Differences between types of wool

[Jazzthief]

I am somewhat confused about the different types of wool that are used for clothing and knitwear. I understand that cashmere and merino wool come from specific breeds of sheep, but what is the difference between regular wool and lambswool? They both come from sheep, no?

Also, would rabbit fur be sufficent for an ushanka type hat for cold winters. I cannot find my grandfather's ushanka and certainly want to purchase a good and lasting ushanka, not a cheap knock-off with horrendous Soviet badges.

 

[Nobilis Animus]

I am somewhat confused about the different types of wool that are used for clothing and knitwear. I understand that cashmere and merino wool come from specific breeds of sheep, but what is the difference between regular wool and lambswool? They both come from sheep, no?

Also, would rabbit fur be sufficent for an ushanka type hat for cold winters. I cannot find my grandfather's ushanka and certainly want to purchase a good and lasting ushanka, not a cheap knock-off with horrendous Soviet badges.

Lambswool is the first shearing of a sheep, while anything like 'pure new wool' or 'virgin wool' denotes regular sheep's wool. Lambswool is, on the whole, much softer and useful for scarves or anything in direct contact with the skin, but regular wool can be more hard-wearing and better for weaving actual garments. For knitwear it's a matter of preference.

One of the things you lose from going solely the lambswool route is that some wool properties aren't fully realized until the sheep is grown older. So if you were on the lookout for a sweater with a lot of lanolin coating, for example, it would have to be wool from a mature sheep.

Rabbit fur would certainly be a warm and more budget-friendly option for a ushanka, but if you can bear the cost I would recommend sheared beaver much more highly. It's softer, not so 'fluffy' looking (and therefore slightly sleeker), and the warmest hat you'll ever wear. I have one like this - but it's really only suitable with overcoats, IMO.

 

[Andy57]

I am somewhat confused about the different types of wool that are used for clothing and knitwear. I understand that cashmere and merino wool come from specific breeds of sheep, but what is the difference between regular wool and lambswool? They both come from sheep, no?

Also, would rabbit fur be sufficent for an ushanka type hat for cold winters. I cannot find my grandfather's ushanka and certainly want to purchase a good and lasting ushanka, not a cheap knock-off with horrendous Soviet badges.

In addition to @Nobilis Animus's excellent advice, cashmere is a fiber that comes from goats, not sheep. Merino wool comes from the Merino breed of sheep and is generally finer than regular wool.

 

[Jazzthief]

Lambswool is the first shearing of a sheep, while anything like 'pure new wool' or 'virgin wool' denotes regular sheep's wool. Lambswool is, on the whole, much softer and useful for scarves or anything in direct contact with the skin, but regular wool can be more hard-wearing and better for weaving actual garments. For knitwear it's a matter of preference.

One of the things you lose from going solely the lambswool route is that some wool properties aren't fully realized until the sheep is grown older. So if you were on the lookout for a sweater with a lot of lanolin coating, for example, it would have to be wool from a mature sheep.

Rabbit fur would certainly be a warm and more budget-friendly option for a ushanka, but if you can bear the cost I would recommend sheared beaver much more highly. It's softer, not so 'fluffy' looking (and therefore slightly sleeker), and the warmest hat you'll ever wear. I have one like this - but it's really only suitable with overcoats, IMO.

In addition to @Nobilis Animus's excellent advice, cashmere is a fiber that comes from goats, not sheep. Merino wool comes from the Merino breed of sheep and is generally finer than regular wool.

Very insightful answers that I sincerely do appreciate!

A couple of follow-up questions, however:
1) What benefits does lanolin provide for garments;
2) Do you have any recommendations for places where from I could purchase a beaver fur ushanka? I would wear it with an overcoat anyway as it really does not go well with other jackets or coats.

 

[Nobilis Animus]

Very insightful answers that I sincerely do appreciate!

A couple of follow-up questions, however:
1) What benefits does lanolin provide for garments;
2) Do you have any recommendations for places where from I could purchase a beaver fur ushanka? I would wear it with an overcoat anyway as it really does not go well with other jackets or coats.

Wool fibres that still retain lanolin throughout the finishing process impart a kind of water-resistance and 'slipperiness' to the wool. This is traditional for certain knitwear that was originally developed to help repel rain or sea spray, like the Guernsey: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Guernsey_(clothing) Knitwear like this can be slightly harder-wearing, in my experience, and a tight knit combined with a lanolin-rich wool lends a nice drape.

I bought my hat from a local hatter who is now sadly out of business. There are plenty of options though - a quick google search turned up this: https://www.furhatworld.com/sheared-beaver-full-fur-russian-hat-p-769.html

I can't speak to the quality of that site in particular, but it does give you an idea of what to look for, as well as the approximate cost.

 

[Phileas Fogg]

Cashmere comes from a breed of goat; the cashmere goat. There are other breeds such as the pashmina goat which is where, you guessed it, pashmina comes from.

Merino wool comes from Merino sheep. If you ever see Saxxon wool (BB carried it) that comes from another specific breed.

There’s also BFL, blue faced Leicester, wool which comes from a breed of the same name.

If any of what I’ve written is redundant, my apologies. I’m too lazy to read what came before.