the pelt making that the most expensive hat body. 100% beaver is the most tolerant of getting soaking wet but good beaver/rabbit blends do well also. The price varies due to real cost of material, the raw hat body and the sweatband and trim, and the mount of finishing time. The hatters offering true custom fit if your head is an irregular shape are $300-ish more. The custom fit requires either in person fitting or a measurement and shape device be sent to you that can map your head shape on a card that can be used in a pattern device in their shop. Some more well known hatters will cost more due to the status of their brand. The expensive beaver bodies will finish to a velour like feel but the coarse hair beaver bodies can get very close with a skilled hatter's touch. There are some hatters in the Pacific Northwest that turn out very nice 100% beaver fedoras for under $400. Beaver/rabbit blends are close to $300. There are a couple in Northern Europe that are in that range that also make very nice hats for little more than that amount. Stetson has fedoras but I have not seen many in 100% beaver and they cost more. When I have seen them in person I was not impressed with finish quality for their higher price.

 

[JFWR]

I have been a hat guy over 40 years and 200 hats. The felt quality varies widely and the finishing steps vary the end product greatly. I have no idea about Chinese hats so my experience is from US made hat bodies and Portuguese hat bodies. I do not think I have ever had a hat that was made from Czech supplied hat bodies. I also do not know about any wool felt as I only had one of those many years back and that was the end of that. Beaver is the best felt but rabbit felt can be damn close when finished with great care. There are beaver/cashmere and beaver/mink blends but I could not tell those from higher end beaver. Beaver does come in grades as the hair from different parts of the pelt vary from finer to coarser with the finer hair taking more hairs and those hairs are a smaller percentage of the pelt making that the most expensive hat body. 100% beaver is the most tolerant of getting soaking wet but good beaver/rabbit blends do well also. The price varies due to real cost of material, the raw hat body and the sweatband and trim, and the mount of finishing time. The hatters offering true custom fit if your head is an irregular shape are $300-ish more. The custom fit requires either in person fitting or a measurement and shape device be sent to you that can map your head shape on a card that can be used in a pattern device in their shop. Some more well known hatters will cost more due to the status of their brand. The expensive beaver bodies will finish to a velour like feel but the coarse hair beaver bodies can get very close with a skilled hatter's touch. There are some hatters in the Pacific Northwest that turn out very nice 100% beaver fedoras for under $400. Beaver/rabbit blends are close to $300. There are a couple in Northern Europe that are in that range that also make very nice hats for little more than that amount. Stetson has fedoras but I have not seen many in 100% beaver and they cost more. When I have seen them in person I was not impressed with finish quality for their higher price.

Excellent. Thank you! I am very impressed.

Got any advice on makers I should look into if I want a beaver felt hat?

 

[Andy57]

Excellent. Thank you! I am very impressed.

Got any advice on makers I should look into if I want a beaver felt hat?

Optimo.

Honestly, hats are no different than anything else: you get what you pay for. Cost of raw materials is one thing; the best beaver felt is not cheap regardless of what you may think. And, like many things, the degree of care in the make and finishing, plus after-sales service is part of what you pay for.

 

[JFWR]

Optimo.

Honestly, hats are no different than anything else: you get what you pay for. Cost of raw materials is one thing; the best beaver felt is not cheap regardless of what you may think. And, like many things, the degree of care in the make and finishing, plus after-sales service is part of what you pay for.

Optimo does have impeccable hats.

 

[Andy57]

Here are three of my Optimo felts:

Top left is custom Dearborn in Blue Pearl beaver felt. Top right is a custom Dearborn in brown beaver felt. Bottom left is a custom copy of a Stetson Stratoliner in a vintage alabaster beaver felt body.

 

[duffyfluffy123]

I have been a hat guy over 40 years and 200 hats. The felt quality varies widely and the finishing steps vary the end product greatly. I have no idea about Chinese hats so my experience is from US made hat bodies and Portuguese hat bodies. I do not think I have ever had a hat that was made from Czech supplied hat bodies. I also do not know about any wool felt as I only had one of those many years back and that was the end of that. Beaver is the best felt but rabbit felt can be damn close when finished with great care. There are beaver/cashmere and beaver/mink blends but I could not tell those from higher end beaver. Beaver does come in grades as the hair from different parts of the pelt vary from finer to coarser with the finer hair taking more hairs and those hairs are a smaller percentage of the pelt making that the most expensive hat body. 100% beaver is the most tolerant of getting soaking wet but good beaver/rabbit blends do well also. The price varies due to real cost of material, the raw hat body and the sweatband and trim, and the mount of finishing time. The hatters offering true custom fit if your head is an irregular shape are $300-ish more. The custom fit requires either in person fitting or a measurement and shape device be sent to you that can map your head shape on a card that can be used in a pattern device in their shop. Some more well known hatters will cost more due to the status of their brand. The expensive beaver bodies will finish to a velour like feel but the coarse hair beaver bodies can get very close with a skilled hatter's touch. There are some hatters in the Pacific Northwest that turn out very nice 100% beaver fedoras for under $400. Beaver/rabbit blends are close to $300. There are a couple in Northern Europe that are in that range that also make very nice hats for little more than that amount. Stetson has fedoras but I have not seen many in 100% beaver and they cost more. When I have seen them in person I was not impressed with finish quality for their higher price.

What makers in Northern Europe do you recommend?
Regards

 

[mr monty]

What makers in Northern Europe do you recommend?
Regards

I have several from Hornskov in Denmark. The quality is very good. His prices have gone up since last year. The day for finding a quality custom-made fedora (or off the rack) for $300 is gone.

 

[mr monty]

Excellent. Thank you! I am very impressed.

Got any advice on makers I should look into if I want a beaver felt hat?

Collection - landing – Hornskov (hornskovhats.com)

 

[Iluvlacquer]

Dear everyone,

I've recently been interested in looking at men's hats. I've noticed that the price range for fur felt hats range from around 200 to 1500 dollars. What makes for such a radical difference in price?

What would be the advantage over the 1500 dollar vs. the 200 dollar hat?

Might the difference rest in the use of different furs, e.g. rabbit, or rabbit-blend, instead of strictly beaver?

Is it the country of origin? I have no idea where, say, Stetson makes their hats, but I know that Optimo makes their hats right in Chicago.

Is the pricing also reflective of how few men wear hats nowadays? It's definitely an antiquated look at this point.

 

[Iluvlacquer]

These were custom made in Hollywood

 

[Duke Santos]

I’m not a hat person. I pass by Optimo everyday during my commute though. I believe all of their hats are custom made and their showroom in the Monadnock is just that; a showroom.

I guess it’s like everything else menswear related. The quality of the raw materials and the amount of handwork makes a difference.

You're correct that the Loop location is just a showroom. Optimo hats, though, are all made at the company's original location in the Beverly neighborhood and the far SW corner of the city.