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Designing a new suit - what details are you looking for?

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by eHaberdasher, Apr 28, 2008.

  1. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    Well, not everybody has somebody to tell them how to take a picture. Oh, wait...

    She was out, which was why I was allowed to play dress up for my efriends in the first place.
     
  2. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I just received my Benjamin suit. (Quick work, Ben!) I ordered the Navy Herringbone in a 44R.

    Thank you once again for giving my suit a try and for your very comprehensive review - I'm sure it was helpful for many. I'm just sorry that it didn't work out as well for you as we had both hoped.

    Fabric: The navy herringbone is a Super 150s wool. As you can see in the pictures, it has a definite sheen to it. Most of these photos were taken with a flash, which enhances the effect, but it's very real. Some may like that, some may not. It's not my cup of tea, but YMMV. Note the Benjamin hanger too.

    Indeed the 150's navy herringbone definitely has a sheen to it - admittedly more than we expected. It didn't seem to have as much when I was looking at the swatch that was only a few square inches! The same goes for the black shadow-striped suit - that one also has distinct sheen. The navy shadowstripe has a little less, but the solid dark charcoal (our suit separates) has minimal sheen. The flannel in the brownish charcoal obviously does not have any.


    The canvassing and construction are stiffer than I am used to and prefer. The canvas has a real body to it.

    This is interesting to me. When I compare it side by side to Corneliani and Brioni, the canvassing of my Benjamin suit seems to be the same if not slightly lighter/thinner than both. Obviously, compared with a 1/2 canvassed garment, there's a huge difference as the 1/2 canvassed will always be thicker, heavier, and more stiff. I wonder if it's because the Benjamin suit is fresh off the hanger and never even tried on before... Often times a fully canvassed jacket (unless you're talking about Kiton or Brioni or the like) takes a little time to "break in" and mold to your body. Out of curiosity, what brand suit are you wearing in the photos that you compared it to?


    The chest does not have as much fabric in it as I would like--I have suits on which the chest from the lapel to the arm scye is similarly proportioned, but I'd prefer a little extra fullness there.

    If I may ask, what suit brands fit you well - just so that I can have a better idea? I wanted to create a suit with the higher armhole, which can be a little bit tricky. For me, I wear a 40R with a 34 pant, and I have to have the whole front taken in, including the chest REDUCED a little bit. It's almost the same exact alterations I need for Isaia (which was what I was trying to model my suits after - but with slightly more shoulder padding and structure). It will be interesting to see how this fits others and the feedback I receive from them. I can very easily have another centimeter added to the chest area if I find this to be a common issue...

    There's just a hint of pulling at the button there; I had my arms lifted a little bit in that picture. Buttoning stance is a little on the high side, but I guess that is the current fashion. You can see in a pic below that it's just a smidge higher than on the 3-button suit I put on to compare

    I'm working on another model with a lower, more classic button stance, which doesn't have the high armhole and will be an "easier" fit for most men. My hope is that this model would fit most anyone.... we'll see...

    Thanks again for your honest review - would the review have been better if I doubled it and paid you another $1,000?!? Just kidding...

    Anyone else care to give it a try while we still have the promotion going? Please - if anyone has any questions feel free send me a message or you can email me directly: ben@ehaberdasher.com.
     
  3. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    This is interesting to me. When I compare it side by side to Corneliani and Brioni, the canvassing of my Benjamin suit seems to be the same if not slightly lighter/thinner than both. Obviously, compared with a 1/2 canvassed garment, there's a huge difference as the 1/2 canvassed will always be thicker, heavier, and more stiff. I wonder if it's because the Benjamin suit is fresh off the hanger and never even tried on before... Often times a fully canvassed jacket (unless you're talking about Kiton or Brioni or the like) takes a little time to "break in" and mold to your body. Out of curiosity, what brand suit are you wearing in the photos that you compared it to?


    I purposely left out the make of the one I compared it to so as not to muddle things, but it's an Isaia--that I bought, I believe, from eHaberdasher.com. [​IMG] It is fully canvased.

    It may well break in, and some may prefer the feel anyway. It's not a quality issue, just a taste question.




    If I may ask, what suit brands fit you well - just so that I can have a better idea? I wanted to create a suit with the higher armhole, which can be a little bit tricky. For me, I wear a 40R with a 34 pant, and I have to have the whole front taken in, including the chest REDUCED a little bit. It's almost the same exact alterations I need for Isaia (which was what I was trying to model my suits after - but with slightly more shoulder padding and structure). It will be interesting to see how this fits others and the feedback I receive from them. I can very easily have another centimeter added to the chest area if I find this to be a common issue...

    Isaias are probably the majority of my suits, and all of my favorites. That's why I'm always lobbying you to keep them in stock.



    Thanks again for your honest review - would the review have been better if I doubled it and paid you another $1,000?!? Just kidding...

    It can still be amended. You have my numbered account in Switzerland? [​IMG]
     
  4. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Re: more Isaia. We're working on it - no promises yet but I'm confident you will see more of it in the future on eHaberdasher.com! Same goes for Brioni - they're both in the works, but prices are probably going to be a little higher than in the past. We'll keep you posted!
     
  5. Irond Will

    Irond Will Senior member

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    I find it a pretty handsome suit. The shine on it is a little offputting, but I like the midnight-navy color and the fabric has a good texture to it - is it just inevitable that these 140s and above have a sheen? I like that it has a somewhat tighter chest for us slightly built guys. I'll need to size up my finances and see if I can find a decent locat tailor before I pull the trigger on it, but I'm leaning towards yes. Thanks for posting the pictures and analysis, grimslade.
     
