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Diagnose My Suit (Pictures included)

bathtime

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Please help me decide whether to keep this Isaia suit, and if so, what alterations are necessary for a good fit (the pants are baggy at the bottom because they're unhemmed). I've included pictures with the jacket open, closed, and removed to show the pants fit. If I don't go the OTR route, I was considering a Vietnam trip to visit Dung. Thanks very much for your advice.


 

Dragon

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The jacket and pants actually don`t look bad. If you wore the suit with a crisp, nice fitting shirt the suit would look 10x better.
 

bathtime

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Originally Posted by Dragon
The jacket and pants actually don`t look bad. If you wore the suit with a crisp, nice fitting shirt the suit would look 10x better.

Yes, please ignore the ill-fitting shirt (and crooked tie).
 

jamesbond

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Looks to me like the chest and waist could use some taking in. Sleeves look ok but it would help if your shirt cuffs were a bit tighter. Yes, pants need to be hemmed and shoes look very big and bulky (I know, you didnt ask about the shoes). Hows the shoulders fit? thats the main issue if the shoulders dont fit well then return it.
 

bathtime

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The shoulders do fit well. Nice lightly padded construction. I think the left suit sleeve appears shorter only because that shirt sleeve is exposed more. As for the shoes (Ermenegildo Zegna's bought at the Barney's warehouse sale a couple of years ago), I was wearing them the other day and realized for the first time there's about 3 inches of extra space at the toe. Confusing as they're labeled my size 10 — unless they were intended for the UK market. I will look into some discount Allen Edmonds.
 

Charley

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The suit is slightly large across the back. It does lay well across the neck.
I would like a slightly higher button stance. And a bit less shoulder padding.
The jacket seems a bit tight. And, looking at the sleeves, it seems that the arm scye is terribly low/ large, causing the bunching in the sleeve. The arm set seems to be causing wrinkles in the sleeve. It could be from the stance for that one pictue.
Sleeve length and trouser length adjustments are normal and to be expected. Nothing to evaluate there. Show some linen and "Shakin' not breakin' in the way to go with those adjustments.
 

tiecollector

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I'd try a size down on the jacket. I would alter the pants to have little or no break. The shirt isn't that bad, it is a little lose though. The collar could be .25 - .5" smaller and the shirt needs a slimmer cut.

Not bad overall though.
 

Sator

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Originally Posted by texas_jack
Looks good to me. Maybe it is an optical illusion, but it looks like your left sleeve could be a little longer. Finally, tell me you're not wearing those shoes.

The reason it looks that way is because of a dropped left shoulder.

The main thing I can see is excessively bagginess in the seat of the trousers - this can be take in a bit if the waist is roomy enough.

As for the coat, it seems OK to me. If there is any room I would add a touch more waist suppression but with the coat buttoned there is already the start of an X shape fold around the top button suggesting that it is already snug fitting, but this could just be a coincidence and related to the moment the picture was taken because the creases around the shouder blade and the fullnes with the coat unbuttoned suggests there is plenty of room. The trouser hems are a bit too long.

Yes, Oxford shoes are better with a suit. And yes, the shirt needs to be take in at the waist and the left sleeve needs to be shortened. A cutaway collar would be better for your build.
 

Tibo

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My god! What happened to your face ?
 

bathtime

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Thanks everyone.

Charley, yes, after closer inspection of the jacket, you are right about the armholes being large and finishing low. There's a lot of fabric there to bunch up. I have skinny arms too.

After looking at other well-fitting suit photos on this site, it does seem that the jacket (38R) either needs to be taken in, or I should try a size smaller. I'm 5"10, 145, and measured my chest at 36". The chest on this jacket measures 41" and the shoulders 17.75". I currently wear a size 30 pants, whereas the waist on these suit trousers is 32.

I've attached a couple more pictures below in which I'm wearing two different sportcoats, both of which I think have a closer/better fit. Am I correct in thinking so?

 

Dragon

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To me, both sportcoats look like they fit much better than the original suit you posted. They are still a little large though.
 

tiecollector

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Originally Posted by Dragon
To me, both sportcoats look like they fit much better than the original suit you posted. They are still a little large though.


+1 The shoulders are too wide.
 

bathtime

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Originally Posted by tiecollector
Quote:Originally Posted by Dragon
To me, both sportcoats look like they fit much better than the original suit you posted. They are still a little large though.

+1 The shoulders are too wide.


Still too big, eh. Good to know. Thanks, I'll return the suit then and try a size smaller.
 

Max

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These jackets make you look fat. Size down.
 

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