differences between C%J's handgrade and benchgrade thanks

[yuwan721]

hello all. who can tell me the differences between C&J's audley and connaught. At first I wanna get audley. but I need a F fitting. for i like round toe with F fitting so I choose connaught. I wonder if audley's calfskin is much better than connaught? another question is which brand has most beautiful shoes using cordovan? AE? alden ? else? many thanks.

 

[dieworkwear]

Both grades are Goodyear welted and machine made, but handgrades feature finer calf leathers, asymmetric lasts, and oak bark tanned soles.* The soles also have channeled stitching (which means the stitching is hidden), instead of ones that are stitched aloft (which means the stitching is visible). In short, they're better constructed, more handsome, and are made from better materials.


* Oak bark tanned leather is a type of hide that has been tanned exclusively from vegetable agents made from barks and fruits. The process takes place inside of an oak-lined pit that is ten feet deep. The hide sits in the solution for about a year. There are no mechanical movements, no chemical catalysts, and the solution isn't heated; the hide just sits for a year. It's a slow process, but the leather that comes out is very lightweight, very hardwearing, and very flexible. It is also highly water-repellent, but very breathable. This makes it perfect for soles.

 

[Blackhood]

^ Very informative.

I would be interested to know how these relate to the Top Draw line and also the price ranges for each line.

 

[yuwan721]

Originally Posted by dieworkwear

Both grades are Goodyear welted and machine made, but handgrades feature finer calf leathers, asymmetric lasts, and oak bark tanned soles.* The soles also have channeled stitching (which means the stitching is hidden), instead of ones that are stitched aloft (which means the stitching is visible). In short, they're better constructed, more handsome, and are made from better materials.


* Oak bark tanned leather is a type of hide that has been tanned exclusively from vegetable agents made from barks and fruits. The process takes place inside of an oak-lined pit that is ten feet deep. The hide sits in the solution for about a year. There are no mechanical movements, no chemical catalysts, and the solution isn't heated; the hide just sits for a year. It's a slow process, but the leather that comes out is very lightweight, very hardwearing, and very flexible. It is also highly water-repellent, but very breathable. This makes it perfect for soles.

very helpful thank you so much

 

[sellahi22]

Originally Posted by dieworkwear

Both grades are Goodyear welted and machine made, but handgrades feature finer calf leathers, asymmetric lasts, and oak bark tanned soles.* The soles also have channeled stitching (which means the stitching is hidden), instead of ones that are stitched aloft (which means the stitching is visible). In short, they're better constructed, more handsome, and are made from better materials.


* Oak bark tanned leather is a type of hide that has been tanned exclusively from vegetable agents made from barks and fruits. The process takes place inside of an oak-lined pit that is ten feet deep. The hide sits in the solution for about a year. There are no mechanical movements, no chemical catalysts, and the solution isn't heated; the hide just sits for a year. It's a slow process, but the leather that comes out is very lightweight, very hardwearing, and very flexible. It is also highly water-repellent, but very breathable. This makes it perfect for soles.

Informative post, but I am confused by the asymmetric last point. I'm wearing a pair of C&J last 341 shoes today, and they look asymmetric to my eye.

I have been impressed by the quality of the handgrade shoes I've handled, but I just can't abide the pointy 337 last. If only they would do some 341s in handgrade quality.

 

[lee_44106]

Originally Posted by Blackhood

^ Very informative.

I would be interested to know how these relate to the Top Draw line and also the price ranges for each line.

Top Drawer is an Edward Green offering, not Crockett & Jones.

Benchgrade goes up to $600
Hangrade goes up to about $800

Top Drawer will run you $1800