  6. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I find it a pretty handsome suit. The shine on it is a little offputting, but I like the midnight-navy color and the fabric has a good texture to it - is it just inevitable that these 140s and above have a sheen? I like that it has a somewhat tighter chest for us slightly built guys. I'll need to size up my finances and see if I can find a decent locat tailor before I pull the trigger on it, but I'm leaning towards yes. Thanks for posting the pictures and analysis, grimslade.

    The shine is definitely more pronounced with the flash photos - I suppose it's hard to get an accurate depiction over the web. While there's a definite sheen, it's really not all that lustrous in my opinion. At the end of the day I suppose it's all relative and subjective...
     
  7. Gradstudent78

    Gradstudent78 Senior member

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    Well gents, the suits are available. Not all have been received yet - we should receive 2 more colors in the slimmer Gucci/Jil Sander fit (our "Lucente" model) in the next 10 days or so.

    How do the Lucente model measurements for a 40R compare to the ones you have? Do they have slimmer shoulders or higher armholes or are they about the same?
     
  8. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    How do the Lucente model measurements for a 40R compare to the ones you have? Do they have slimmer shoulders or higher armholes or are they about the same?

    The Lucente model is slimmer all throughout than the Maestro - maybe a 1/2 size slimmer. Still has the higher armhole. I finally tried on a 40R RLBL today - my Lucente is not quite as slim - a 40R in RLBL is almost like a 38R in most brands - it seems you have to size up at least 1 to 2 sizes for RLBL. I found RLBL to be uncomfortable, frankly.
     
  9. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Oh and by the way, just received word that we won't get the Lucente until after the new year... sorry. I'll be sure to extend the promotion until we have them in and you have an opportunity to purchase and try it out.
     
  10. kulata

    kulata Senior member

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    Oh and by the way, just received word that we won't get the Lucente until after the new year... sorry. I'll be sure to extend the promotion until we have them in and you have an opportunity to purchase and try it out.

    Do you have any deals on your Versace suits?
     
  11. Gradstudent78

    Gradstudent78 Senior member

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    The Lucente model is slimmer all throughout than the Maestro - maybe a 1/2 size slimmer. Still has the higher armhole. I finally tried on a 40R RLBL today - my Lucente is not quite as slim - a 40R in RLBL is almost like a 38R in most brands - it seems you have to size up at least 1 to 2 sizes for RLBL. I found RLBL to be uncomfortable, frankly.

    So looking at your sizing for the Maestro would a Lucente chest be about a 42 and the shoulders be about an 18?
     
  12. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    So looking at your sizing for the Maestro would a Lucente chest be about a 42 and the shoulders be about an 18?

    The chest is still close to a 43 (outside measurement across the chest), and the shoulders are just under 18". It's just a different, slimmer cut though. The armhole is a little bit smaller on the Lucente.
     
  13. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Do you have any deals on your Versace suits?

    Yes, the deal is $499.99 - that is our sale price. I think that's quite hard to beat. There is a free shipping code for SF members: SFFRSHIP (US orders only, minimum purchase $150).
     
  14. Gradstudent78

    Gradstudent78 Senior member

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    I must admit I've never actually tried on a RLBL suit - but I've seen and touched them and they look like they have a nice, slim cut. I have a feeling the Lucente may be more to your liking, but that model will not come in suit separates. Put it this way: I wear a 40R in both Maestro and Lucente; the Lucente fits me very well off the rack, requiring a nip at the waist, whereas for the Maestro I have to have the sides taken in a bit more. For the pants, the Maestro fits me perfection - only the hem, but the Lucente pants are a little snug and need to be let out because I have abnormally wide hips.

    I hope that helps...


    If you don't mind me asking, how wide are your hips? I might be in the same boat. I have 41'' hips and usually take a 40R suit
     
  15. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    If you don't mind me asking, how wide are your hips? I might be in the same boat. I have 41'' hips and usually take a 40R suit

    I actually have a 39" chest and 40.5" hips.
     
  16. Gradstudent78

    Gradstudent78 Senior member

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    I actually have a 39" chest and 40.5" hips.

    Do you think there is enough material to let them out to accomodate 41'' hips? Thank you for answering all my questions.
     
  17. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    Do you think there is enough material to let them out to accomodate 41'' hips? Thank you for answering all my questions.

    You should be fine - there's 2" to let out in the waist.
     
  18. eHaberdasher

    eHaberdasher Senior member Affiliate Vendor

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    I'm not sure if I should start a new thread for this, but I'll at least begin here...

    Here are a few pics of me in one of my Benjamin suits (navy shadowstripe in the Maestro model). While they're not flying off the shelves, we have sold well over a dozen of them. As you can see, this model does have a higher, more modern button stance, and a higher gorge lapel. This was intentional, and as others have stated before, may not be to every single persons liking. In a few months we will be introducing a lower button stance, slightly less fitted (armholes not quite as high) model. This model will be more classic in style - a bit more conservative, slightly more forgiving in fit, but of course will have all the features in a Benjamin suit (full canvas construction, and all the other details highlighted on our website).

    All comments are welcome. FYI I'm wearing a 40R/50R. I'm actually a 39R so I had the blades and sides taken in, sleeves shortened, functional sleeve buttons put in, and just the hem on the pants. It's slightly full in the chest for me still.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     

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