Difference in detail customization between MTM and Bespoke

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by paradoxical3, Jun 13, 2012.

  1. paradoxical3

    paradoxical3 Well-Known Member

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    I just ordered my first MTM item, a navy sportcoat from a well regarded local tailor. I did as much research as possible beforehand, and I had a good experience at the shop.

    That being said, I'm confused at the difference in customization between bespoke and MTM. I've searched and read a lot of threads here, but the experience most people report wasn't consistent with what I experienced today. People seem to say that on bespoke, "every detail can be customized" where on MTM, you're stuck choosing between "a few different stock models" which have limited customization.

    I realize that bespoke is based on a pattern that is unique to me, and this isn't the case with my jacket - there isn't multiple fittings, just one "adjustment" fitting and then a final fitting (where hopefully I can take it home). However, I was able to customize literally any aspect of the jacket I wanted. I chose the fabric, lining, lapel width, gorge placement, armhole height, functional cuffs, the number and type of buttons, pocket types, interior pockets, etc. Aside from the fit, what is there possibly left to customize from bespoke? Is the unique pattern and better fit the only advantage?
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2012


  2. Mr. Moo

    Mr. Moo Boxercise Toughguy

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    When you go bespoke, you get to make a thread about your experience. When you go MTM, you get to make a thread about asking about bespoke.
     


  3. paradoxical3

    paradoxical3 Well-Known Member

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    That settles it, I'll do bespoke next time.
     


  4. sinnedk

    sinnedk Senior member

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    :lol:
     


  5. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    I guess it depends on MTM program. Some have little customization options while others let you change just about anything.
     


  6. E TF

    E TF Senior member

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    I think CDHagg posted once something to the effect that there was no point going bespoke if you couldn't have obviously customized details so that everyone knows its bespoke. This is completely arse about tit, and is the sort of thinking that leads to contrast stitching around your button holes.

    Customising the details is a fun but minor benefit to both MTM and bespoke. If anything, in my experience, MTM programs offer more customisation opportunities than bespoke. In bespoke, the cutter will have an opinion on what suits you, and what suits the cloth you've chosen, and you'd be mad to disregard them - it's part of what you're paying for. And half the time the tailor does what they fancy doing anyway. Indeed I would be suspicious of any place that offered complete freedom to direct things like armhole height, lapel width, gorge placement - I mean, we might talk about my preferences, but it's basically their job to get that sort of thing right.
     
    Last edited: Jun 14, 2012


  7. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Yes there are many tailors like this and it sucks. At least if they know what they're doing their advice is worth having, but I had to switch tailors several times (and this wasn't even bespoke, just RTW alterations) because they insisted in hemming my pants at floor height.
     


  8. GBR

    GBR Senior member

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    Quite right
     


  9. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    There is definitely variation in how much customization is available through MTM. For instance at SuitSupply I think you start with one of their basic models and adjust some measurement, but can't change, for instance, the lapel width or even style IIRC.
     


  10. JayJay

    JayJay Senior member

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    To me, the major difference is in getting a cut that is perfect for your body more so than the details one is able to select.
     


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